Gloyale

Power steering leak can look like that too but will be red (ATF)

Won't work without major re-wireing. The XT heads are dual port intake for MPFI......If you don't have the engine. Your SPFI eninge is single port, and will not mate to the MPFI setup. To use the Single port motor ni the XT, you'd be better off putting a Carbed manifold on the Loyale motor then you could run it with just a + wire to the Coil.

Rusted filler pipe allowing water into the fuel????

Not real common but it happens. I've had an E18 and an EJ22 in recently with burned valves. Pretty simple fix totally worth it.

pull the engine. undo the rad hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines, exhaust behind turbo and wiring harness. Mount it to a stand. OR>>>>> Unbolt manifold, flip it up over the spare tire area. Remove turbo and crossover pipe and pull the heads. Either way works.

Yes red/brown 2 wire connector on the crossover pipe is the ECU temp sensor. When it is faulty or non-op it the ECU will run fans all the time.

New valves won't just "lap in" I am suggesting he replace just the bent 2 and have them ground. Lapping will work for all the rest if it was a decent running engine anyway. besides, 2.2 bottom ends don't fail unless run out of oil or otherwise abused.

Coolant pipe o-rings replace with 1-9/16th diam., 1/8th" thick, buna rubber o-ring. $.50 at any auto parts store. Pipe from any non -turbo EJ will work. EJ18,EJ22,EJ25 doesn't matter. Biggest headache for these can be the EGR pipe if your car has it. 17mm Flare nut wrench highly recommended.

Swap wiring from EJ25D manifold onto the EJ22e manifold. If TPS are different swap 2.5 throttle body onto the 2.2 manifold also.

What you are describing is lapping, not grinding. Good for freshing up old vavle seats.....but won't cut it for seating new. No matter how much compound you use. Grinding is done with a special tool/bit that matches the seat and valve......but doesn't do them "toghether". It's got a guide rod that slips into the valve guide and then grinds the seat while slipped over said guide rod, ensuring the centering. If you need new vavles installed I would recommend having them installed by a machine shop that can truely "grind" the new valve and seat to the proper match. It's a real downer to put a "new" engine toghether and have it suffer missing and poor compression.

A little late with these comments.....But just to contribute for others reading in the future.... One can tap the 2 holes in the sprocket for a 5/16th bolt (or 8mm, but will require drilling out a tad) and then use a steering wheel type puller. And yes, for the record... front end impact can disturb the seal of Oil pump, the heads, and even block halves in an offset frontal crash. I ran an engine for about 10k miles after a major front end impact. The seal between the block halves had been compromised, so the oil for the drivers side half was draining out on shutdown. after 10k it threw a rod. 96 EJ22 with about 200k on it. Regular oil changes otherwise a good motor til the crash. When opened up, the dowels at the heads/block looked like hour glasses. Clearly the head had shifted 1/4" or more sideways on the block face. And the o-rings between the block halves were clearly disturbed and distorted.

NO. Carter carb was used on 82 model 4wds. Since they didn't make 4wd sedans in 82 (only 84, and all with hitachis) This one has a Hitachi. But because it's 2wd it's certainly a Feedback carb. The carb itself will be identical to the 85 hitachi, other than minor jetting differences. Not a problem really....Just hook it up as the carb in the 85 is and it should work fine. Might be jetted a bit lean....made to be riched by the "ECS" duty solenoids restricting the air bleeds. You could put "orifice" restictions in the air bleeds to get the mixture right or swap jets if you really want.

No they are just gutless. Made to do 55mph cruising as that was the national standard then. Water....Sounds like moist PNW air to me. Although just to be sure you did replace the Orange, oval shaped O-ring between the case halves when they were apart? That O-ring can leak and be a Mo#%er F(&ker to track down.

I'm betting on broken or striped pump drive.

For offroad you could unlock hubs to run a welded diff. Lock for trail. In this case, the OP wants to be able to select FWD/4WD/RWD

Broken flexplate? Guess it wouldn't start then. Missing flexplate bolts?

Early 80's Isuzu front hubs (Pup, Trooper, Hombre, Chevy Luv) up to 87 IIRC, Use an axle that shares it's inner spline count for the CV joint with Subaru. You could mount the Isuzu hubs to the subaru suspension, and then use a Hybrid axle with Isuzu outer CV, and Subaru shaft and inner CV. You would lose the Front E-Brake.

Remember, the 97 engine is Interference...the 95 is not. Good idea to put a new timing kit and Water pump on the 97 engine before it goes in the 95.

PM sent

Sounds about right for a 20 year old car on winter blend gas. If it's a manual trans that could be a bit low......But consider......these cars are geared for 65 MPH max cruising speed of mid 90's..........Most everybody does 75+ on freeways these days.

I've got 2. PM me

Crazy that would be awesome. PM me for address when you are ready to ship.

The EGR code is 34 Ohms of the resistior should be 33 ohm. You likely won't find a 34 Ohm.

I use peramtex "the Right Stuff" for all my oil pans without any gasket. The EA cork gaskets suck and the EJ's don't use em anyhow.

Hi all. I am looking to setup a 3rd eye light with a DPDT relay setup. This will be in an '81 model year, EA81 wagon. So positve switched system with glass fusebox. (EJ swapped w/internal regulator ALT.........but that doesn't/shouldn't affect the lighting setup) There was a writeup in the old USRM on the indysworld server......but sadly the link is now 404. So i am looking for info on this. Where is the factory timer box located? Anybody got specs on this? I've got an 82 model Serivce Training Update that has a basic diagrahm of the Lighting w/ third eye......But it is showing the Ground switched setup of later model type......with the 3rd eye as an auxillary Hi beam, rather than a "passing" light which can be turned on anytime. And it has no wire colors, or locations of connector pinouts. This is useful.....and I can post a scan of it for others.....But I really need to find good info on the early setup, where the timer is, and how to bypass/replace the original with a DPDT switch or relay.... I will make this a Write-up with info and diagrahms thorough. If I can get it all compliled and figured out on the test rig.