Gloyale

Right. That's the conclusion I came to. I still need to know if the torque converters and flexplates are the same from this early 4EAT to the newer ones from a legacy, impreza etc... still hopeful that some knows or else I'm gonna have to just tear into mine and see

The A/C evaperator is in between the blower and heater core, were the empty duct would be on a Non A/c. To remove it you have to disconnect the refrigerant lines and a couple bolts and it comes out like the empty duct does. But if you want to keep your a/c workin you then need to recharge. If your A/c doesn't work or has been removed than go for it without worry.

Do you have an early 4eat out of an EA car? Cause I think the 3spds used a slightly smaller converter according to my FSM. So the comparison would really be off unless you can compare an EJ and an EA 4spd. I'm affraid i have the hardest car to find info for. I can't even find it's excact configuration in the FSM. GL(not GL-10) turbocharged, Fulltime 4wd, 4spd auto. I only find Manual tranny GL's with the turbo/fulltime4wd. But yet I drive it every day and it's definatley not a conversion. It is the same 4spd as the GL-10 version used though.

This is unclear. Both are CTS's. Different types, but both for coolant temparture reading. The 2 wire one is what the ECU uses, very important. The one wire, smaller one is for the dash gauge.

The green connector is for setting timing and for d-check. Meaning Dealer. YOU DON'T REALLY NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THAT. There are TWO coolant tempature sensors! one used by the ECU(2 wires), one used by the dash board gauge(1 wire). The ECU one is very important to the way the car drives. Clean it's connectors well and hook it up. or replace it if you have to. You need it. The little one with a single wire only feeds the dash gauge so it doesn't affect driving a bit.(by the way if you take off that wire and touch it to ground the gauge should go to max. If it doesn't there is a break in the circuit or faulty gauge) OK now that both tempature sensors are hooked up you can read codes. When you turn the key to on w/ eng off, you will get flashed recent or current codes. This is the u-check mode. If all you get here is the 21 code it probably means your 2 wire (ecu) tempature sensor is bad. The read mode displays all codes triggered since the last time codes were cleared. You want to use the read connector under the dash.single pole connector, Usually black but your's is white? odd. any way plug it in. Key to on w/ eng off. now you will get all past codes. If you ran your vehicle with stuff unhooked or altered at all it will show codes from it. Perhaps this is how you got all those other codes? To clear codes, plug in both the read connector under dash, and the green "test connector" under hood by wiper motor. Start the car and run it over 2000 rpms for 40 secondss or more till "ECS" light comes on. Disconnect both and drive for awhile at all speeds(possible) then recheck in u-check. if no codes then check read mode. If there is then a code, it probably means a bad connection or an intermittent short in that circuit. check all connections. So now that i've gone through all that, Your drivability problem sounds alot like timing being off. Check timing with a timing light, and the green "test" connector hooked up. Also it would be good to take outer ends of the timing covers off and check that you didn't break the pass. side one. The car will still run on the two drivers side cylinders but terribly lumpy and weak. look for rubber dust and signs of belt slippage or siezeure. That would also result in the timing being off

I have read a few post about the ea81 conversion to SPFI using EA82 parts. My question is about the distributor. I read a good write-up that showed actually modifying an EA82 disty by drilling, switching gears, shaving for fit and what not. I want to know if it's possible to go the other route and just switch the guts out of the EA82 disty into the body of the EA81 disty. Unhook the vac advance, etc. What do you guys think? (I can hear the "rabble rabble" now)

I've got a couple solutions for ya. Have you got A/C, and the mechanical fan that goes with it? If you do you may want to ditch it. Non A/c models use just the electric radiator fan. Second, cleaning off the heater core is a good idea. If you don't have A/c it's easy. Remove the plastic duct between the blower on passenger side and the heater unit in the center. heater core and flap are visible there. Also in these Subies the "fresh air" intake is always open via a vaccum controlled flap any time the heating system is on. You can recirculate cabin air only by disconnecting and pugging this vac. hose. It's easy. open glove box and squeeze the sides to open it past it's stops. Now you can see the blower box and stuff. There is a plastic tube connecting to a rubber vac line goin to the box. put a vac cap over the end of plastic line and Bam! no more artic air to try to heat. I live in Wisconsin and I plug that vac line every winter.(make sure you open a window or your side vents occasionally) With the gauge reading cold as well I would guess it's a whole engine issue though. Not the performance of the heater system which you said works good at idle and when engine gauge shows hot. Also do you have the right Radiator? maybe you got one for a Turbo?

