Gloyale

He should just get a Non-turbo five speed that will have 23 spline stubs. stock axles.

Well......often impacts will have a snapring at the tip for holding sockets.......and this will prevent them from seating deep enough into the plug.......espescially if you don't clear out gunk. Definately don't want to strip that bugger. Worst case drop the rear of diff from carrier, and unbolt the cover.........then you could blue wrench it :flamethrower:

It's subaru for sure. I really think it's just the carter manifold from 82 4wd (49 state spec.)

What happened?

1 more option....probably the best after Peugeot rims..... 8. 5- lug swap from xt6

hmmmm... well first off it looks backwards.....was it in a VW or Sandrail or trike? Maybe a single barrel Carter intake? would be from an 82 4wd...

The one in the first pic is vac for the Power Brakes. It definately should be plugged for test.

Front hub is not part of the rotor. But EA81 hubs are not that hard to find....and as long as you keep your axle nut tight.....you won't need another set. Rears the hub is part of the drum......drums are also easy to get. Unless you have swapped to discs in the rear. 14" nissan and Mazda rims are around all over the place.....most in stamped steel.....but some in chrome too. I just picked up a set of 15" mazda steel rims, shallow offset, flat center.......for $35 bucks for the set. C'mon man.......your even in Orgeon....where parts cars are around.........now the guys in Nebraska? Or Arkansas? they got real problems finding parts. Oh yeah flipping rims is stupid. Won't center........Weakens the bolt hole forceing the chamfer the oposite way.........Dangerous for sure........and oh yeah probably will hit the fender behind the wheel when turning and have TERRIBLE bump steer. Also stress the wheel bearings.

Could be just valvetrain noise....which get's worse with crap old oil. If it got a bit better with the new oil you may be fine.... although it's never good to run low on oil or run old oil.........so yes you'r more likley now to throw a rod.......how much more likely is hard to say.......EA82 bottom ends are pretty tough. Check your oil regularly......change it regularly.

Miles....the EGR port is the same.....pass. side head out the top. The ASV tubes are where it's different........and the SPFI heads can be drilled out and tapped for the ASV pipes.....but why would you....ASV is stupid system I ussually tell people to remvoe or at least plug w/ quarters. +1 to swapping whole longblock.

it would....but it would be a downgrade......Hydraulic w/solid follower. Your 97 valvetrain is solid w/roller follower. All EJ22 springs are the same

Unless you are running turbo.....I would be very careful what you do to them. Best advice is to deburr any casting ridges inside the intake, and port match the intake/heads to the gasket. Otherwise leave the intake alone. You want a rough inside wall and will lose velocity if you open it up too much. Exhaust you can do the same and also polish a bit and round off corners. Really port work is more effective on Turbos because airflow is a major limitation for them.....N/A not so much.

You would alter this diagrahm so that the currently black (ground) wires at the 85 would instead be the green/yellow of factory light connector. The 86 pins would get 12v+ from the 3 pin at the factory connector (from stock relay).....or you could hook them in with the fused 12v+ line you added to the battery. Tis diagrahm also doen't really match the wiring shown in the pic.......This diagrahm shows all grounds tied to one wire at the body.......the pictured kit has the Relay grounding through the original wiring.......and then each light seperate.....which would be REALLY not the correct setup for a 82 plus model with gorund switching.

Your 85 brat is a ground switched system.... You need to reverse the polarity of the triggering of the relays. The set is probably wired for positive switching. My guess is you will need to rearrange the plug that goes into the original socket. IIRC it's one of the outer posts that should have 12v when lights are on........this is where you will want the positves of all the relay coils to attach to. The other 2 pins of the original socket should connect to ground one at a time with the Hi/Lo beam switch...........these need to connect to the ground side of the relay coils for corresponding Hi/Lo. I did something similar using an old A/C and fan relay set from a legacy. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136060-headlight-upgrade/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bupgrade

Hmmmm...... I am not sure that is enough to say conclusively it's the cause. but it is a bit concerning........do you get any noise like rod knock when you put the clutch in?

That's a good one. Durable non-interference 2.2 engine. 4.11 Automatic........Could switch it for a 4.44 later. Strong axles with good travel..... Rear suspension will limit you to 29" tire (235/75/15) with Subaru parts (99 OB wagon shocks are tallest) Wider by a few inches than the older EA cars though and heavier by alot. But if your making a buggy you can trim lots of weight.

The whole bushing piece presses out. Gonna have to use a very precise fit collar of some kind to press the sleeve out not just the old rubber.

Unmetered air leak. Check all the IAC, and PCV hoses for any cracks. Look for any other vac leaks. Spark plugs and wires too can cause trouble like this but ussually that you will have to get out of the throttle to make the bucking stop.

FWD fuse and spare tire have NOTHING to do with the brakes. I suspect if you put the FWD fuse in then the car would not drive with a broken front axle.

For future reference........if this had been a 3spd auto.......there can be damage to the transfer clutch (4wd rear output) if you do this. The 3at transfer clutch is small, weak....and all of them are 25~30 yrs old.....it won't hold up to rear wheel drive action for long. I had to limp my 84 sedan like that once.........first hill and the transfer clutch started slipping.......made it another 1/2 mile home but it would not have lasted much longer. In contrast.....I drove my 89 wagon from Montana to Oregon pulling a 1500 lb trailer.......in RWD after removing the broken piece of the front axle.

Radius rod bushings? Or maybe the radius rod plate itself shifting?

+1 to clutch cable and I would add a Throttle cable to that list. I've had to use the broken throttle cable and lock it down under a bolt to hold the throttle open...........5500 rpm in nuetral.........then drop the clutch and go.....shifting up through the gears got me to about 35~40 mph...........slow several hour drive home at that speed when a spare cable would have taken 5 mins to install.

Nothing is a direct fit at all. The engine/trans could be fitted to your car....Search EJ swap......you'd have to tear out the whole 02 wiring harness and strip it to just enigne and trans wiring. Front hubs could work .....search Five lug swap......rears no. Rear shocks might be able to be used on the loyale if you are giving it a lift. That's about it.

This was a joke based on the name you chose buddy.

Timing belts w/ extra cogged roller at least....best to have extra tensioners too for EA82. Don't forget the 22mm (7/8ths) socket and a breaker if you've still got covers.