Gloyale

Doesn't have to be original, but should be grade A quality brand name. I personally only use Mitsuboshi or Bando. Continental also seem to be good but I've seen some where the alignment stripes where not right on the proper part of the tooth. But definitely stay away from any cheap belts. Especially if it comes with a whole kit from China or Philippines or whatever.

Count splines on the stubs to determine if it's a 3.9 or 3.7 23 splines, would be from an 85-87 Carbed GL (no "neutral" signal switch) 25 splines would be from an 85,86 MPFI Turbo car. 3.7 ratio .....except then it would have a neutral switch for the MPFI, so I would say it's 99% likely a 3.9 ratio. Unless the rear transfer section has been swapped. Then it could be a 3.7 turbo still if it's got 25 spline stubs

Incorrect Ratio. Legacy is 4.11, outback 4cyl is 4.44 You can swap the rear diff too, but the TCU will not like seeing different speed/tach ratios than it expects. It will throw codes and possibly torque bind.

Do you have the green connectors hooked up? If not the ECU will keep adjusting while you are adjusting and you never get it set. If it's that far off of 20, you may need to reset the dirty one notch. then do the timing again.

98 Forester and put a proper rebuild from the crank up 90-95 2.2 in it.

Walkover clearance. with proper driveline, trans mount and exhaust you can have a high belly and hence make it over much steeper humps without having to launch it to get over.

Some of those hoses have "orifice" pellets in them to limit vacuum to certain items. Make sure you fish them out of the old lines and reinsert in the new ones.

They do that to avoid patent and copyright issues from different manufacturers. Parts companies in many cases legally must make each Auto companies parts different from each other to avoid patent issues.

Trade-in is for chumps. They will low-ball your trade, then resell it for 3x as much. And you'll end up spending a lot more on a new car, just to have it depreciate the minute you drive it off the lot. Way more expensive in the long run. The cheapest car is almost always the one you already own. If the car is meeting your needs, then give it the love it needs and keep it.

Aisin, Atsugi, or Paraut water pumps can be ordered from many many places besides Napa or dealer. And they are usually within $20 price of the cheapest ones. I have no problem with junk parts. I Don't use them. So I don't need to sue anybody. Besides.......that's ridiculous......sue a company for a $50 dollar part??? A court filing would cost more than that to begin with. If you can't afford to buy good parts, you certainly can't sue ANYBODY. To answer your original question.......Just buy the damn good pump. or not......but don't harass us when we don't give you reassurance for bad parts.

EA81 rack has a female threaded boss that the inner tired threads into. EA82 rack is opposite. Male stub that the Tierods thread onto. you could cut a bolt down, thread it into the EA81 rack to create a "stub" for the EA82 tiers to thread into. Still not sure you'll end up with correct angles though. It is important that the rack itself end to end is the same width as the width between control arm pivots. If not you will get incorrect toe in during turning.

My 84 3at kept chewing up governor gears. the drive gear in the trans is shot. So I removed the Governor valve body from the governor main body. I installed a plate with a groove that allows full pressure to 3rd gear. (full open flow between the 2 ports) Now I can drive by selecting 1,2 or D with the shifter. Although sometimes if I really need 1st, I need to let it idle in "N" first for a while then shift quickly to 1st. annoying, but functional and easy to fabricate at home. Just need a plate with 2 holes for bolts and a groove for fluid to pass between governor ports. It's worth noting that a 3AT from a 4wd loyal would be a nearly direct bolt in. Swap rear diff to 3.9 to match but all else would be direct whereas a 5spd swap involves a lot more (clutch pedal and cable, wiring of 4wd solenoids, mounting carrier bearing, shifter, crossmember, etc....)

Tap for US standard 7/16 head stud. Leaves more meat for a Helicoil later should it strip again.

Someone tapped that hole too deep. Water should not come out there.

2000 went to a multilink rear end but it's still all steel. No aluminum crossmember ever.

So where's your evidence? You started this thread asking a question..... And now your rejecting the experienced, informed consensus of several of the forums most knowledgable and experienced members? (in a very rude and and unjustifiably smug manner to boot) Maybe you should have kept your "Yap shut" if you don't want to hear the answers to YOUR own questions. The pump you linked to clearly is garbage. Want evidence? It's supplied with a PAPER gasket, and no thermostat gasket or rubber "L" seal for the side edge. A good Aisin or Paraut pump will come with an OE style metal gasket, and the thermo gasket and "L" seal. If the pump comes with a paper gasket, that's a clear sign that it doesn't meet OE standards and was made to sucker saps with a low cost. You get what you pay for. You probably would be better off with a used OE pump and a new metal gasket......I do that for my EJ22 non-interference wheeler. Not for my wife or customers or anyone that actually needs to not breakdown or any interference engine.

Do not EVER rotate the engine in reverse. Do not pull allow a manual trans vehicle to roll backwards while in gear, same thing. At least not with any oil in the passages. The reason is that you can blow out the retaining ring of the oil pump bypass, and suck in the o-rings that seal the oil passages. Oi pumps are "positive displacement" meaning that if rotates it WILL pump oil, with great hydraulic force. Run it backwards, and it will try to suck oil out of the passages. Collapsing the filter medium, sucking in on O-rings that are supposed to be under pressure not suction. Never seen actual damage to an EJ oil pump. But I've seen it many times on EA oil pumps where the oil filter bypass ball and spring seat fall out when you take off the oil filter. This allows oil to permanently bypass the filter.

What year is your SPFI setup from. 87 model SPFI computer has 2 pins for disty wiring reversed versus all later models. But it is easier to swap pins at the disty connector to correct and use later dirty with ECU or vice versa. IIRC you switch the position of the Green and White wires at the disty connector. they are diagonal from each other in the connector. Just a Thought.......probably not your issue if it ever ran with your setup.

you can swap the EA82 inner cup onto the EA81 shaft. Same with the outer as well if your EA82 shafts are double DOJ style. If the EA82 shaft has the fixed outer end CV (87+) the outer end won't swap.

I do believe this OP's car is still an EJ 2.5 (EJ253) First year FB25 in the Forester is 2011. So, no need to split the case to replace rings. Simply pull the heads and pull the wrist pins and pistons come right out.

Spider gears in the center diff will be ruined. They are not meant for constant high speed spinning against the thrust washers. I'd plan on replacing the center diff (rear section of trans)

code 5 is model designator. No codes present when it flashes 5.

Likely someone has already added a "repair" sleeve with oversized TO bearing in the past. There is no sleeve from the factory, the TO rides right on the aluminum quill. You could take it off and see if the OE trans quill could be cleaned up and it should work. Emery cloth and siliglyde are your friends If not, might need to get another "repair" kit with sleeve and oversized TO.

Could be the interlock with the auto trans. Not recognizing that car is in "P" or not disengaging if it is recognizing. You can pull covers off the column and remove the little interlock solenoid. 2 screws......never have to worry about it again.

I go even further and have my flywheels machined to .810 step.