Gloyale

If you've got a mig welded just drive around a college dorm area and look for thrown out cheap metal futon frames. Chopped and welded these make EXCELLENT roof racks.........thin wall not too heavy but strong enough to support 1 or maybe 2 (giggity) people and a little recreation. Still need crossbars to attach to gutters, but they can be had pretty cheap at Goodwill, Play it Again Sports, or Craigslist.

BAH-HUM-BUG-EYE!!! J/K Merry Christmas all.

Did you make sure to orient the pistons with the correct sides "up" and forward? They are all marked but it's easy to get them mixed up. These engine have offset wristpin pistons(1mm). All pistons must offset to the same side of the rotation direction of the crank. This is to prevent piston slap being so prevelant. IF you got a piston in upside down it could cause some funkyness. Slapping or perhaps even hitting the case.....the ends of these rods do run VERY close to the case(that's why the small 48mm rod bearings). One of the things they changed in the Phase II blocks was opening that up so that 52mm rods could be used

The 2 things that I've found contribute to slippage and delayed engagement issues like this in the 99-01 trans are the input shaft o-ring(on main input shaft), and the brake band O-ring(between valve body and band) The first is pretty easy to change if the engine/trans are seperated. Teh second requires removal of the pan, and hte valve body. The valve body on these phase II trans are all self contained and come off in one piece.....so it's less intimidating than it seems. Still messy though.

All that is needed is a Dual range trans, the shifter and console for it, and a matching rear diff..(most are 3.9) Oh yeah and you will need a set of 23 spline axles.

First you said attached to firewall. Now you say attached to transmission. And at no point have demonstrated an applied knowledge of the system, it's parts, and their functions. Nor can you accurately describe where they are located let alone know what the above part is called. For these reasons I said to ignore your advice. I stand by that. Do what you want to your own car. But just because it's what you choose to do doesn't make it "good advice" My advice on the other hand is ALWAYS based in actual information from Subaru manuals unless I state otherwise.....which I do when something is MY OPINION and not fact from the manufacturer. And FWIW, Subaru did not use and does not recommend sealant anywhere except the outer groove when installing camshaft carriers to EA82 heads. The reason is to avoid "smush" of sealant into oil gallery. If using sealnat improved anything for you, there was another problem in the head or carrier....and you temporaily masked it.

Replace the Throttle body gasket. But you will probably end up doing the headgaskets.

Pull the ignition relay out from above the ECU. Install jumpers between the main contacts (2 sets) If it runs then, the problem is the ignintion switch.

I had a customer tow in a Manual trans 93 legacy on a dolly. I hoped so badly it was a FWD car when I saw him coming in. It wasn't......It was AWD. THAT was bad.......The Center VLSD is shot now burned up to nothing. He's lucky it didn't lock and try to drive off the dolly. It now acts like a completely open diff. Fine for him as long as he keeps all 4 wheels on even traction. Automatic a bit more forgiving. A few miles shouldn't have smoked the clutches. Honestly, flat towing an Automatic is worse.....then the whole main drum turns without a fluid pump to lubricate.

1&2 (front) 3&4 (rear) I have seen once....On my own car, a coil where only one post goes dead. The other side of the same coil still fired, and the other coil too. So it can happen. It's the only EJ coil failure I've ever seen.

More torque.

Hard to say. What's the price of scrap in Germany?

Okay lets clarify. There are 2 or three issues here. All in cooling system but all NOT RELATED. 1. The fan is controlled by a simple thermoswitch. This is the one in the radiator. It's been bypassed with a jumper, mimicing the closed switch, so it's always on. this is a good sign. the fan works, the circuit is intact.....put a correct switch in it and the fan will work only at high temp. 2. The sending unit for the gauge is either bad or disconnected. It is a single wire sensor on the thermostat housing (upper rad hose). Find the wire and hold it to ground with key on, the gague should peg.....if yes.....sender is bad, replace it and you;ll be fixed. If it doesn't peg when grounded then the cicuit is bad. ***note*** the thermoswitch(fan) and the thermosensor(gauge sender) are very similar size and threads....don't confuse them or put the wrong one in the wrong place. 3. Someone has likely removed your thermostat........replace it with a Subaru OE one. Another note***** Someone had some overheating issues with this car.........get that temp gauge fixed asap........you need to know what the real temp is. It's being masked by the "hacks" someone has done.

