Gloyale

Okay....so this is general question, really more of a survey. Has anyone experienced a complete lack of shifting in a 4EAT equipped 2008+ Legacy after a TCU software "update"? The car in question is a 2008 legacy sedan w/4eat. With a recently installed Subaru optional Remote start setup. I physically installed the remote start kit. Excactly according to instructions down to last detail. The key fobs were "talking" correctly to the box. Put the unit through the Idle speed programming. Checked all key fobs chirped the system, brake pedal canceled, etc......Every step of the instructions followed and checked out good. The only step I did not complete to finalize was the "interlock transmitter" code program. To those not familiar, this model and all newer have a RF chip in the key, so that even if the ignition is physically turned, the engine will not start without the proper key with RF chip matching that car. The reciever is built into the ignition cylinder. Now, obviously for remote start there is no key present....that's were the interlock transmitter comes in....it has an antenna that loops around the ignition cylinder, and after programmed emits a mimic signal of the RF chip to allow starter engagement. Basically fools the system into thinking there is a key present. This programming can only be done using Subaru Select Monitor computer/softwware (SSMIII) which I don't have..also requires all keys. and the RF code.....which we do have since the car was purchased by us brand new. So....we make an appointment with delaership where the remote starter kit was purchased. Appointment 1 week out....no problem, car starts and drives normaly with no CEL or other issues when started with regular key. Drive car for one week in the mean time....no problems whatsoever.........drop it off for programming on a friday......when we get the car back wednesday of the following week.....the remote start has been programed and now fully functions. Here's were it gets weird. For some reason, the dealership says their tech "had to" reflash the TCU software with an update. And now the AT temp light flashes, CEL and CRUISE, traction control, and ABS lights all on. Dealer says "it's just the lights, car drives fine" but claims both the TCU and the transmission valve body need replaced....cost, $1950 dollars!!!! He then say's if the TCU does fail further the car will not drive and we will be stuck "like it's in Nuetral or park" I know this to not be the case. Default from loss of electronic control is 3rd gear mechanical operation...but I don't bother to correct him....I just want to get the car out of there. I am very suspect. we take the car home......from the first minute driving I can tell the trans is in "limp" mode. 3rd gear only. I confirm this with "sport mode" trying to manually select gears to no avail. So the car is screwed up bigtime. I am refraining from posting any further information on the dealer, the alterations to they made that deviate from subaru install instruction, and a few other infuriating tidbits until the SOA representative I called can try to remedy the situation through said dealer. (SOA rep listened attentively, and seemed genuinely interested in helping) So for now I am just wondering if anyone else has had trans issues immediately following a "TCU" software update or a remote start install. I will note that I've confirmed with other, trusted dealer techs that TCU update should not have been needed for a simple RF interlock transmitter programming. Discuss

Changing control arm pivots without changing the inner tie rod pivots will mean you toe will constantly change with suspension travel. Could be nearly undrivable. I think you are overthinking(or under thinking?) that part. Get it driving first. Do you want to fabricate all summer or do you want to wheel?

Spring with star around is upside down. The curved part is to hold the ball at the bottom from bouncing up. #1 goes in the hole you think. #2 not sure. Was it in the carb or part of the kit? #3. Steel replacement for nylon ball # 4. Could be from inside the choke pull off diaphragm?

Well, only if it was below minimum and "starving" to begin with. Once the level is in correct range, adjusting the float bowl level higher will do nothing until it's way too high, then it "riches". But not in a mixed way. Just dumps fuel past the air bleeds into the horns unmixed. This is flooded not rich mixture.

