Gloyale

Input shaft bearing. Probably pushed on the shaft installing clutch causing play in uppershaft main bearing. Or it could have been going out already and this was just last straw or coincidence. Shaft and gearshift "walking" forward as you try to engage 4th.....trans needs new upper shaft bearing.

DUH!!! I meant front/side/underneath of engine.....where on the engine is the coolant coming from............Gravity applies everywhere so OF COURSE it's gonna be under the car. If you can't figure that out maybe you shouldn't be worrying about try to diagnos it yourself....since you have no chance of fixing it yourself......Close your hood.........take it to a mechanic or at least someone knowledgable about what parts an engine has.

Sounds about right. at 55 they run about 3800 RPM......by 75 your at 5500 rpm. they were built when highway Maximums were 55mph nationwide....not really meant to cruise over 60 at all.

Good job! The only thing I would add is that you should not need to add any grounds to anything in the harness except the Fuel pump relay. All the other grounds needed should be already contained in the engine intake wiring. You want the ECU, and all engine sensors to ground to the same place...at the engine. Which they do in the factory setup. Only the fuel pump relay ground goes to car chassis.

video won't play for me. Post it to youtube?

Where is it coming out? the front? the side, which side? underneath?

Do you have a pitch stopper bar installed. You must have one or the engine is lifting every time you hit the gas.

research basic differences of pushrod (OHV) engines and OHC motors.

They actually are powered through the Fuel Pump control unit (Rev Sensor on some FSM) They don't get powered unless there is a tach pulse recognized.. I do believe you are correct I believe they splice just behind the engine harness to carb connector.

I mean dimming from a longer wiring distance length, not time. If the trailer is 8 ft long......the wiring distance that the electricity has to travel through becomes a 40+ long circuit....to get back to the battery. The longer the wire, the more resistance, the more the volt drop. The factory subaru converter box will just plug in to the wiring for the tailights....and has a seperately powered cicuit fromt eh battery......still long circuit but it's built with a heavier gauge wire so there is less resistance and it doesn't draw extra power through the cars tailight/turn/brake cicuits. You should be fine to keep the aftermarket hitch....but I would go to subaru and buy their converter box....you should be able to install it yourself easily. However....I am not positive......haven't actually looked at a Crosstreks trailer setup just going off of subaru's typical setup.

I've never heard of a "trailer fuse" Ussually....the trailer lighting is run through a box to convert the seperate Brake/turn signals of the car into the combined bright filament of the trailer lighting.. Basically a relay and diode set to isolate the 2 circuits and prevent the cars amber turnsignals from lighting with the brakes. Now, since the late 90's Subaru has gone one better and installed SEPERATELY powered converters......that require a "hot" wire to the box and on;y use the lighting circuits as a trigger. There could be a Fuse for that wire that has gone out. That box itself should be plugged into the harness ussually behind the driver side tail light. You could check it to make sure it's connected still. I would check in the owners manual for fuse location and trailer infomation. *note* if your hitch and converter are not from subaru but u-haul or somewhere else......the info above will be inaccurate....those places ussually install a simple converter without it's own power......those suck as they overload the stock lighting cicuits....and the longer the trailer the dimmer the lights will be due to the volt drop of the long circuit.

I installed 2nd gen legacy Cloth, heated seats into both my DD wagon, and my old EA81 Sedan. Just gotta find them...they are out there look in 95-99 Outbacks often had them......not in the limited though those had leather.

Definately will require lots of work arounds..... Almost would need to piggyback the thinner down harness from the 2011 to make it work. I don't think an N/A 2002 ECU will run a 2011 Turbo enigne....... too much trouble. FWIW....the 2.5 of that era uses very short pistons and they sometimes slap. If the knock is loudest at startup, but then tapper off or stops after warm it's piston slap nad the enigne will still last a long time.

1. Gotta just fish it outta the hole....then clip it to the TC before reinstall 2. Shaft looks normal....the O-ring will be exposed. 3. Normal wipe it up and reinstall.

Temp sensor, TPS, And Knock unit for EA82 will be compatible....if he's got a complete intake......he could just match wires in the plug.

My 86 Brat has a Chrome bumper. Wagon, sedan and hatch bumpers are different. Funny, your's the liscense plate mount is in the bumper? Mine it's below the bumper on the body but the Lights are in the bumper.

Well....the article says just says "subaru gearbox and Front halfshafts fitted" Doesn't specify how that's done

I agree. I see clutch replacement in you're future. Clutch should be like an on/off switch not a dimmer

need more specific info. Model? Current engine? trans type?

It would work with a First gen EA82t intake and disty. Along with alot of rewiring harness, routing intake tube etc....Doubtful it would be a weekend project And I also have to ask.....Why? EA82 turbo is not 30 hp more than EA81 turbo. EA81T is 95 hp and EA82t is 110. EA82t heads all crack from water jacket into exhaust. EJ swap does not require a Dash swap of any kind...Do an EJ swap.

Wait... You are not saying you grounded the coils negative terminal are you???? That should not be grounded. If you have a wire going from that to ground that would be why no start. You should have 2 wires from harness to coil (B/W=12v "Ig. on" , Yellow=Tach) and 2 wires from disty (BW to +, Yellow to - ) and perhaps a noise supression condensor on the + side. None of those wires should be connected to ground. (except the condensor should be mounted) the body of the coil should be mounted and grounded....although it shouldn't matter with this type of ignition (the EFI transitor type need bracket to be grounded)

I paint with PPG Sand with 120-250-320 2 coats Epoxy primer surfacer sanded with 320-400 after each coat 1 coat Epoxy primer reduced with DT870 reducer- no sanding 2-3 coats of base color sanded with 400-600-800 after each coat except the very last one 2-3 FULL WET COATS of Omni 270 clearcoat with overall hardener. Wet sand with 1000-1500-2000 until completely smooth no dimples.....then polish. I use 3m Rubbing compound. I do not like spraying enamel......unless you have a pristine shop and very nice gun and air supply. You can't really sand/polish the finish so what you spray is what you get.....Also it chips easier ussually a couple years it starts chipping off of the edges where it was taped off.

98 Forrester engine will work. 99+ will not.

Check the condition of the disty wires were they come out of the base and are held by little clip. Seen lots of cracked, frayed wires there and if they touch eachother, or the body of disty will not fire.

1. You could easily use regular 23 spline shafts in the XT 2. Inspecting and reassembling would be a good idea if the condition of the box is unknown, and it has sat for a while. Sounds like you are just not wanting to do it but it is the best way. 3. PT 4wd with 23 spline are easy peasy to find.....almost all loyales had them. 4. Glad to help. And 5.......Even if you make 2 correct axles you will be screwed when one breaks (axles break way more often than transmission).....the more time goes on thte more this will be true as all the OE axles are going bye-bye every time someone turns in a core or junks another car. "New" chinese will be the only options by 2020...so you better be able to use of the shelf stuff or you won't be driving your subaru anymore.