Gloyale

Always replace water pump, cogged roller, 2 smooth rollers and T-belt, crank seal and Cam seals all at once on interference engine. Not worth the risks. Belts rarely fail, it's the rollers and WP that take them out and cause valve damage Paraut (OEM) or Atsugi (japanese) Water pump is best. Metal gasket Koyo or NSK rollers. GMB is worthless junk. Gates also cheap chinese garbage

If you are expecting it to run with the intake boot off it won't. Boot needs to be in place, all hoses hooked up with Airflow meter working.

For god's sake please don't try to take a F&&*%ng picture while driving ridiculously stupid speeds in a 30 year old death trap. You are putting others at risk and trying to make it sound cool. 95 mph is reckless. Dumb BTW.....Elevation will also have an effect FI engines....not just carbed. Any N/A engine will suffer from decreased Oxygen at altitudes. Also, My elevation is 200 ft. The entire west is not onto of a mountain.

This is why I will never drive in NewJersey or anywhere east rockies. True though, you would need to be revved out to 6k rpms to hit 95 with an EA82 engine.

You could also use old "male stubs" from an EA diff and then stock EA axles. You'd need to mill a grove in a set of old stubs to take a circle but the spline count and size should be the same.

Carbed. See my above post.

Fuel Injected Ea82 engines w/ optical distributor have the screw. Carbed models are push on/notched

Check that the little rubber end cap over the throttle cable hasn't fallen off and gotten jammed up in the linkage

Check the driveline to make sure it's not rubbing against the heatsheild or exhaust. Front diff problem would be directly corresponding to the speed. If it's just corresponding to throttle and doesn't change DIRECTLY with speed it aint the diff. Also if it rumbles at idle it's not the driveline or the diff.......possibly could be exhaust shields though. Would have to be from an H6 non-vdc. 4.11 ratio without spin on filter (remote filter under drivers fender)

remember too, that when you push the wheels out......they "swing" forward and aft more during the turn so you are further out from the framerail, but more likely to rub the front of the fender arch, and possibly and more concerningly, stuffing against the rear of the wheel...espescially during compression. Oh and yeah the added width will give rocks a larger lever to act on........AKA...... bump steer......... will rip the steering wheel out of your hand and break your thumbs first time you hit catch a big root or rock with the outside edge.

You're gonna be bummed when you bend those.

5 flashes is a model identifier. SPFI 49st MT it means you have no codes. Although, if you have only hooked up the connectors, and not actually run a full cycle of Over 2k rpms for 40 sec. and drive forward at least 1mph.........blah blah..... in d-check or read mode (green/ white connectors respectively) you will not get the full story. Check that the rotor actually turns when cranking.....Could be broken drivers side t-belt.

The great thing about Subaru EJ engines is that the pistons are easily pulled and the rings replaced by simply pulling the heads. No need to disturb the rods or mains. They are robust and if you've changed your oil regularly are likely still in good shape. So head gaskets, rings, resurface?, and reassemble. Baja's will be like Brats in 10-20 years.......Crazy valuable and collectable. The Baja already is somewhat like that now.......Definately "Worth it"

My guess would that it would work. But I wouldn't do it unless it was a last/only resort, no other option. Some thought though........ I would use a washer thin engouh to leave a gap on each side of at least .20~30 mm. You don't want constant rubbing.....that's the reason for the spring washer in the first place. Also, it would be best if it was a very hard face washer. it will be coated in oil....so it shouldn't grind. If you use mild steel or brass/copper it probably will grind down though. Best would be to get correct spring washers.

If the engine is in the car still you will have to remove the exhaust, unbolt the motor mounts and pitch stopper, and lift the engine about 1-2 inches off the crossmember.

IF you've got an OBD I harness, like 90-94 Legacy, you will have to lengthen or reroute some wire through firewall. Origianlly in the Legacy the, Crank, Cam, and Knock sensor wires, as well as the O2 connector came through the firewall rather than with the rest of the bundle through the fender. For all my swaps now I just use a 2" hole saw right through the fiewall and reuse a firewall grommet from the EJ harness. run the whole bundle through there. The spot where a RHD steering column would go is a good spot and then mount ECU behind Glovebox

pics of the Dry sump?

Take the boots off and compare. They are different. Tell me how your tires are wearing after a 10,000 Kilometers.

SPFI is all Bolt on with 2 notable exceptions. 1) Disty gear from ea81 needs swapped to EA82 disty. And EA82 disty needs one ear cut off and the bolt hole opend up to fit into the EA81 engine. 2) IAC body needs flipped over to clear disty. "U" bend hose needed to adapt after flip. Read GD's writeup, if it still exists.

Not really true about needed to waterproof entire elec. and exhaust blah blah...... I've driven through deep, deep water where my exhaust and entire engine including Alt and Coil were submerged. For sustained distance across rivers and flooded areas. Definitely would have been swamped with a stock air intake setup, even with 6" lift. The car fills up with water inside driving around, but keeps running. Exhaust pushes out as long as you keep 'er running, and good plug wires with lots of silicon di-elec and an EJ22 at least will run fully submerged. You can watch vids of subies wading with exhaust well underwater all over the net, engines too in many cases. As long as it can breath, it'll run. Hence snorkel. I used a floor drain fitting sealed into the back of my airbox, and ABS pipe from there.

Yes it works because the 99 ourback still techniucally is Phase I engine management. 99 Forester this would not work because the SOHC 2.5 is Phase II management and would require Injector wiring mods and IAC is not comparible etc......

That car will be 25 splines on the cv to trans side.

You MUST use EA81 or EA82 flywheel to use an EA transmission. PERIOD. EJ flywheel WILL NOT WORK. Also, we are talking about ovalling out the factory holes, not a very big modification. Done thousands of times around the world for 20+ years. Also, these motors have 130 hp, not 600. Your fears are baseless.

CV axles

Adjusting rear alignment is not do ne by bending anything. It's the rotation/orientation of the swing arm vs. the trailing arm that determines it. The large piece of wood is to leverage one arm against the other before tightening hte 3 bolts. You are correct most alignment shops will not do this. they will claim no adjustment to be made but obviously, there is. I believe that scan is one I posted nearly 10 years ago that's been reposted. From the subaru '86 EA82 FSM