Gloyale

depends on how you do it. You will need a special socket to remove the lockring on the back that holds the outer race in the arm. Hammer out the stub axle. Then I ussually use a 36mm socket to drive out the old outer race(fits just inside the race) I drive the axle stub into the new bearing with a press.....then use the old outer race to drive the new bearing w/stub installed into the arm.

Still can't legally sell it without a title. If you have the ssigned paperwork from the last owner, you need to get the title in your name before you can legally sell it. Technically. Anyone who does buy it, will be stuck unable to scrap the body since a title is required to "junk" a car.

I order "stone" brand headsets through WorldPac. They always come with Japanese OE headgaskets and ussually always good NOK japanese seals.....sometimes the seals are THO but the headgasekts are always OE. Sometimes same sets listed as Ishino. Same deal. I personally would not use FelPro. Japanese made only for me. My $.02 Oh yeah....I would not ditch the hitachi carb unless there is has excessive throttle play. Otherwise, Hitachis are easy to clean out and reseal and will run GREAT if properly working, which ussually just requires a $25 carb kit and clean out and reseal.

IIRC, Speed sensor is in a seperate 2 wire "t" shaped connector.....not the round multipin connector. It comes out of the back/center of the dash. You need to gorund the black wire in that connector, and connect the Yellow/red to the EJ VSS wire.

U-haul recently rented me a trailer that would fit 2 bikes easy......Even had a notch for the front tire to rest in. We picked it up with a 2003 Outback H6.....Not really any more car than the 94 Leggy except a couple extra cylinders. IDK, they might rent it to you just say you want to take one motorcycle not 2.

Remember, EA81 stock Wagon wheels had about 20mm deeper dish to them than the EA82 wagon wheels. So wheels that fit well on an EA81 (isuzu, Mitsi) will stick out about an inch more on EA82. "chevy" wheels and probably those aftermarkets you got Danny are the deepest off all. The nissan and toyoyas that I posted are the most "tucked" ones i have found. The Isuzu(chevy luv) and Misubishi wheels stick out a bit further. The white waong in the background of my second pic has Isuzu wheels, and they stick out a hair on EA82s but tuck well on EA81's

Nah those are for newer model european cars. smaller 4 lug and some 5

I believe it is set cruise speed display when cruise control is on. Japan only from what I know.

As long as you have those on the washington forms, you are good to go. Although if the paperwork is dated, there will be a late title fee assesed. I wash't suggesting it was stolen.....or at least that you don't think it is.....without a title you don't really know. Only thing to use on a Brat from it would be Rear disc and maybe seats........and even for parts you have to have a title. It is illlegal even for "parts" to "sell" a car you don't own. *note* and unrelated Property owner or landlord may dipose of abandon vehichles worth less than $500 by giving them WITHOUT CONSIDERATION (meaning s/he can't accept money for it) to an unrelated individual after making good faith effort to contact person resoponsible for the abandonment.

If the shifter feels and sounds like its moving throught all gears........The it is......If you can feel the detents of each position...the shifter is working and attached......... The fact that you can do that while the engine is running is a clear sign the clutch has a problem, and is not engageing......most likely a sudden delamination of the clutch material on one or both sides..... IF the shifter feels sloppy, loose, and you cant hear the "clunk" of the gears moving when engine off (espescially reverse should be audible).....if that is sloppy no detents felt or engagement heard then it could be the shifter......... can't tell ya....those pics are too hard to see stil for my eyes.

1. Yes ok to splice. Just piggy onto the starter solenoid terminal. 2. CEL you will likely have to add a pin in the harness. Trace the ECS light circuit path on the board to the connector......IIRC pin 2 or 8??? 1 in from the ends but check yourself its easy to follow. The light will have 12v+ to it already and the wire from teh EJ22 ECU is the ground to light it up. 3. These wires will be Battery hot at all times. 20 amp fuse should be sufficent. 4. These go to the IG. switched power. I use the factory Fuel pump relay connector to tap in so it's already fused. but you can use the Ig. switch wires and add a fuse or go to the fusebox and use the EGI fuse (10 amp) I have to ask......Where did you tap Speedo wire? and for Temp and oil the EJ has a switch that will peg the gauge to teh top at 0 pressure, and drop the needle to nothing when the oil is pumping above 2 psi......kinda reversed think of it as a light rather than a gauge. Temp wire add a 270 ohm reistor in parallel to the sender to a ground on the intake to correct the temp reading scale. Tach (yellow wire)can also be accessed easily at the old Fuel pump connector, as well also you can tap the Fuel pump power wire there too so you dont have to run new wires bakc to the pump.

HOst the pictures somewhere else and/or get better resolution. Cant'see in those. Sounds like maybe a blown cutch disc?

I just don't think fitting VW inserts and making your own bracketry on the bottom end of the strut is going to be as easy as you think. In fact......I will be surprised if you complete a fully functional set......that holds up for more than a years use. Not hating, just being realistic........if that was gonna be easy....people would have done it. The only "modified VW" struts I've ever seen on a subaru failed miserably (literally bent til they bound on the wheels)

You need to start by checking for power to the pump when cranking. If no power to pump.......the problem is likely the fuel pump control unit above the hood release pull. Do all you power checks and verify that the pump is or is not pumping before blowing out the lines.

Is the last registered owner the person you aquired it from? In Oregon.....In order to get a replacement title, you must have a signature from the last registered owner, on a DMV "lost title" application form. If the person you got it from is not the last registered owner, or you don't know who the owner was, or you can't find them.....Your Screwed. Better off to leave it on someone you know's property and get them to then "give" it to you with an "Abandonment Lein" Until you do one of those things and have a title you can't really sell the car. You don't own it. And anyone that buys it from you without that paperwork is a fool. Also Wrong Forum.....Mods move to "for Sale"

Yeah I just rip the old belt off..... Then I install the new one using the marks on the pulleys straight up. There really isn't a need to use the marks on the belt but they can be helpful. *note* plastic covers distort so I always go by excactly straight up even if it's not quite on the plastic marks.

Haha....thank god they didn't go with "SCAT" for the name. Someone must have filled them in that "scat" is a term for wild animal droppings.....Specifically Coyote droppings. "Hey gang! Let's take a roll in my SCAT!!!"

14" early 90's Nissan rims Or 15" early 90's Toyota rims

XT6 knuckles are like Impreza Knuckles.. So......XT6 struts will bolt up I think maybe one hole slotted slightly. Or, like I said WRX lowering struts but they would be more than $14 a piece.

That's too far out for my taste.

If you just want to tighten the bushing, start by just adding one to the back....just to tighten the bushings a bit.... *note* the washer added must be large enough in the middle to go OVER the shouldered portion.....or else it won't compress the bushing any further. If you want a bit more Caster....you can add a washer or 2 to the front thus pushing the radius rod forward.

Could have been just bubbled tires, blown C/V joints, or a crappy 4spd....... What engine did it have and was it indeeed F.I.? was it a 4spd? or 5Spd? If it was an EA81 w/ SPFI conversion that would be a good thing to buy if the engine ran O.K. the stalling could have been a neutral switch issue? I would take a second look.....

WOW!!! RockAuto has the Front wheel drive XT6 struts for $14 bucks piece!!!

2wd XT6 strut? Those would be short enough to use lowering springs..... Or maybe WRX lowering strut? Problem I see with your plan is fittig the insert into the old EA82 shock....HOw you gonna open those up? And how you gonna secure the insert in the tube?

Bad idea for interference engine.