Gloyale

Welcome to the USMB Questions about your loyale should actually be in the next forum down "old Gen" not the historic. Mods can move..... But your 4wd won't work because you disconnected the small vac line from the engine to the canister at the back corner/pass side of the engigne bay. This vac line supplys the solenoids that do the shifting for 2wd/4wd. Also it controls your blower modes......Right now I bet you only get heat from the dash? Not defrost or foot vents (heat).

Yes it will run fine with no O2........Certainly not the problem. I ran my 2.2 with the same setup an NEITHER 02 sensor for several weeks until I got the bungs welded into the exhaust. Runs fine.

Bad idea. If the deck was supposed to have common grounding they would have made it like that. I have seen it kill some decks within a month. I would not recommend anyone run a modern deck on the combined ground setup of the stock wiring.

I would remove the ECU......Check the condition of all the connectors. Sounds like either the power or the ground to the ECU is not connected when cold. I would inspect the grounding bolt on the intake....that's where the ECU gets all it's grounds. Also....make sure that condesation isn't forming in the trunk and dripping down into the ECU.....I had that issue with an XT that sat outside for many winters and had the cloth on the rear shelf removed so it would condense water then drip through little holes down into the ECU.

The ECU will be monitoring O2 sensor for mixture......so you'd just get 2 TB's pumping half the amount of gas they normally would. Nightmare of a Fab project......The intake boot would have to "T" toghether so both would pull through the MAF. IF you were to do this it would require custom fuel management or it will never run right. So....in this case.....the EJ swap IS the "simple answer"

It's 96 Obd II with the 2 o2 sensors......Neither of which has it's own harness.....they are part of the main harness to the ECU. Sounds like you are talking Phase II SOHC 2000+ This model should run reasonably with no O2 hooked up at all.

It never hurts to inspect the pivot for the pedal itself......I have seen those get sticky from corrosion.......Only on older models but hey......everything ages.

Make sure the new cable is routed propely UNDER the steering column. I always measure for about 2mm of slack at the fork. Gotta pull the cable end and push on the fork to get a full measure. On my wheeler with EJ22 and 30's I set it with even more play. And I treat it basically like a switch....in or out.......never slipping or "riding" I put it in gear with minimal light throttle and drop. I don't apply any real amount of throttle until the clutch is fully released and engine/trans are coupled and the rig moving.......THEN i gas it and accelerate. Same thing between gears.......Off throttle or light throttle (just to keep RPMs matched to next gear) until clutch pedal is released and engine trans/coupled.......no slipping or accelerating in the middle of the shift.

Hood, Fenders, Grille and door mirrors......Will interchange with any 81-84 Wagon, Sedan, or hatchback. Doors themselves will only work from a Hatchback. As for panels.....J.C whitney has some pieces for brats.......otherwise get out the 22 gauge sheet and the welder and go for it. Lot's of old Suby stiff is remarkably similar to ford...so bed panels for F100 could be cut down and used for patch I'm sure. It doesn't sound like your trying to preserve any "originalness" or do a restoration. Simply you want a rig to drive so just make it functional.

If you ran power and ground directly to the blower...and it didn't turn.........It's bad. Sometimes you can pull the end cap off the blower motor itself, and clean out carbon debris and other crud in the brush area.......this will sometimes bring a dead fan back to life. Otherwise replacement is the option.

This works..... But is a bit more work than needed. If you use the factory wires for just the rear speakers.....it's very easy to simply run 2 short speaker wires in the dash over to each kickpanel and connect to the speaker wires in the doors. (pink 2 pole connectors. wires are Yellow and Blue left, White and Blue right) This eliminates the need to pull rocker trim, door panels, or anything at all except the kick panels....which just pull right out.

Everything I've experienced says the starters are the same. Sure your not using an Auto starter?

Chance are the engine is fine. I flipped my GL.......Spent about 30 mins with a winch getting it flipped over and drove it home. That car was totaled, but that engine is now in my Girlfriend's loyale. Runs great. I would worry more about an engine that's been in a front impact.

