Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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Your emulsion tubes are clogged. Get a $25 dollar rebuild kit and take the top off the carb. Remove the brass emulsion tubes and the jets and blow out/clean them all out. Reinstall. Make sure to replace the airhorn o-rings. That alone will improve the drivability greatly.
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Removing a gas tank made easy?
Gloyale replied to 914Driver's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You must remove the rear mount for the differential and allow it to drop down. Otherwise, it's just 5 or 6 bolts around the rim of the tank. Access from underneath. Nothing in the bed needs disturbed. -
Likely that the subframe from her car will be fine. BUT........... If your car is so rusty that the subframe needs replaced........You will likely break bolts and rip out captive nuts trying to change out the subframe. Save the time and energy and just keep a good eye on the rust and condition of your rear subframe and save up for another subaru. OUtbacks of that age should be cheap and easy to find with blown motors/trans. Swap in your motor/trans probably easier than changing rusty subframe.
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Engine will swap easy just use intake from the 02 Outback. Trans.....nope.....different gear ratios. If you swap the rear diff, and the TCU with it it could work.
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If the fire is inside the car........Your clutch pedal is cutting into the ignition switch harness. Check the pivot area of the clutch pedal. if the fire is in the engine bay.....I woudl guess the cable is hitting the pos. battery cable at the starter end.
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Don't connect them......just leave them as they are and tape up each indivudually. If there is a problem.....it's isolated with the circuit open......if everything els works.....leave it.....drive you're car. I believe it's original purpose is to keep the rear cargo light from coming on with the drivers door. The Cargo light comes on with any of the other door switches closing to ground.
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I would agree about likely an issue with drivers door. It's important to remember that the cathode side is only tied to the LW (blue/white stripe) wire for the drivers side door. But the Anode side is connected to the enitre rest of the circuit. I feel like this is likely just a chance failure though......as a diode is not a fuse....it doesn't care about polarity on either side of a circuit. And a short on the circuit would blow the fuse on the LOr wire (Blue/Orange stripe) wire.
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You've got an intake boot or PCV or IAC hose loose. Or you've disconnected the MAF. The fact it runs at throttle but dies when you let off clearly points to an unmetered air leak somewhere. Did you maybe disconnect or crack the Brake booster hose? The PCV hose from drivers side to airintake boot?
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18-20, in a Michigan winter is about right. You'll likelly get 20+ in summer. With an automatic and the low gears in the forrester trans.....Yopu won't get much better than that. The trans hunting around is because it's trans mapping is set for a 160+ hp engine, and now has to work with only about 130~140 hp. When it should have enough torque to run low rpms in 4th it actually can't.......I would suggest dropping the shifter to 3rd when it's doing this. Automatics suck up the gas and power......espescially in a low HP engine.........Our H6 outback gets better mileage than any other Automatic subaru we've owned........I think because it's always running below 2500 rpms with all the low end torque.
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This all started after you were in the dash running new wires for the stereo. I will bet you've got a wire under there that is touching ground and shorting out to blow the circuit.
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They really aren't there for freeze protection. That's what proper antifreeze is for. They are there because they need to be to have somewhere for the casting sand to be removed. That's there actual purpose on every engines. EJ22 have similar ports in them, under the cam.......but for EJ they have been tapped and capped with hex plugs instead of press in. The "freeze plug" name is a misnomer and came about because of the totally secondary effect having these plugs can have of "saving" an engine from freezing.
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If it is going into and out of 4wd then the problem is just in the 4wd light switch. It's mounted in the rear of trans. Easy to remove from underneath.
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+1 oil pump back plate coming off.
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Might be a good place to note that 2.5 1/3/5 (SOHC) engines the center bolts have a larger washer too, in addition to the higher torque. Recently ran into an engine were the bolts had been mixed up during the last install. The larger washer bolts interfere with the cam carrier frame. Small washer bolts have an orange paint on the heads. The large washer are plain.
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Split the block to hone. Keep track of all the bearings in order and they can be reinstalled. If you have to ask how to install oil rings.........well....yeah it's good you're buying a shortblock.
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Lucas injector cleaner definately will improve mileage for a few tanks.
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He will want to replace the crank seal. But the Oil pump does not need a "rebuild" kit. The pump has one o-ring that seals it at the rear.....and unless it's leaking between the block and pump no reason to take it off.
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I used a section of cable, looped through an old rubber hose. 2 cable loop ends on each end.....and turn buckles at each end connected to loops welded on the crossmember. The cable goes over the top of the trans.....then gets cinched down.....pinning the rear of the trans tightly down against the mounts. We did this on a Legacy with a hybrid 03/06 ej25x.....(06 block/pistons/heads w/03 valvetrain running on 90 EJ22 ECU) It had too much power for the stock D/R mounts to hold......espescially in reverse where rotation of the front axles makes the trans tail want to lift. Same under Decel.
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Yes... And I believe the center timing cover from the 25d will fit the 22e. Phase II covers are totally different.
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There are 3 plugs in EA heads.....all of them are under the valve cover. IF any one of them leaks it WILL result in coolant dumping into the oil pan. But they won't cause a leak into the intake directly. But moist, mixed blow-by gases could be sucked in through the PCV
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Looks like a Capacitor to me. Could be to provide stable voltage to the dash or possibly the airbag unit??? IDK....that's a new one to me.
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They are all interchangable. In fact Automatics are easier since the lower starter bolt is a stud in the trans case......not one of the through bolts. Manuals the lower starter bolt is one of the 8 bolts in the 8 bolt housing........But one can install a threaded insert into the Trans bell, and use it for a stud for the lower starter bolt (8 bolt trans w/4 bolt engine)
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It's called the Fuel Pump Control Unit. or sometimes shown as "rev sensor" in schematics. It cannot tell if you've rolled over. It can only tell when there is a coil pulse (tachometer) and will only give power to the Fuel pump AND the Choke and Vent solenoid while cranking or running. The EA82 versions are the same function, but not the same unit. You can bypass them but make sure to power your Choke and solenoid too.
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wheel bearing or axle?
Gloyale replied to roadsubiedog's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
vibrations that are speed dependant around 55~65 mph are ussually tire balance more than suspension. Although wornout shocks/struts can make it worse. -
turbo clutch pedal assy V's non turbo - EA82
Gloyale replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
No.....In this case the pedal boxe do have something to do with it. The cables are the same relatively, but the mechanisms are different. There is a spring that assists in the holding down of the clutch so you don't feel the slightly higher clamp force as a pain in the knee. The spring is on a funky pivot so it kinda "locks out" at a certain point then "pops" back over to unloaded when the clutch is released.
