Gloyale

Okay I understand more now. Didn't mean to jump on you just correcting a few facts which I do in an overzealous way sometimes. They aren't "rare" so to speak but I think very special engineering indeed. Harness strips are a big hassle in a sense, and also very much doable and been done. H6 is slightly more espescially 01-05 are pretty easy compared to later with drive by wire and Variable valve timing. Biggest issue would not be any of that going into a 88 DL.......it would be fitting a radiator once it was in there!!

Methods 1 and 3 will result in terrible toe issues during cornering per following distance between inner tie-rod pivots = distance between A-arm pivots + (difference of balljoint to tierod in horizontal plane) If otherwise the toe changes during turning. I can say this because I know. I did a write up installing EJ steering into EA82 car.....it works....kinduv......but the car eats tires and corners weird.......you can measure the toe change wheels Striaght vs. Turned

I did this recently to use an 83 Power rack on my 84 sedan. Both werepower from the start. But the 84 was leaking.....and it's lines are different from the earlier ones. The 83 lines go through holes in the crossmember, near the front of the drivers side. The 84 lines come up with the steering column piece form underneath...so to use the 83 rack on the 84 member would have meant detaching lots of lines and drilling holes and fishing through. So instead I supported engine with a craddle from above......detached exhaust, lower arms, steering, and outer tierods and lines from pump and switched out the whole rack with the engine and suspension still in car.

LOL Even carfax says it's on;y worth an extra $450 over retail bluebook! KBB says 3,400 so add $450 that's $3,850

Enigine bay at the firewall driver side. Near fuel filter and Wiper motor. Green for Test White for Read Both for Clear

SCAM!!!! Repainted, Not the car from the invoice, WAAAY more oil and grime than 18k miles would have left. Seized valves? on an 18k mile motor??? My guess is this whole business is a scam that repaints/reconditions cheap cars then rolls back the odometer (or replaces it) to try to claim they are "low miles original" and sells them on Ebay so people can't look too closely until it's too late. And even if it was all that it says........7000 is just crazy. SCAM!!!

Pick one. Better stuff costs more. Just replace it with a stock turbo unless you are doing other mods/tune

Yes won't know how much air is going into the engine. It will run for a moment like that though for testing will just not idle and will stall.

This is like being homeless until you can afford a mansion.

No different size opening. What you can do is use generic "CAI" tubing and silicone elbows.....otherwise try to replair yours, or find a used one.

SPFI doesn't use a "priming" cycle. MPFI and EJs do. Pump will not start until starting and cranking. ????

Completely false. The 3.0 is an entirely different motor. Fully parallel cooling system. Chain Driven, DOHC. Chain Driven Water pump. Coil on plug ignition. They make 240+ Horsepower, reliably, with no worries about T-belt service. The OBD II harness is not much more complicated a strip down than the 4 cyl versions. I think they are a very special motor indeed. Ours has 260k plus miles and counting.....and the only thing besides oil changes it's needed are spark plugs, an Oil Cooler O-ring, and the serpentine belt idler bearings..........Pennies on the dollar maintainence wise to any other subaru I've owned.

Most, if not all power improvements will decrease the gas milage. 2.5" exhaust is more than big enough. You don't need backpressure with a turbo. Cone filter will make you suck hot air from engine bay, rather than cold air from under the fender. Leave the airbox alone. Cone filters suck anyhow......dirty air is no good for the motor. Just change the paper filter regularly. I know, it doesn't make you feel as cool as washing out a K+N....but when your car starts puking burnt oil out the exhaust, from worn rings and turbo from dirty air you won't feel very cool anyhow. And oh yeah......EJ it!

There should be 12v + at fuse 11 with key on. That fuse supplies the power to the relay. ECU grounds relay during cranking, which then powers the fuel pump. If that fuse has power, then the problem is you aren't getting Distributor pulse. Test fuel pump by connecting green "test" connectors and turning key on. Fuel pump should cycle.

