Gloyale

That serial # would put that engine likely in the 86-87 range for U.S models. Confirm by checking for hydro lifters would mean it's at least an 84 or newer 5spd single range 4wd would have to be from a late 80's DL or 90's Loyale.

Yes it is. Either it's on or it's faulty.

test for voltage to the coil with ignition "on" and during cranking. If no volatge...it's the switch Confirm by jumper 12v to coil positive then crank it. if it then starts, coil, disty, etc.....are OK......Switch is bad.

LAME All Show, No Go, More Dough..............Uh....no

+100 C'mon Subaru....AWD BRZ!!! with or without turbo but gotta be AWD Toyotas rally DNA!!! Are you kidding!!! Who does he think he is......MR. Toyota? Oh....wait

what dies the other side look like? we didn't get ea81 touring waons here in th US.

Oil Pan o-ring

I've had more problems with Kenwoods than any other brand. Clarion FTW. Glad you fixed it.........Stereo wiring is always high on my list when things get weird......since it's the most likely item to have been messed with/hacked up/and screwed off by people with no real idea what they are doing.

Considering 1 in 3 drivers crash a car within the first 2 years of driving........I wouldn't let you drive my Brat either! Too valuable to get crunched by newb driver. Get an Impreza or legacy...they have Airbags.

That law uses resistance meaurement.....which is related to the Watts consumed..... You must also rememeber Watts law.......Watts= Volts x Amps. Think about a headlight. If it's a 55w light......it will use 55w....always......but if the voltage is dropped (which is what resistance does) the AMPS required to run said bulb goes up. When the Voltage goes low enough...the Amps exceed the capacity of the wiring.....and the connector melts.......Same thing happens with poor contacts at the bulb since the resitance causes a volt drop at the bulb......increasing the load...further burning up the connector. If this isn't true......then tell me how to make a light bulb consume any more or less watts.......without adjusting the voltage. Let me put it a different way........If you can "give" more amps to something than it's watts rating (True, that is related to the resitacne of the windings in the motor) require........then why isn't every piece of electical componentry in the car fried by the 500+ amps available at the battery?..... Answer: Each and every item will always only draw the amount of amps it requires based on it's Wattage. That is why electric motors give an Amp rating spec. @ a given voltage.....cause if the volts go up or down it changes the Amps in the opposite direction.

The bellhousing of the trans is actually the Front differential too........That one is done for. I would say get a new transmision as repalcing the bellhousing and re-setting up the front diff will be far more in labor than just swapping the trans.

Either way you will need to fab the mounts and shifter...... With the EA D/R you will need an adapter and redrilled flywheel..... With the EJ you will need custom axles or open up the AWD box and swap 23 spline stubs into the front diff. You will not be lifting....I will assume you keep the stock tires.......so might not need low range really with the 130hp 2.2 But you will be on dirt roads.....true 4wd might be better than AWD....... I don't know....I would be inclined myself to go with the AWD for better on road manners, towing, and better clutch options and no adapter needed. But then what do you do with the D/R lever in the Brat??? The EA 5spd D/R would probably keep the collector value higher as it's more like the stock unit. And it is far superior for offroading.

Nothin for that except welding in a new panel. Good news is that panel is fairly easy to make out of sheet metal. You could fab it from the roof panel of a wagon!

Seperated belts in the tire?

correct. last year for dual range was the 89 GL

I don't know why you think it's luck......the car did it's job. Of course it's got stuff bent.......but it all bent in a way that left the drivers compartment intact. This accident was almost excactly like the testing the NHTSA does......35mph offset frontal impact...only difference is he hit an old growth tree....not a wall. Subaru continued with frameless doors for 20 years+ from that car....up til 2009 or so. I'm like the Chuck Heston of old subarus.......... they can have mine when they pry it from my COLD DEAD HANDS!!!........oh wait that might prove your point....lol.

Nope...totally different. red is 85/86..... Greens are 87/88...maybe some 89s?

You are not getting it. I realize that the the sytem is still a "12v" system......But if you watch what happens to votage during cranking it drops when the AMP capacity of the battery is reached, it drops.....a good battery slightly....a bad battery will drop below 9v....... By increasing the available Amps.........you are keeping the volts higher even during high amp draw. Also......If you are hooking up to a running car....the voltage of that car will be more like 13.5.....which raises the whole system slightly.........Let's do some math. Lets say the starter solenoid draws 10 amps at 12v (might be less or more...just a round #) 10 Amps at 12v = 120 watts....so that is our load amount.....120 watts. So let's play with volatge a bit....If we bump the volts to 13.5 120 watts @ 13.5v = 8.889 Amps........less amps required on the ignition circuit. But if we dropp the voltage....even to just 11, let's se what we get.... 120 watts @ 11v = 10.9 Amps.........almost an amp more needed of the ignition circuit. This is why the jumpstarting works......You are dropping the require amps on the circuit by increasing the voltage to 13.5 and keeping it from dropping under load by having a bigger "reserve" of Amps behind it. the circuit can pass 9 or 10 amps....barely......but not 11 or more (not true numbers for starter just estimate) This is also why the relay works.......using the Starter circuit to power a relay (20watts or less) rather than the solenoid directly. Keeps the load on the circuit down massively. 20 watts @ 12v = 1.66 amps or less. A load will only pull what it needs.....you can put a 10,000 amp battery in....and the starter will still only pull the same ~250/300 amps.....you cannot increase the Amps to the starter.....only what's available for it......you can lead a starter to current......but you can't make it work any harder.

Not really. Nobody makes one. You could fab in some other type of diff that locker is offered for....but that's a huge fabrication project. If your gonna wheel it alot just weld the rear diff. That's the common practice here. If you do , It's a good idea to pull 1 rear axle out for street driving in dry weather.

Well.....Unless it's REALLY new......the legacy/forrester/imprezas won't be any better for side impact. I will leave you with a this picture. This car was going 35~40 mph into this tree.......driver AND 2 dogs inside all lived with minor injuries.

Since he's reffereing to the 86 version.....I'm gonna assume he means EA82. It is 99.9% the same as the '90. models. In fact subaru didn't make an FSM for ea82's after 90. I will say....that almost every wire in the connector are in a different spot for the 2 dashes.

As long as you get a good Koyo or NTN bearing......either type will work fine for many miles. I personally like the roller as opposed to the ball type. Biggest thing is to support the inner race of the bearing as you press the hub through. If not, the outer bearing race will be loaded by the force of the press.

Or you can put a leakdown tester in and fill the cylinder with compressed air. Honestly though.......this sounds like a terrible idea to do in the car though. I doubt there is any way to even really do ut unless you have some crazy low profile tool. You can do them without pulling heads but I would definately pull the engine and do it on a bench to make it easier. Also...why do you think you need to replace seals? Pretty uncommon for them to cause trouble......maybe your issue is something else?

Your "Friend" is correct. ANY4x4 vehichle without some type of locking differential will lose traction and spin the easiest wheel. Doesn't matter the make.....Jeep, Hummer, Subaru, Chevy, Dodge, Toyata.......all of em.....If it doesn't have a locker......it's gonna do that. Read about differentials.

IDK There are TONS of different scans and pics from 9 years of USMB posting. They PROBABLY are EA82 A/C scans....I think from the 87 or 88 FSM?