Jump to content
Registrations ×
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Registrations

Gloyale

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10955

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    86

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    It works........just not how you'd thought it would or want it to. Still an applicable metaphor.
  2. Gloyale
    Point taken. Hopefully you can get what you want. It's alot of fun to drive a Brat any way you get there.
  3. Gloyale

    Lift block height

    Gloyale replied to Uberoo's topic in Off Road

    Looking good man......keep at it. Love the to do list
  4. Gloyale
    Bolt bars across the strut towers to tie them together. Do the same with the rear towers and also add a few diagonal bars down to the floor (seat belt bolts?) Now the geometry is fixed......no matter how much of the body you start to take away (leaving just floor and firewall/front unibody) Peel off as much of the subaru body as you like........then add your tube over for roll cage and reinforcement.
  5. Gloyale
    I feel like this would be better in the "members rides" section... Ya know.......since you aren't really asking questions or taking advise.........in fact you kinda seem to not want any advise. good luck getting those tires. I'd be very surprised to see them in the states. You forgot one more option.....probably you're best......Scorpion wheels from Australia. 14" steel wheels made for older subarus. And likely easier to get than those 13" tires. So many more easy options in 14", and they would look more "street" with some lower profile rubber (195/60/14)
  6. Gloyale
    Put a putty knife under the trim bottom, and pry upward.....carefully. They just pop out. Smear a dab of sealant on the clips (dry and clean) then reinstall. There are rubber washers that seal it from teh factory but they rot over time.
  7. Gloyale
    I want to order something from them......But can't find any verification of the site....(verisign,etc.) Anybody use them and what's the experience like?
  8. Gloyale
    No one is suggesting anything requiring no key. And why care about original? Is this a collector vehichle? The answer is no. If it can't be driven it's worthless. It on;y needs to work, safely. Need not be "original" The key would still need to be in the lock cylinder and turned to the one position. The button will on;y activate the starter. Without the key the worst they could do is drain the battery carnking it to no avail.....and if they hotwired it the steering lock would still be locked. It's the G$@#!*M switch.........why do people come here to ask then debate away the answers?
  9. Gloyale
    Passenger headlight being dim is either it's fuse or the relay for it not passing power. Bulb is glowing from backfeed on the ground side of bulb from other side bulb. Relay under dash left of column in group of 4. It's one of the black connector ones.
  10. Gloyale
    This has been covered over and over. It's the ignition switch. You proved it by firing it off with the jumper. You need to add a relay....or a pushbutton....or both ideally. There is a pefect spot for a pushbutton just to the right of the column in the dash. the older subaru ignition switches get weak......I have fixed literally dozens of subaru cars with this exact same issue. The other option would be to replace the ignition switch itself. Not the lock cylinder....the switch itself.
  11. Gloyale
    Won't work without a relay. to simply do a switch you need an SinglePole/DoubleThrow switch........think On/On toggle.
  12. Gloyale
    Disconnect the electrical connector to the solenoids.......if it stops then it is indeed a switch issue. If it keeps doing it the switch is OK and the problem is in the Vac system or trans...... Disconnect the vac line to the solenoids and see if it still happens. If not.....It's a solenoid issue. replace the solenoids If it still happens with Vac disconnected....it's in the trans......gunk on the transfer collar???
  13. Gloyale
    The factory slider on second gens is 2 overlaping glass panels......and each on slides form the edge.....not the middle.. those are definately not 2nd Gen Brat.
  14. Gloyale
    This is my though...... 4wd engage solenoid may be passing vac through evnee when not energized. Button can be replaced with a SPDT switch w/o center off.......... OR......it can be done with a SPDT switch triggering an 87a relay..........2wd in 87a pin position.....click the relay on get 4wd from 87 pin
  15. Gloyale
    Sounds like poor manufacturing rather than a completely "wrong" part.
  16. Gloyale
