Gloyale

I don't think he converted the car......Just used a set of 2wd front struts......which should not be a problem or cause clunk (unless he forgot the spacer washer the bearing pivots on between springhat and bearing.

Radius rod bushings? Wheel bearings? Missing spacer/washer on the tophats when changing strut?

Unless he hooked his clutch cable to the battery.....the clutch is not providing a ground. besides....he says here: It is touching and "grounding" the main power wires under the dash. When that happens power goes away. Seen it before.....sometimes happens with steering tilt lever too. Ussually a sign someone has been up under the dash doing things.

Does the car have aftermarket stereo or alarm? Aftermarket remote start?

Yeah those lines are for the trans cooler. Seen that on newer 2.5 but never on a 2.2.....What did it come out of?

Then why does one have black and red paint and the other has coolant "weep" marks. New reman maybe? From what I can tell also, subaru doesn't sell bare cylinder heads. There is only a part # for "head assembly" including valves. Maybe europe is different? But I sure would not pay $1000 bucks for em.......maybe $300 for both. Tops.

Weak ignition switch. Adding a pushbutton or relay at least ussually fixes it. Sometimes replaceing the contacts for the solenoid in the starter is required. Less than 20 bucks and takes about 45 mins tops.

Cannot move exhaust and intake vavles independant of eachother on the SOHC motor. If the car is Automatic there is a chance it could be fine still. This is becuase when the engine stops running the hydraulic pressure drops away and unlocks the Torque Converter and the car just rolls doesn't try to turn the engine. Manual will be toasted valves for sure.

Haynes Sucks. There is a persistant mistake repeated in them. There should be only one loosening of 180 degrees.....enough to bring the effective torque on the bolt to zero but not enough to let "loose". THis may be letting the gasket wander during the process. Although I'm inclined to think that both you and previous owner used cheapo gaskets.....they fail......I've had the same experience with them from Mizuna or something??? they suck.....won't last 10k miles. OE subaru grapithe with the fuji stamp ONLY.

Could also be a gummed up and/or frayed cable. Stretching while being used, and gummed up inside hte housing. If you replace hte clutch I'd replace the cable too. Or try the cable first......see what it's like after that.

Broken front CV axle.

Exhaust studs are M10x1.25 not M12. I assume this is a joke.....but to be clear. First....it's the head not the block that's stripped. Second....Tap for 7/16th is easier/cheaper than helicoil and leaves room for a helicoil later if they strip again (which they wont if you seat the stud right) 3rd.....the "gen 3" head improvement applies only to the MPFI dual port heads. No difference and nothing to gain from swapping heads for him. Bingo. Except also the exhaust cracks tend to be on turbo only cars......not a problem on N/A engines.

Does the hood hit when closed? It might on a non lifted rig.

"the Right Stuff" or at least a good RTV is all that should be used for the pan. Cork gasket will leak for sure. Factory came with just sealant. For Evap run a line from the Evap solenoid on the mani over to the canister, and then up to the port on the intake. Easier than swapping lines from a 2.5 mani to a 2.2

It's actually a slightly diferent switching valve. THe one that opens to Atmo has a small filter head on it.....whereas the one that switches to a T in the canister line has a nipple there instead of the Filter head. Might be 97 that the change came??? 95 is definately a one year only arrangement. (connector is the same, just some circuits moved around within it and some wire colors changed)

Too much oil. And not installed the right way. I always install the head to the block, seated on the dowels with no bolts yet. Then I install the bolts using a tiny bit of oil on the threads and washer. I hold the head down tight and run the bolts in quickly with an air ratchet (just to zero....no torque). Also, during the loosen adn retoque I don't loosen a full 2, 180 degrees.....I just go to loose enough to have no torque....or less than the ~20 you will be starting the final torque with. Keeping the head fairly tight to the block through the whole process keeps the oil in the holes. I've never had an issue with oil seeping out....that sounds like too much. I have resused Composite gaskets with 10k miles on them. Got them on my wheeler right now. Copper spray and a extra few ft/lbs............... MLS......not so much.

Solenoid clicking constantly means the Engine intake manifold grounds is not connected or the Main engine connectors are not engaged completely.

95 ECU is different Also IIRC early the MAP sensor is switched between Mani and Atmosphere where late model is switched between Mani and Vent line.

There is a 2 pole connector in the kick panel with Heavy-ish gauge red and black wires. These are the main 12v+ and Ground supply for the switch panel. Check them for power and ground at the connector, and then again inside hte door at the switch panel. There is another fairly common fail point where the Main power wire (red) has a crimp junction for the smaller gauge red wires out to all the individual switches. It is under the driver side carpet and corrodes especially in Salted road areas. If there is corrosion here the power may not be getting to the switchpanel or may be too much resistance and cutting out the circuit breaker when used.

I would not trust it with any real amount of weight. Those sheetmetal screws will pull out eventually. Hopefully I'm not behind you when it happens.

If all the dots were forward then the pistons should be correct. Any chance you used non OE bolts for the torque converter to flexplate? The OE ones are half height heads, for clearance in the belhousing. If so a bolt head could be hitting sometimes and that would fit with the change in rotational force from on/off throttle.

It is the bypass for before the thermostat opens. It is the return from the heater core. A "bypass" hose for any older For V8 will work perfectly for that coolant hose. (289, 302, 351, 352, 360, 390, 400)

It's been done by a board member here. Search. SubaGuru I believe. It was pretty cool but he made his from a 3 door hatch so there was no Tailgate.

You would need an entire 4wd rear suspension in addition to what you mentioned. I don't think the OBD I/OBD II is a problem. You'd just strip the entire engine wiring harness out of the WRX/STI and install it piggyback to the legacy harness. Just like is done in an EA/EJ swap. difficult but very doable.

The car also may have DRL (daytime running lights) The headlights will be on any time the car is running, and the parking brake is released. If setting the parking brake makes the lights go out that's what's going on.