Hey Jason....You get that harness? Have you had a chance to try it yet? Sorry it wasn't labeled as nicely it was a pull out from my rolled GL.

Your having trouble because you are relying on Haynes/Chiltons guides or some other generic wiring info. If you had searched the USRM......this has been covered many many many times......Thanks for the enthusiasm......the write up won't be nessecary. Don't buy a harness for these cars.....they will be wired to combine the front/rear grounds of each side like the factory deck....which does not work well for newer headunits.

The red green and Red wires are the dash lighting wires.....One is power, the other is variable ground through the dimmer switch. The 2 pin connector with these wires in it is for ash tray lamp or lighting for another accesory. Also......You need run new speaker wires or at least new Negative wires to the front speakers, and use the other 2 Negatives (Blue and Blue/black) for the rear speakers or it will burn out your new deck. if your Loyale has no rear speakers ignore this. But if you ever wnat to add rear speakers the wires are there from dash to doorjam......but the grounds front/back for each side are combined....so best to run new wire to the front speakers (easy) and use the existing wires for the rear.

Well.....That's awesome. I still don't understand though.....that is Connector i77 with wires for the "passing switch" which is connected to both the Hi beam circuit and the Open/Retract headlight unit. Neither of those things is connected to fuse 12 ???? Are you sure you didn't just wiggle around some other connector?

The drum is the Hub.

I found the green relay (see below) to control the driver side headlights and the illumination as you stated. Was there another schematic I should have seen that pointed this out or should the relay in the first diagram really be labeled "Left lighting relay"? Yeah.....it should have been labeled "left headlight" I hate chiltons/haynes wiring diagrams.

No it's not. The Running lights are run off of the left hand Headlight relay. Glad you fixed it just clarifying.

If you've got no power to the coil that is the problem. If you had power to it but no spark, then you could suspect the coil.....as it is now I would not suspect the coil. It's probably fine.....suby coils almost never fail. I supect the Black/White wire that feeds power to the coil......if it doesn't have power with key on, then you need to figure out why.

Seems like most blocks are BBBB..........since that is the "middle" size it's probably the standard they shot for.....and the A and C pistons are for blocks that have just a slight variation..... I can't find reference to it in the FSM....but I have seen "A" pistons.....never seen a C......... EJ FSMs clearly specify this.....I think it was left out of the EA FSMs........most of the time a rebuilder will go with the .25 or .50 mm oversize. Which are way bigger than the A, B, and C pistons.

From your sideways picture above count left to right on the top row....1-8.....second row, 9,10, 11, 12 is the forth one in. Stop focusing on the FL........I know you are thinkin they are related....but they can't be. The FL gives power to the fuse......so even if the fuse blows....the FL is still giving power to one side of the fuse.......the Short is "downstream" from there.......on one of the curuits that is fed power by fuse 12. Here from the 86 FSM for XT.......is everything listed on the #12 circuit. Warning units, Rear defrost relay, Diode box, Trip computer, Blower relay, A/C max switch, Height control Unit, Switch box???, Speed warning, Mode control unit, Kickdown relay, Power window relay, Kickdown solenoid. Any of those things your car has, disconnect them. You can substitue a test light between the contacts of the fuse...it will glow until you pull the device causing the issue.

On;y the 2wd sedans in 85. All the other carbed are 9.0

There is not an adjustment on the D/R lever. There is an adjustment of the interlock between the 4wd and D/R shifting (rod on side of trans) but if the trans has not been upened or messed with that rod should not need any adjustment. There is not a nuetral between FWD and 4WD....only between hi/lo...... If the car is lifted that could cause the lack of FWD.....the shifter is being pulled.....needs lengthed just a bit.......otherwise.....maybe it's installed wrong. the car was likely 3.7 ratio originally, D/R will be likely 3.9.....check that the rear end has been swapped too. Also....I am guessing the vac hose under the dash that feeds the vents is disconnected.....look above the clutch pedal. And likely the blend door cable is not looped on the blend door.....both of these things were probably disturbed during the dash removal for EJ swap. There is also one more cable on the far drivers side for that vent....if it's disconnected....that vent can blow cold air all the time.