Gloyale

Battery connections and fusible link connections can cause issues too..... And what you say about jumpstarting is backwards. Remember, for any given load (watts)......if the volts go down....the amps required go up. It's actually supplementing with more Volts which decreases the amount of amps consumed by the load.......making it so amperage is low enough to be passed by the weak connection. If all connections, and the battery are good.....and you've replaced the starter (could have done just contacts).......And it still sometimes won't start....It means the ignition switch is weak..........I'd install a relay for the start circuit.

Airbags injure people all the time. Sure you survive.....but then you get cancer from the chemical cloud released. F%&K Airbags.

Here's the 86 diagrahms and testing info. ***note*** the pins and connectors shown on the first scan are the actual "at the dash" connections. The pins and connectors on the second scan that are actually labeled with wires location are the pins at the end of the "pigtails" used in the original setup. If you don't have these, you may need to source a set of the pigtails since there is no info on what's what actually at the back of the dash. I'm gonna go look now in the 85 FSM.....but it has notoriously lacking diagrahms and pics.

Remove the trans you have, open it up, and replace the large bearing on the upper shaft. This si the one that goes out, and when it does...the shaft can walk for/aft which is why it begins poping out of gear. Ussually it's 4th and 5th that begin poping first, since they are the ones with shift collars on the upper shaft. the bearing is about $125 from subaru.....and it's pretty easy to change. Any machine shop should be able to press the bearing on......just make sure the snapring is to the back. Read my write up on "easy front seal" replacement. it covers the front bearing and seal, but will give you an Idea of what's involved to get to the rear bearing. The rear one is the most important to securing the shaft.

Check heater hose connections.

The 4eat is not an Open center diff. In fact...it doesn't have a center diff. It has a Multiplate, Hydraulic, transfer clutch setup....which when working properly, is capable of full 50/50 locked transfer, just like a true 4wd. This makes it superior to a 5spd single range....and comprable to a 5spd Dual Range. It is the EJ 5spd "AWD" that has an open diff, fitted with a limited slip Viscous Coupler(4kg)......which do kinda suck for real offroading (unless fitted with 20kg VLSD pack) Biggest drawback to 4eat is that when it goes.....it's gone.......but that is true of a Clutch on a 5spd too.....so pick your weak link and watch it. That and the weight. 4eat weighs over 300 lbs vs. around 150 lbs for 5spd. Definately get a trans cooler.

PM sent

Well.....to have a digi-dash it would have to be a GL-10. anyhow......I'll get the scans as soon as I can.

That is some kind of retrofit. Or it's a system we never got here in the US. it's not the factory subaru height adjustable suspension that we got. Those systems we got here......In GL-10 model L series and XT's in the 80's......and in Legacies in the 90's.......were entirely air based. All of them, the air compressor is mounted in the left side (US drivers) under fender area (above the plastic skirt)

That really only happens to the turbo heads. I would say it's either intake gaskets, or headgaskets. Hate to say but there is a slight possibility it's a collapsed ring land......though the smoke is ussually darker more black form that....but it can make QUITE the smoke show. Joe, If the body is good and the price is right......get the car......tear the engine down and service it. Can't go wrong with a straight EA82 body, even if you have to put another EA in it or even swap to EJ!!!

I will try to get some scans from the FSMs from 85/86... This is for regular EA82 body, correct? not XT?

resistor pack is mounted IN the ducting.....I believe you can see it on the drivers side beside and above the gas pedal. 4 pin connector The blues wires through the switch and resistor are the ground for the circuit........that's why you see power on the wires when it's off.......12v coming through the fan from the relay. When you turn it on, it closes the circuit, and drives the volts on the blue wires to 0 v. The switch connects the blue wires to ground. What you need to do is test for power on the Green/white wire at the blower w/ key on. If yes....then relay is good. Then test the black wire at the switch to see if it's connected to ground. Even if the resistor pack is bad the blower should work on high (4). So if it doesn't work at all the problem is either power to the motor, or ground to the switch, or some break in the wiring between.

