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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    Yes.
  2. Gloyale
    That's not for a carved setup at all. Sapper, the high idle screw is on the back Side of the linkage, inner part of the linkage piece. 2000 is kinda normal for cold high idle though if it doesn't come down quickly you may want to check the heating coil inside the choke hosing is intact, and getting power and warming. If all else fails, file the locating notch off the choke housing and rotate it counter clockwise.
  3. Gloyale
    92-94 are 3.9 final
  4. Gloyale
    There is no reason to "custom mount the ea pump. EJ pumps work fine. In fact, Early EJ pumps are the same unit with a different reservoir. This has been done literally hundreds of times. Just get a set of unmolested lines, ditch whatever you've cobbled together, and do it the simple way that works.
  5. Gloyale
    You found it already. There are no more new parts for those cars. Not corner markers anyhow. Ever price "restoration" of a car before? $75 is just a drop in the bucket if that's your goal.
  6. Gloyale
    Remove the drivers side outer t belt cover. Lin up the engine to tdc with the dot on the cam pulley 45 degrees down and out. (4:30 o'clock.) this will assure that you are on compression stroke at tdc. Now drop in the disty with rotor pointing at #1.
  7. Gloyale
    No will not work. You need a matching one from a sedan. If your car is has variable intermittent wipers, you need a switch that has the variable function. Would only have that if it's an Ls or Gt. Regular base or L model will just be one speed intermittent.
  8. Gloyale
    Dealer added. But using the steering wheel mounted buttons like the GL-10. The big difference in the 2 systems is that the GL-10 uses a vacuum pump, while the dealer add on (made by FoMoCo, ford btw) uses a large round reservoir told hold engine vacuum for the system. But both use the same buttons on the wheel/under defrost. The "DL" (later Loyales)system however use one panel to the right of the steering wheel for all buttons. Probably originally designed because the DLs different steering wheel.
  9. Gloyale
    These cars are 25~30 years old. Lots of stuff likely to been done. Skid plate and 2 tone on Loyales would have been a dealer added option but probably done later in there lives. Possibly by the first or second owners as upgrades.
  10. Gloyale
    I used first gen legacy springs on my EJ'd wheeler. You are planning on adding subframe blocks too right? 3 inch of just strut lift will not work for ea81
  11. Gloyale
    You can use Ig relay from any 90,s Subaru. They are way up in the upper left corner of dash. If the ECU has power to all needed pins then the relay is not the problem. Check the grounding bolt on the intake manifold. All ECU grounds go there.
  12. Gloyale
    Green plug left of colum with 4 wires? That's likely the fuel pump relay and someone has added a jumper to bypass it.
  13. Gloyale
    1. GL optional fog light button would go there. The fog switch you have is fromthe center console of an XT. 2. Just a clip. Cars with trunk light don't need it as the liner is held by the light. Cars without light have the clip. 3. Not a switch. Just a bumper to help dampen the closing and assist in the "pop" open. Switch for the dash light is in the latch assembly in the rear gate. 4. They all had the cover....but most have been lost as they are a bit tricky to get back in correct. Skid plate was optional. I think Loyales didn't get them after 90 5. Cruise, you've got the dealer add on cruise from a DL. They did this for DLs because the steering wheel mounted buttons won't fit on the DL wheel. GL-10s where the only ea82s that got factory cruise. All others are dealer add on. Though The GL add on kit used steering wheel mounted buttons (and one in the dash for main "on" below defrost button") 6. Clip is to hold the buckle from slipping down to the bottom of the belt. The one with the sewn in button is from Loyales..the sliding clip type is older GL or DL.
  14. Gloyale
    The spare rim is stamped with a "T" code for temporary just like the tire. I don't think the quality of steel is the problem. It's the. Ousting of a wide tire on such a narrow rim. Too much sidewall bubble. Very prone to riding on the sidewall or even rolling the bead in hard corners. Might work fine for deep snow, backwoods slow driving.....other than that is takin too big a risk on roads where other people are driving. As mentioned, insurance would not cover the accident and in a worst case if you kill someone in an accident, knowingly installed these wheels and used them in the course of such tragedy, you could be held for manslaughter or even negligent homicide.
  15. Gloyale
    Slightly maybe. But the way to really make it easy is to unbolt exhaust at the heads and one motor mount at a time. After each mount is unbolted, jack under oil pan and the engine will tilt up on one side making that valve cover easier to remove.
  16. Gloyale
    Depends on the model because of brake differences. Impreza = 13" wheels so maybe a 205/6013 or 215/55/13 if you could find them Legacy L = 14" wheels so whatever if you can find a 50 or 40 series that would work Legacy Lsi or GT = 15" wheels.....should be able to find 50 and 40 and maybe a 35 series tire.
  17. Gloyale
    No, the center hole in the rim will not fit over the bumps on the hub. What I do is bolt it up loosely, mark the 4 points on the circle where it hits, then use a Dremel with a cylindrical stone to take out about 1mm off of the edge of the hole. After doing this the wheels will fit on fine. Did this for a set of Mazda wheels for my XT. After tires mounted and balanced I had no vibrations at all driving even at 90+ mph. The Nissan rims pictured above do not require this. Those are my favorite 14s to use....with the Mazdas being a close second
  18. Gloyale
    +1 Are you using factory type lines or did you cut/splice/clamp other type of hose in there? If always use factory lines and never had any problem like this(either a combo of EJ upper/ea lower or just full ea lines with a little bending to mate to the EJ pump)
  19. Gloyale
    Yeah the Mazdas need a few mm taken out of the center holes and then they fit fine. Just a few mm at the 4 points where the hubcenter ridges hit.
  20. Gloyale
    Just spoke to him on the phone and confirmed this was the issue. He should be driving in the next few minutes if he can do the trick of installing that piece of crap screw sideways and hidden under the rotor. Joe you gotta EJ that beaach too!
  21. Gloyale
    Or it could be slight piston slap which may pose no real imminent problem depending on severity. Described as "ticking". Much more likely to be piston slap than if it was a knocking. To the OP. I would have the oil screen at the pressure valves on each head cleaned/replaced. Could just be vale train noise from lack of pressure to the AVCS( one intake valve per cyl has variable lift activated by oil pressure)
  22. Gloyale
    We'll since you are so familiar you should have no problem figuring out what you want to do for a frame. For the record though. The rear is a triangulated 4 link. The upper pivots are close but separate. To look at a 3 link look at late model Isuzu trooper setup.
  23. Gloyale
    Tie the front of the skid/lower rad support to the recovery hooks. Strongest point. Otherwise. Th Lower rad support will just keep pushing up every time the plate hits the ground. Been there, done that
  24. Gloyale
    I agree with monstaru just pit it on a cj or a Zuki frame........an older Toyota could work too. But if you are gonna go custom go with a 3 or 4 link... Easiest would be early v8 grand Cherokee axles mid 90's. They are Dana 44's with 4 link front and rear.
  25. Gloyale
    Yeah, those are the parts everyone needs cause they all break! Truly do hope you have good luck though.
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