Gloyale

VSS and/or neutral switch

Agreed. Could be done with 1/2 flat stock with 2 sets of holes.

Nah. Drill the rims with no tire using a drill press. Much more accurate and easier than hand drill. Take the wheels to the shop and get tires mounted. Put them on the car yourself.

Compatible up to about 2007 I think. So maybe newer one possible If he can do the work himself the bearings and seal are only about 200~300 bucks.

Check the throttle cable adjustment

Very rare to find 15+ year old trans around WA that's got less than 100k Most subies out here get the miles piled on. And folks buy up the good parts to keep them on the road for longer since the bodies don't rust out.

So it's a GL not a DL. Would have been single range 4wd in 79 There are dual range 4spds...starting in 80 iirc..... But no 5spd 4x4. Are you sure it's a 5spd? Again, look at the bellhousing, because unless the engine has been swapped too, the 5spd will not bolt up to a 1979 brat engine (ea71, 1600)

That's wrong. Bulk of spring should be outer. And ea82 strut tops (triangle). Are symmetrical.. If yours is not its bent. There is no difference in how they mount no matter how you spin it. I've had lots of trouble with incorrect listings. The Sachs front struts I order where just plain made wrong for the left side...both tabs in wrong spot. Seems stut makers have got specs for ea81 and ea82 all screwed up and confused....gotta be smarter than the parts guys ya know...

Feel pro sometimes uses OEM. Other times not. I generally don't like them Ishino and stone can be ordered through WorldPac or IMC.......wholesalers so call your buddy with a shop to order them

Yeah the car should really have been faster. Competition should be Nissan 370z and Mazda RX-8. Cars with much more hp. Really needs turbo or 6 cyl option

For 2.2 maybe For 2.5 OEM only Ishino and Stone packaged HG sets will have OEM gaskets in them.

Depends on eh yet extent of the damage. If the bearing has spun too badly in the case, the case is shot.....possibly you can "peen" the bearing landing and get it to clamp the bearing again, done that a few times. Sometimes need to replace the c-shaped spacer collar at the rear if it' ground up. If any damage has occurred to the gearsset it's toast. If the he damage is not too bad, repairing is a better option since then you know what's in there.

6 lug rims can be red rilles 3 times.....if you screw up. Also it's easier to find another rim than it is to find another hub. They will never ever make more of them and more are going to scrap all the time. You can buy brand used and new rims all day long and that's not changing Every 6 lug hub red rill I've ever seen has a few off angle studs......esescially the fronts where the 4 red redrilled holes land on an uneven part of he the hub. Plus buying 24 new studs and lug nuts isn't cheap.....would cost as much as 2 rims from wrecker. Also cast is more prone to cracking from stress of extra holes than the rolled steel wheels. And especially wiout a lift, you just might want to go back to the 13" again some point.....impossible once you redrilled hub And also if your hub strips(which happens).....you will need to drill another before you can repair Drill the rims My $.02

There are lots more wires that are needed for proper operation. At a minimum fuel pump output, starter signal, Batt, Ig switched, and ground for EJ ig. Relay But the ones in that diode pack are as follows. 2 diodes in pack each with 2 wires, an "in" and an "out" Diode 1 Yellow = Ig. Switched wire...should be tied into the EA, B/W wire at either the coil or the alt. L.green = out through the diode to EJ ECU and Ig. Relay Diode 2 Red/blue = fan relay trigger from ECU(-) White/red = output trigger to fan relay(-)

It's either been modified. Or it's a 4spd d/r. That's what a 79 brat would have. Ever actually used 5th gear on it? Maybe someone just screwed a 5spd knob onto it. Look at the starter, if it's in the very center/top of he bell housing, it's the original type 4spd trans. Oh yeah, if the dash has just a small hump over the gauges it's a do. If the dash "visor" is wider and covers half the dash, it's a GL and someone has switched the tailgate likely from a DL.

Subaru OE bolts only. Just reuse them. They would pull out of the aluminum threads in the block before they would ever stretch Subaru does not recommend replacing them. Feel pro does so they can sell you Chinese made crap. Reuse the OE, high quality Japanese bolts

Neither code will cause driving issues. I left mine unhooked No probs for 20k miles plus

4" wide The stock 13"s are 5.5"

Parkin switch. Replace or just bypass and they will work

Upper rear bearing toasted and seized. Nylon probably chunks of the oiling trays in the rear transfer. When the end of the shaft starts walkin backward, it chews a "ring" out of the middle of that oiling tray/block off

The rear blinker is not the brake light. It's the amber. Brake switch and brake light circuit not involved with turns. An 87a relay for each front turn will do this. Mounted near each corner (downstream of the split to each front bumper light) Power to the front turn should pass through from 30 to 87a(normally closed) pins. And when turn signal powers the 86 terminal (with 85 grounded) the 87a connection goes open. This will blink the front blinker off as the corner marker goes

The seal behind the hub/rotor assembly is the outer wheel(bearing) seal

Drill the rims not the hubs. My $.02

It may be a 5spd 2wd trans(single range). If so it will "work" but you will have only 2wd As stated above, there were no 5spd d/r 4wds from 81. Not til 85 was it introduced on ea82 models. Never on ea81

3.9 ratio 23 spline stubs.