Elite subaru master eh? uhhh then you would know that Loyales DO have distributors as did all EA series engines. I wouldn't have called you on it if it said "subie newbie" as a title, but elite master....?

You should replace both camshaft end seals and the front main seal. Also it is a good time to get the oil pump seals as well. a note about both the water pump and oil pump bolts: Get a tap for them and clean up the threads before reasembly. And don't go too deep with that tap. Don't over tighten the bolts either. They are small and the alloy block doesn't hold threads all that well. 15-22 ft/lbs. tops. I know a book may say more but believe me you don't want to strip them. That said don't be afraid, it's an easy job.

Hot enough to stop running? That's frickin bad. you may have blown both head gaskets in which case you would get these numbers. put a little engine oil down the spark plug hole and test again, if it goes up you got bad rings. If it doesn't you may have blown the head gaskets. Possibly a stuck or burnt valve but that would be odd in all cylinders. But really if you get a motor that hot it's bound to be toast. Why didn't you shut it down before it got that hot is the question you should ask.

I live in an area that is both cold as snot and has emmissions testing. And My 86 carbed GL wagon had to have it's egr valve replaced because it was clogged. THIS CAUSED IT TO FAIL EMISSIONS WITH HIGH NOx!!! Since a CLOGGED EGR is the same as NO EGR then I think you are WRONG about your car passing just fine. Glad to hear your OK with poisoning the world for our kids and their kids. Oh and there aren't any heat risers on the top end except for the hot air intake tube up from the y-pipe. The clutch fan is for cooling not heating. Dude you don't make sense.

They also made standard GL models WITH turbo and the 4EAT "full time" tranny. If you are getting torque bind in those it is the duty solenoid c either failed or disconnected(shorted)

Wait, let me get this straight. Your Check engine light comes on like normal at start and then goes off(normal). Isn't that what you want? or did you like that little red light mocking you?

I've done that fix before and it only held so long because 3/8 is not much larger than the original holes and you basically just catch whatever is left of the original threads. It definatley works though. The better option and still very cheap is to tap the hole out to 7/16 properly and then use new studs or bolts to your preference. Studs are the more pro way but if you don't plan on tearin the exhaust back off often then bolt's work. But every time you remove/reinstall the threads get weaker in those soft alloy heads.

no no. What i mean is get my EJ from an automatic. Use it's flexplate, no mods to the crankshaft bolt pattern, just leave it on. Will it's OUTER holes where it attaches to the Torque Converter line up with the older EA torque converter?

I have seen issues with the shielding around some of the wires, like some of the ones for the MAF have, shorting out the inner wires it is shielding. If you have a Factory service manual or at least the proper wiring diagram with connector details you can unplug the maf and the ecu and check continuity of the wires between. How did this thread get in here again?

I see alot of info on adapting the EJ to fit on an ea82 MT. Redrilling of flywheel holes and such. But what about to an automatic? Would an original EJ flexplate bolt to the EA automatics torque converter. I am specifically wondering about the "Full Time" 4wd automatic. (early 4EAT). Are the torque converters the same size/bolt pattern? This would be good for the website if anyone knows or finds out.

Someone mentioned it but for ease of availability in the future you don't want the 25 spline frnt axle stubs. you will want a dual range tranny from a non turbo car with the 23 spline. Otherwise you'll have to get the 25 spline axles and they are hard(er) to find and more expensive. Unless you are planning on REALLLLY big wheels or monster HP the 23 spline axles are fine.