    You declare it a piece of crap if it can be started will sell for 500 bucks but NOT RUNNING you want 1400?. Does it come with a bunch of the Crack you are smokin at that price? As for tensioner......What people are telling you is that the part the is behind the hydraulic ram.......the part that the ram and tensioner pulley bolt to.....is a seperate piece from the block......it unbolts and can be replaced......restoring the stripped threads...... If the timing belt is too far out.....the injectors will not fire......even if the pump is pumping..... How about a fuel pressure test for some actual diagnosis....instead of "if it was a this it would do that" get out some real tools and your big boy pants and stop having a tantrum at us. Test for voltage at pump while cranking......if volts but pump doesn't work......THEN the pump is bad.
  17. Gloyale
    You';re describing EA81 car.......>EA82 cars the bumper bolts are accessed in the engine bay.........the captive nuts are in the bumper rail.
  18. Gloyale
    Bumper bolts are way in front of the valve covers. Take out the rad fan and it's easy to get to them. 4, 14mm headed bolts and the 2 connectors for the turnsignals..... Pretty easy if you want to do it.
  19. Gloyale
    You don't need a rebuiold to seal oil leaks. I would suggest a headgasket set.......reaseal the oil pump, and put a new Front and rear Crank seal, rear seperator seal and reseal the oil pan. If you REALLY want to improv eit a bit get new rings..... Oitherwise you aren't gonna upgrade ewasily.
  20. Gloyale
    I've seen it used in Nissan Patrol as a second case......clocked to the right side (pass for us but this was a South African rig)...... This leaves the Shifter and Speedo cable on top...but both drain and fill plugs on the bottom.......seems like it would work well for oiling maybe would weep out the vent but one could add 90 degree fitting to help there.........Filling with oil would be difficult though......almost have to add a plug or remove it/fill it/install it.
  21. Gloyale
    Yeah that's a 720 and it's t100 divorced case. The "hardbody" is the next model up started in 85.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_Truck That's the T-case I used in my project........All gears inside......2:1 reduction in low range. The weak link is the oiling.........It's basically like the hand crank Lucas display at the parts counters........So the upper most bearings (input) are dry after sitting......then don't get oiled until you drive for a bit.......So don't just hop in one and hammer on it......you gotta drive around gently for a few hundred yards to get the oil up to the top of the case. There is a vent hole on top you can drip some gear oil down before running if it's been sittin for a while.
  22. Gloyale
    There isn't a matching port to accept the IAC airflow......you'd need an adapter thick enough to tap a hose barb into the side and run it over to the Old 2.2 IAC port......agian with a plate that the hose barb feeds into ........ Not really a big deal to just block it off.........After 30 secs~1 min warm up it doesn't need it anyhow. Belt width???? NAhhh.......the Phase I and Phase II belts are the same thickness.......you must have used some off brands for your comparision not true Subaru/Mitsuboshi belts.
  23. Gloyale
    Yeah......old pumps dry out and corrode in storage...... Pump some diesel through your old pumps BEFORE putting them in storage......this will keep the seals from drying out and the vains from getting rusted stuck. Any time I go on a long trip in the woods, or through vast empty spaces like eastern Oregon........I carry a spare fuel pump. This is my kit for EA road trip car Timing kit Alternator Coil Disty Fuel Pump Fuses, Links, relays and some repair connectors. Clutch disc Clutch cable Throttle cable Cap/rotor/wires Front Axle Ball Joint EJ kit for my Offroader ECU Alt Coil Transitor MAF Fuel Pump Timing kit w/pre-compressed tensioner Crank Dampner Clutch cable Throttle cable Cluch disc w/shortened alignment tool Front axle Rear axle Rear axle CV cups w/clamp tool and Snapring pliers. Ball Joint Tierods Radius Rod Rear Diff stub and tools (E10 socket and a 7/16ths bolt) Oil + Filter Lower radiator hose Cone washer
  24. Gloyale
    Jeep case is a Married case. Either an NP205 or an NP 241. You'd have to fab a mounting system and a driveline.....which it's not made to mount seperately. driveline would be the hard part since it's made to mate directly into the back of the Jeep trans.......not have an external coupler.....but there is lot's of stuff available for jeep swaps so you might find something. Also though.....it's pretty large.......and it a chain drive case which is known for eating gears since it's oiled with ATF???? WTF???? I feel that Nissan 720 divorced case or Suzuki Samurai divorced case are the easiest, smallest, best fit for using in a Subaru. Can't do better without a Bill Hincher Custom toyata to subaru Bellhousing I think you mean a 720......previous model to the hardbody 80-84?5? Those are the ones with the divorced case Known as a T100 (unrelated to toyota T100 truck) Nissan Hardbodies got a married case, which doesn't come off the 5speed.
  25. Gloyale
    Center wire (yellow) is 12v switched from the Ignition. Outer 2 are the triggers from the Ignitor(blue + red IIRC)
×
×
  • Create New...