Gloyale

Loyale lighting is run from one of the 2 Headlight relays........LH I do believe......it's up behind the dash in the group of 4.....(black connector, wires= Black, Black, Black/red, Black/white) Sends thte power through fuse 6 to the lighting switch. Now, the parking light circuit gets power from fuse 4 (Red/white wire)..... Since they do not work from either ciruit I am going to suspect the switch....not the relay. Also if the left headlight works....it's not the relay.

You won't be.. You are smart. The turbo was the worst thing subaru ever did to an otherwise wonderful engine. The EA82 MPFI was the test bed for all the wonderful EJ adaptations........OHC, MPFI, Multi-port heads, Long equal length runners....... The 88 turbo cams are longer duration, less overlap in each cylinder......but more overlap between one cyl to the next......the Non-turbo MPFI in the XTs actually got even more duration........So.......the Turbo cams in that engine will be just fine with some NA pistons.

Also check the Bore marks on the block and the pistons and match them A,B, or C size.... IIRC EA bore marks are on the bottom of the block? perhaps even on the oil pan mating surface?>>?

XT and GL pump kits should be the same......reseviors are different but the pumps are same. Also....90,91 Legacy uses the same pump too...but it's holes are larger for mounting but otherwise indentical guts.

That's the speed alarm. I had an XT GL-10 turbo.......with a key switch just for turning the alarm on and off......it beeped at you over 55!!!

Did you get a MPFI intkae tube? the SPFI ones will not fit the MPFI throttle body. The turbo Cams will run in the NA just fine.. In fact in 85/86 the Carbed and Turbos used the SAME CAMS!!!.... 88+ turbo cams have slightly longer duration than the SPFI cams......The NA MPFI cams have even more!! So the turbo cams should work great. Also.....for coolant lines just plug the hole in the botom of the head....and cap the return.......there is no need to loop them since the coolant goes straight out of the turbo to the radiator. The head gets it's coolant from the block then up and out to teh radiator.

You need real clamps. The zipties are letting air out when it warms and expands.....then it seals well enough under vacuum as it cools down. You need to squeeze most of the air out with the joint compressed to about 2/3 in.........then clamp it tightly with a proper CV clamp The boot should be slightly "sucked in" when cold....the air and grease inside expand when hot. Possible you have too much grease in there too.

A hole in the head? You don't need that?

Also.....Be sure you got glass from a Wagon.....Sedan rear windows are not the same.

Close......Carb blocks are 9.0 (carbed 85, 2wd, sedans got a 9.5 block) F.I. are all 9.5

Well, that fuse is indeed the #12 one I was talking about. hmm....Gonna have to keep digging......I'll keep lookin through the FSM... Pretty much all the wire on that circuit is Red/Yellow.....so I'd look for relays that have Red/Yellow wire and pull them til you find it.

Wow...... So...the air bleeds for the secondary slow and the bowl vent are looped (loop at abck of carb) this is no good effectively closes off that air bleed pulls fuel if anything and the other bleed for main is capped with a Golf T........ no air to secondary emulsions......open them up......capped with a small orifice would be best I think. The Primary slow jet is capped.....so it idles OK cause lots of fuel pulled through the slow emulsion.......Main is open......terribly lean...no vac......cap that with an orifice. I'd also cap the ports on the front of the carb excpet the one goin to the Distributor Vac advance.

Turn signal and cigarette lighter not working may be unrelated....they are not on that circuit. But the blower relay and rear defrost relay are on fuse 12, along with A/C unit, height unit, Power window relay. The strange thing is that the on;y connection between the 1.25 Fusible link and the Circuit you mention is literally the IG. switch.....and that is before the fuse so short there wouldn't blow a fuse in the box. IDK......I think you have more than one issue But for the fuse blowing start out bychecking the relays below the radio in the center......try removing the Blower relay(white connector with RY and GW heavy gauge wires) and the Defrost relay(blue connector, also RY wire)

I've got an N/A MPFI air intake tube here in Corvallis. PM me for price. Otherwise you just need to plug the oil/coolant lines to turbo, and get an SPFI Y-pipe. I did the same to my 89 GL turbo, and it was great....the ECU will run it fine without boost.

piston Numbers always correspond to the position on the Crank....so 1-2-3 with 1 being the closest to the Timing belt end.

Incorrect. after 87+ 3AT all use 3.9 unless turbo. I just rechecked the 87,88,89, and 90 FSMs.

There's at least another 50k miles left on her......maybe another 100k If you treat her right. Rust will kill it before the engine will die where you are at. I lived in Kenosha WI for several years.......and your area is even worse for salt/rust.

Opposite......Taller final drive and taller lo range..... Although.....5th gear is shorter so Freeway speeds equal out about the same as the 3.9 non-turbo unit. Only early ones......after IIRC 87+ the 3at also has 3.9

He means the small port inside the throttle bore. ECU....you just need any 90,91 Automatic....or any 92-94 Auto or Manual ECU from a legacy. Probably not the issue though... I would adjust TPS to baseline first...so the idle switch is actually closed and making contact to ground when idle........Then reset or replace the IAC.

Very nice. Great to see it in good hands.

As long as the car is EA82 then the 25 spline turbo axles will be perfect. Dowels....actually they will push out the trans side if you choose to just squeeze 'er together. Turbo trans will be 3.7 ratio...From early RX....85,86.... So you will need a 3.7 rear end. Also your lo range is now only 1.19 instead of 1.59..... Damn.....I wish I had that trans for my XT....

yes. you don't....thats the sound they make....Seems like brats you can here it more than wagons. To add to this.......If it fails to start after first try, give the accelrator 2 pumps....then try again.....each time with your foot off the pedal while cranking.....this keeps the choke activated(closed)....if you are giving it gas you can actually be opening the choke.

Well.....You need a US or other market EA81 mani then huh?

Both the crank sensor and the Oil light switch are below the alternator. The crank sensor is more on the front, dead center. The oil switch is slightly to the passenger side, about an inch or 2 back from the front, with a single spade sticking out with a wire clipped to it. They go bad and seep oil from the oil gallery......which is bad since that oil is supposed to be going to the mains/rods/valves.

Also....just a thought......the FPCU won't power the fuel pump or the anti-diesel solenoid on the carb until it sees a tach pulse. I notice in the video your Tach doesn't move at all until when the engine starts. Almost like the Coil is not firing at first. could it be that the wiring to the coil has been altered? where does the coil get it's power......If it's been rerouted off of the Fuel pump power......that would make a Chicken/Egg situation where the coil doesn't see volts til the fuel pump does and the Fuel pump won't get volts until the coil fires.....IDK..... try starting it with a jumper wire straight from coil to Batt.....see if the Tach moves right off when cranking. Something simple for sure.