All optical dizziness spfi and mpfi turbo or non are the same from 88-94 87 also are the same guts but different connector

Post 90 is as you describe the ADM to be. It is only the 88/89 that have the weird "low shoulder" key hole 2piece setup There is no threaded boss on the upper rail on pre-90 models. So no retrofit

No. A non turbo 86 2wd gl10 would be spfi An 85 non turbo gl10 would be carbed

it's all grounds. But the wires int the other 2 connectors have a completely fDifferent arrangement. 1 wire of 1 of them is in the same spot Get a correct intake harness

Well unplugging things in this case won'T show you much. okay, let's clarify...there are 2 systems that affect idle on the ea82t. There is an aav, (aux air valve) mounted to the top of the thermostats housing. This has a 2 wide connector, that powers a heating element. This element when heated closes the air passage. Kinduv like an electric choke setup on a carb. So unplugging that could actually increase idle. To test if this is the culprit system, simply clamp the hose from it to the throttle body after warmup......if idle drops, you have a faulty aav that is sticking open. I have simply plugged thse guys off on a few cars, since they are hard to find working ones. There is also, a single wire, FICD solenoid....mounted on back of tb. Sticks straight up. This solenoid increases idle by about 300~500 rpm for air conditioner use. This one is probably not related. But this one if you unplug it would drop the idle if it had been active.

Recessed screw in the throttle body, visible if looking straight down is the idle adjust. Smaller recessed screw in tb is visible from the rear. This is the high idle adjust. However, if you are using the same old manifold from the car, the issue is likely an air leak. Although, an air leak on a Maf based system will usually cause other running issues.

Over here the over the shoulder belt for rear passengers came up out of the trim in 88,89 models. (Before that the rears had lap belt only) This setup used a keyhole slot in the regular lap belt buckle. So one had to attach the lap belt, then hook the non retracting over the shoulder belt to the lap buckle. Really annoying when folding rear seat back up and down. Also hassle to connect and adjust. Especially for children, who are the only ones it will fit anyhow. In 90, they moved the mounting to above the rear glass, with the retractor above the rear fender well. This is a much better setup in my mind.

Yes you need a 92 intake harness. And if the Intake is from a manual 90 car, you will need a 92-94 iac also.

The center diff can be swapped without removing the trans...just remove the driveline and shifter assembly, and remove the rear cover on trans and center diff comes right out and can be inspected/replaced.

I don't know how old your mother is. But I know mine is getting up there and regularly does things like leaving door slightly open, or keys in/on.

You're looking at it backwards. The rear is the rear. Closest in the pic. There is no engine in the front. This frame looks setup for regular lift, no t-case.

It's a single barrel carter. 83 models only. Not a hitachi. A very odd duck. Hitachi would be an upgrade and even to add a weber you would need the hitachi manifold. It's not electronic in the slightest. Don't bother thinking you're gonna make this thing a hot rod. Not without an EJ swap. Not a good platform for "performance". There is nothing offered for suspension. But look around on here and you will find lots of ways to "one off" modify things using parts for other cars. Most all will have to be modified/fabricated.

There are 4 emulsion tubes. No you must remove the top,of the carb to access them.

Either way, he will have a carb. So he should develope skills and understanding relating to carbs. Throwing new parts on because you don't understand something is a recipe for further frustration.

Brass tubes. About 3mm in diameter or less. And yes they do have holes in them. The idea is that fuel is pulls up from bottom while air is pulled in through top, this mixes and "emulsifiers" the fuel and air into a mix that is then atomized in then Venturi horns.

Bad battery. Heat is the worst for batteries, contrary to popular belief that cold is bad. Heat is worse.

This is all Subaru suspension. There is no VW stuff anywhere on this. Adams front ifs is Nissan 720. Mine, the XT, is '86 trooper.

This sound right. But the rotor should point more towards the master cyl. Not straight back. It rotates a bit as you install Also, and don't be offended, but did you hook up the disty wiring? Correctly?

This is wrong. The pro portioning valve does not split the line like a T. It's 2 lines in, 2 lines out. It balances pressure from both circuits. Subaru uses a dual diagonal system, so each rear wheel uses a separate line from each other. If you just used a t then you either connected the circuits together, or you plugged one off. As long as it doesn't leak it will work but you have uneven braking action. No really the way to do it. Hillholder can be replaced with a T as it splits one line to go to the F.left, R.right line.

+1

There are 4 emulsion tubes. If you don't know that then you didn't clean them. They are under the top of the carb. 2 are under brass caps, the other 2 come all the way to the top. You need to unscrew them, then clear them out. Garauntee this is a huge part of the problem.