Gloyale

It's not the whine of an FI pump.... It's a rythmic Tap-Tap-Tap of the diaphragm pump....you can hear it in his video sounds just the same as my Brat. If the FPCU hasn't been messed with and is working correct....I would suspect choke out of adjustment and possibly clogged jets/emulsions in the carb.

If it's fuse 12.....that would prevent starting since it's the circuit that triggers the Main Ignition relay. The power for the Ignition coil is fuse 11. Things on the #12 fuse... Blower relay, Rear Defrost relay, Kickdown switch, Warning lights, Combination meter. Is it possible you wired the stereo into the interior lighting cicuit? What color wire did you hook the Batt and Ig. 12+ to in the dash?? Humor me......pull the trim and inspect the radio wiring.

Okay.....when you say "meter" which fuse is it in the box?

It's a switch built into the rear latch mechnism. Connects to ground when the latch closes.

You are psych-ing yourself out over it. I am guessing you don't know much about cars in general? If so...you are in luck....these cars are SIMPLE.......easy as cake..... Buying something else will be throwing away what you've already spent....and likely will be another can of worms..... A good subaru with a few things done to fix it up is WAAAY better than some old piece of crap GM or Honda that runs.......cause when those break..which they will....you will be screwed no way to fix them cheaply. Forget about the crank sensor.....that's almost never the problem with subarus. The oil on it doens't matter.....except that it is probably coming from the oil light switch..(small switch, under Alternator) it's 15 bucks and a few minutes to replace. Let me ask first....Does the Check Engine light come on when you turn the key "ON" before starting? if it doesn't......check the green Slow Blow Fuse (SBF-2) in the underhood fuse box.....the one on the right will be blown.

Perhaps you ordered the EA82 adapter??? If so, you could just use an EA82 carby manifold. Otherwise welding would be great.....just have it done by someone with experience.

Nah.....they came out in 87 in the XT, 88 in the GL-10, and 89 for regular GL turbo (not GL-10) The 3at that has been installed should work if the final drive is correct. It doesn't need a computer.....just on vacuum line.

Nope.

So......to start a carberated car when cold.......you should not be "giving it gas".. The proceedure is to derpess the pedal fully once (this sets the choke on it's cam).....then crank... You may have a choke issue....perhaps it needs adjusted? Also, it sounds to me like for some reason your fuel pump is not running until the car is started. You can here it after the car starts...but not before. Has the FPCU been messed with? Perhaps the voltage to it is dropping away while cranking?

if 4wd it's definately worth at least $500 I would be a bit suspect of the mechanics opinion too.........not common for them to have a "colapsed piston". How did he determine that? Compression test? Leakdown? More common for these is passenger side timing belt skipping/slipping so one bank is off.......might want a second opinion.

Brake light only comes on for 3 reasons.... 1) warning light "test" with key on......out when charge light goes out. 2) Park Brake handle up......switch is on the handle.......Perhaps spilled, sticky gunk, gumming the switch up espescially when cold? 3) Fluid level in resevior......Switch in the resevior.....Sometimes can be stuck down when not quite full......Top it off a bit?

Good guess but not applicable to the 90 computer. The rev limit w/ no VSS began in 95 with the OBD II computers....(one reason I like the OBD I for swaps)

Holding a Cam sprocket to try and stop the crank is asking for belt slippage/damage...........Fine if the belt is junk.....not good if it needs reused. Also.....never do this to tighten the crank bolt with a new belt.......You will ruin the new belt.

Well if the radio is going out when it blows, the radio is on that circuit. IN my experience, the stereo is the most monkeyed with electrical system in a car........you never know what someone did in there.... Common ones are to A) wire the radio "ON" power to the red/green Lightning wires... Leave green "Hot all times" wire cut and dangling.....shorting out on metal in dash... C) Wire up speakers without seperating the Front/rear grounding cicuits.

Feed about 3 feet of clean, nylon rope.....though a spark plug hole.....it will jam up the piston when it comes up and allow you to remove the bolt..

Stereo wiring may be shorting out.

You can't switch the front section (front diff), without also remvoing the rear of the trans to access the Pinion gear shaft........and also you must remove the Pump body if the pinion seal needs replaced. The gasket that seals the pump body is metal, expensive, and from subaru only....as well as the tube seal and the tail section gasket. You're better off to just get a new trans.

The cable came off the arm? Or the arm actually came off the blend door? If the cable came of it just clips back into place on the side of the heater box......loop goes over the arm....

turn the idle screw up a 1/2 turb or so......It's a recessed screw (flat) look straigh down at throttle it's behind the intake bore.

+1 Also.....you will want to loosen if not completely remove the rear bumper......and take out the center light first. Bumper first. Failure to do this will certainly cause trouble and likely you will chip the lower corner of each turn signal and the corners of the center section.

This is why I preffer drilling rims instead..... Never had a problem....but If one were to have a hole get "off".....you can simply rotate to a new set of holes and redrill. You get 3 tries per set. Although.....six lug hubs are nice for running alloy wheels.

Correct......the microswitch mounts to the D/R lever......IIRC...the microswitch is the same type as the one on the side of the Heater box for activating the A/C when the "vent" button is pushed. so maybe you could scavenge the one from your loyale? Mount it to the shifter......run the wires from the Trans connector into the cab to the microswitch.

I have nothing to prove to trolls

This is unnessecary, and inapropriate.....and childish really Yet.....I'm the rude one????? You are still confusing potential of a circuit with the draw amperes. You are a troll.....You even acknowledge that with your "location" in the heading. Go back under your bridge.

Yeah......that's the Hi/Lo light indicator switch. The 85 had the switch mounted to the D/R lever under the shifter console.... in 87....they changed and added the switch to the side of the trans....... In 88....they went SPFI and added a Nuetral switch to the trans as well.... so.....For U.S market, EA82 series....non-turbo Dual range subi trans this is the breakdown..... 85,86....2 switches.......Reverse, and 4wd 87 Fed.(carbed).....3 switches........Reverse, 4wd, Hi/Lo 87 Cali, and 88,89 all..(SPFI)......4 switches........Reverse, 4wd, Hi/Lo, and Nuetral