Leakdown won't show it. You need to remove the exhaust from teh head and look for these

The lugs hold the wheel tight.....it's the vertical faces of the wheel and the hub being squeezed that takes the force. the lugs just keep them tight. If you were to put a half inch of washers/spacers on each lug....then bolt the wheel on so the faces don't touch.........the wheel would not stay true, and could wobble loose or even break a stud.........And wheels don't get hot like engine does. The problems will really become evident when the engine is hot.......espescially on a hot day.....under hood temps can exceed 200 degrees.

The first 2 "rear" bearings down on that page listing are both likely right.....the NTN one for sure. The NTN is the OE bearing for subaru so I'd get it. The listings below that for "inner" and "outer" would be for a 2wd EA81 vehichle application (FWD wagon, sedan, hatch) but of course Brats never came 2wd so ignore that. What you pulled out may be the original 3 Piece setup...with 2 narrow tapper bearings and a large spacer between.....this design sometimes can spin one of the thin bearings......and is not as simple as the 1 piece, large double roller that replaces it. Subaru changed to the new style somewere around 87~88.

HDPE will deform when warm......so I don't know about that. And also the whole point of the dowel pins, and the one piece, hard steel or aluminum adapter plate......is to take the rotational load. You need the pins to locate and lock.....and you need the face of the plate to transfer the rotational force to the clamped faces..... ........This would be espescially important in a situation with plastic that you would not be able to torque it hard enough to transfer that force to the faces of the plate, engine, and trans. ALL of the rotational force would now be on the dowel pins.......and they would be in plastic. And once they start to move, the force transfers to the bolts......which have 1/2 of unsupported shaft sticking through the pastic plate......how much can half an inch of 10mm steel flex???? You'll find out. My guess is that it will work fine for the most part for some amount of time.....maybe to the first clutch change time....... I will speculate that after some use.......upon disassembly you will find the dowel pins, and the edge along one side dug in by the edge of trans/eng, the bolt holes slightly ovaled to the side the engine torques and slightly bent bolts and one HAMMMERED pilot bearing.....(not to mention the input shaft in the trans)

Sweet82?

I went to school 3 semesters at certified Collision Repair School. Didn't want to do it for a career so I am not certified.....but I have a "professional" background in this.

That's the result of the main engine harness being disconnected or having bad connection. It is what they do.....not sure why excactly...but it's what they do.

Cracked head. Not the regular little between teh valves but actually in the Exhaust port. Coolant drips directly into exhaust. The turbo EA82 engines all do that.

If you stop at 400 you will have swirleys and scrathes visible in the color. First coat of primer needs some texture to adhere to plastic filler, metal, and original paint.........but after that it doesn't need to be rough for primer, sealer, and color to adhere.......you want the smoothest finish possible for the best results. If you want to see mirror image under the clearcoat when your done.........Finish with 1000 or or even 1500 before sealer. The sealer will adhere wonderfully to the primer as it's really the same paint w/ a reducer added to make a scratch free. that's the point of sealer......you don't sand it before spraying color.....this is standard technique.......So why do you think the primer needs "scratched" before basecoat? I don't wet sand anything but Clearcoat. The epoxy primer sands well and with fewer clumps dry sanding.......gotta do small amounts and tap out the clumps from the paper every so often.

Unless your brat has A/C installed.......you don't have a Fan relay. Read my writeup in the USRM about the EA81 blower power supply. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140176-ea81-blower-circuit-jumperrelay-connection/?do=findComment&comment=1179606

You'll be fine. Put the brand new one, and the other best one on the front...it will quickly wear some....then rotate it after 1000 miles.

The lifter switch was in 97....along with the interference pistons and cam. Single port began in 96......Roller cam, hydro lifter last year of dual port is 95........Roller follower cam, but still hydro lifter. 90-94 Dual port, flat follower, hydro lifters. If you really want the roller/solid lifters you can use the cams and rocker set from a 97 or 98 2.2 (99 the whole heads changed) So, it seems you should be looking for a 94 or 95 motor. (you could get a 90-93 but I think you need a "newer" motor to qualify in CA)