I've got the 88 FSM's that the Spokane Library used to have Bought them from a book reseller on Ebay and they were stamped "Spokane Public Library" I called them to make sure it wasnt' an unreturned set and they are not. Anyhow....yeah.....might wanna try somewhere else. Sorry.

The brakes were the only thing holding the wheel onto the car. Wheel bearings I'm sure are screwed too. The hub was surely cocked in the knuckle and riding funny. Heat from brakes and fire too? Yeah, I'd replace it all.

ATF can leak from just a few places. 1. Rear output. Easy fix with a new seal 2. Trans pan. Reseal with "the RIGHT STUFF" or another good RTV sealant. 3. Dipstick o-ring.....easy fix with new o-ring 4. Torque converter front seal.....this one is unlikley...but if there is ATF coming out of the bellhousing area between engine and trans, that's it. 5. O-ring where wiring goes into the trans on drivers side.....this one is ussually not more than a weeper. Very difficult to reseal if it's leaking bad. And finally #6.....the most likely to lose large amounts of fluid at a time since it's being pumped out.......The hoses to the radiator. There is a 7th.....unlikley possibility.....I've seen once the gasket between the pump body and the trans case leaking pretty bad (someone used paper instead of metal gasket for rebuilding) That's one that puts the trans into the "junk" pile since replacing it is not cost effective. In fact......with what this trans has been through, I Would advise 90% likely best bet is new trans.

Or you can thin the WRX harness down to just Engine stuff, then add it into the car and make a few power/gauge connections. Disregard all the original engine wiring of the car, and run the harness "standalone" This is like what we do when we put EJ engines into older subarus (80's, early 90's) where there would be really no other way. Now of course since the car you have, and the donor WRX share chassis and most body wiring, you could do a full front harness swap but that would require full dash removal. My personal preference would be the "standalone" method......beacuse then if you wreck the car of for any reason can take the whole motor harness back out easily and use in something else. (Vanagon, Hovercraft, Swamp buggy, Riding Chipper or whatever)

It doesn't matter where the shifter goes. It's all about can the shifter pull the selector rod "out" of the trans far enough to engage reverse. If the stay rod is moving around......the motion of the shifter will be transfered to the stay rod (stay moving forward), rather than actually "pulling" on the selector shaft. Also, the bushings in the shifter "U-joints" can wear and make it hard to transfer the tilting motion that moves the selector between 1/2, 3/4, and 5/R forks in the trans. Check those bushings as well.

That's when you go EJ OR eventually FA/FB

Did you put the throw out bearing on the clutch fork?

That's BS that dealer would make you pay for the 2nd one. The dealership should have taken it for inventory and paid the cost. I would have been on the phone with SOA...pronto. If it's an Automatic, pull the rubber cover at the back of the motor and shove a long sturdy screwdriver or prybar into one of the Flexplate holes. Make sure it doesn't wedge against anything plastic while cranking on the crank bolt. If it's a Manual trans, put it in 5th gear with all 4 wheels on the ground and parking brake locked tight (or assistant holding brakes is better) this will keep the motor from turning while you tighten crank bolt. Use blue loctite on the bolt.

Not the distributor. Spark will not increase/decrease idle that happens from air/fuel. You need to take off the top of the carb and do the following. it is not nessecary to remove carb base from the engine. 1. Remove bowl plugs and drain bowl....this will allow you to use a spray straw on a can of carb cleaner through the drain holes to spray out the jets. 2. Remove emulsion tubes (brass screws under top) CAREFULLY with a good fitting screwdriver so they don't strip........a few have caps on then the tubes are underneath.....there are 4.....remove them and spray them out good with carb cleaner 3. Remove the lock screws on the side that pin the air horns, replace the tiny o-ring in each and reinstall. 4. Install new accelerator pump 5. Tighten carb base after all that's done.

You must removen teh timing belt to get to the crank sprocket adn key.

Driver side is diagnostic connectors Passenger side is for A/C optional.