Bingo. Get a proper coil. Accel "racing" stuff is Junk......think about it.......Cheaper and made for short trip/infrequent use "racing". Not day in day out 100's of thousands of miles. I have never seen an original EA subaru coil fail. I've seen it once in an EJ. Not following you here. If you've got fusible links burning........there is a short somewhere. Again, how is the coil wired? Did you tap in power to the pump from the Black/white wire to the coil? It should be on a seperate circuit with a relay.....not direct to switched power at the coil.

How would they compare? Like Gary Coleman vs. LeBron James in a basketball game. My 84 wagon runs 31 x10.5 mud tires on 15" rims........2.2 does great I cruise 65~70 easily in 5th on flats.......hills I still use 4th.

Shim on bucket. No lifters or rockers. Solid no hydro. So I doubt it's valvetrain nice.

I didn't mean to be "harsh" I am not judging anything except the information he has posted here on the forum. I've seen enough from him now to be sure he needs to read and learn more before trying to advise and if he does people should take it with a metric ton of salt. I have seen many, many posts of "advice" from him that range from slightly incorrect to flat out wrong and troublesome. I don't want to see people mess up their cars or their LIVES listening to his advice. I have nothing against him, or ANY board member personally. You are all my subaru friends and I will happily meet and greet and share subaru fun and awesomeness w/ anyone. I love you guys. (except Monstaru....Brian you're a rumproast )

On;y the glass is different. All the tracks and parts for window and locks should be the same.

I've threaded an NPT 1/8th pipe thread gauge in for testing. Grabs about 2 1/2 threads......So it doesn't damage the threads, I don't crank it totally tight. It will leak a tad at the base, but still should register near 100 psi at start up.

What are you TALKING ABOUT!!! There is no "Vacuum pump" on these cars. Or really any gas powered rigs (except maybe for cruise control...not applicable here) And there are no "4wd switches" in the transmission to "run" anything. It's a completely mechanical gear selection via a sychro/collar/fork setup activated by a cable operated lever on the rear OUTSIDE of the trans. The cable is operate via vacuum diaphragm with vacuum supplied by the 2 solenoids. One or the other solenoid is "on" at any given time....and the cable pulls to that direction for either 2wd or 4wd. I think he's talking about the solenoids......but they don't often have issues. And if the 4wd works they are not the issue. Also....there would be no visible way to determine them "SHOT" Allan, Don't listen to ScoobieDubie.........his advice is dubious at best, confounding at least, and complete misinformation at worst. Try this..........go to a gravel parking lot.......Push 4wd button and drive in circles.....you should be able to tell if the 4wd is working (skipping rear tire on inside of turn) If the 4wd works.........then the problem is in the switch on the back of the trans. If the 4wd is not working.....then check the hose from the vacuum resevior to the solenoids....and from the solenoids down to the engagement diaphragm. It's the big round thing on side of trans. 2 hoses. one on each side of diaphragm.

How is the coil wired? have you bypassed or altered the original wiring? Fuel pump control unit? And is the coil a stock subaru one? Also....how are you determining that the module is "popping"? We need more details

Cams from in the 89 engine have a different profile. You will want to bump the timing up closer to 20 like it would be in the SPFI setup to make it work well with those cams or switch out to the older carbed cams.

Yes that's the IAC hose. HUGE unmetered air leak. Glad you found it.

And???? What was it? IAC hose? PCV breather hose? Brake booster hose?

You EJ18 makes a little less HP than the EA82t. (108 for EJ18, 115 for EA82t *USDM) And weighs about 50lbs more. I agree about reliabilty but in this case he's got the EA82t I would say that Megasquirt should be able to run it fine.... But if you like...you can drop in regular carb or MPFI pistons and run it with no turbo to make about 90~95 hp using all the original Intake minus turbo.