Gloyale

I use a canned rust stop product from Napa for all my rust treatment. Dries hard and black, keeps the rust from flaking. Then I use PPG "Shopline" or "Omni" Epoxy primer( about $200 for 1 gal. primer and 2 quarts hardener to spray 1.5 gallons) First coat, sand with 220, then 320.......then spray second coat......sand with 400, then 600, then 800 and up to 1000 or 1500 depending on just how "flat" you want the final look under the color. Then I use the same epoxy primer, thinned 10~15% with DT870 Urethane reducer.....and spray it as a sealer. Then Base coat/Clear coat...........or Enamel coat. I preffer Base/Clear. Enamels can be finicky....and in my experience more likely to chip deeply......whereas the base clear will just scratch and can be buffed out.

You can doubt it. But that is what it is. I have "fixed" 3 , '99 models and 1 2000 Forresters by simply replacing htat seal. What happens is that pressure for TC gets dumped.....robbing pressure from the clutch plates for a moment......eventually the accumulator bottoms out and dumps full pressure.......and SLAM.....the forward movement begins. The other contributor to this issue, to a lesser extend....is the small barrel shaped seal between the valve body and Brake band body. That one is much harder to get to....but the ones I've done only one did I need to replace that seal.....the others were nearly fully corrected with just the input shaft seal.

That block is done for. Cannot "fix" a spun sleeve they are cast in not pressed. If you can get to the both pins on the other half the block will split. Otherwise.......remove all the case bolts. Wedge the block halves apart to where you can acess 1 nut each on the 2 and 4 con rods. Then shove the halves back toghether, rotate 180 degrees, and seperate them again and you can access the other 2 nuts for the 2 and 4 con rods. Comes apart after that.

Main engine connector at the back of engine. This is the symptoms exhibited when the main connector is unplugged, or making poor contact.

you must keep a matched set of ring and pinion gears. Must use a set from a PT box. AWD EJ pinion will not work. the EJ ones are not any stronger than the EA. they are identical type ring and pinion gear only the length and diameter of the pinion shaft changed EA to EJ.

That would make noise with clutch pedal depressed (enigne spinning, input shaft still) the noise he describes is when clutch pedal is released in nuetral. (engine spinning, input shaft spinning) which in that state the Pilot bearing is stationary since input and flyhweel are turning toghether

Could be the input shaft bearing in the trans. Change the gear oil again and add some lucas with the new stuff. If it gets worse, or you find large amounts of metal in the fluid......tear open the trans, and replace the large bearing on the rear of the upper shaft.

If you read the add it says it has been "resprayed" meaning painted in the last 2 years.......and already says there is some rust spots bubbling through. It's a winter driven car in Michigan. It DEFINATELY has rust. It's just been concealed under a shiny wrap......but the cancer is growing within it every single day and eventually the car will crumble.

EA81 cars actually had a bypass valve built into the heater box. Same concept as your drawing.......flow into the heater when you want.....full bypass around heater core when switched.......always full flow to the engine. He won't have a blend door.....and as anyone living in hot weather climates without A/C can tell you.........a full flow heater core still warms the car. I can feel the area at the bottom of the console radiating heat on warm days, even with the blower off and blend door on cold. There can definately sometimes a need to "turn off" the coolant flow to the heater core. That said.......the valves are often one of the things that starts leaking.........and losing coolant is worse than being a bit warm or cold.....so it's a risk to install a valve. Probably why subaru gave up on them in starting with EA82s

Not an issue with a turbo......the turbo is the backpressure......after that you want as little restriction as possible.

Nice car......Kinda high priced I would think. I would think $2~3K would be tops it could garner, espescially in the mid-west market where 200K miles and 25 years old is considered "old junk" I think the owner is confusing "money spent" with what the "what is it worth?" Mods to the EA82t are a negligible wash........sure they are expensive "upgrades".....but it's polish on the turd.............not really worth anything cause that motor will poop out sometime soon. The very least reliable subaru engine ever.....(barely eeks out the win over EJ25d) And it's in the rust belt. Surely sees action in the salted winter snow. Won't last another 10 years. Biggest upgrades that add value are the 5 lug swap, wheels and paint.....otherwise seems like a pretty much stock turbo loyale. I guess the Roof rack and Lights are worth a few hundred $. For a lower price it would be a SWEET ride.......but for THAT price, you'd be better of finding an unmolested, Non rusted (west coast) stock, non-turbo and EJing it.

It's an 87......are you sure it's FI? the 4wd models in that year were all Carbed.......if it's 2wd it will be FI. Process of replacement is the same either way.

Yes that can cause issues. Probably why it skipped. So you are saying you swapped Grey and Black injectors around? in the same fuel rail? I would not think that could work........the lower seat is different I though.....perhaps that was your constant smoke? leaking fuel around the lower seat?

Hmm......I am suspect of these numbers. You are still running stock forrester/outback struts. They don't have 12" of travel.....no matter what linkage/trailing arms you run. Max would be about 9" if you can make the strut rod travel it's full stroke.....although I think the Coil spring compresses to nearly solid before the strut rod will bottom out. In reallity I'd be surprised if there was 8" of total travel. It's a beautiful setup.....nice car.......Not trying to knock anyones work.......Just putting a slightly more skeptical eye on things.

Retainer ring sets the bearing preload for the front diff, and it's position. Mark it and reinstall to the same location and you will be fine. Spin it out, change seal, spin it back in/

I will see what I have sittingn round I think gary was talking about grinding the shims you have......which is something I guess he's done but I don't like the sound of it. No way to make sure you get it flat, and then if it spins in the bucket (which they do) the clearnace will change as it goes round.......plus it could put uneven wear ont eh cam lobe. BUt..........it may not be enough of an issue to worry.....it certainly would work better than a tight valve. Like i said....I'll see what i've got.......tons of EJ25d heads sitting round with bent valves.

What you are feeling is not bearing slop. It's a combination of play in the splines of CV onto stub, and Stub into spider gear of diff carrier. There really is no fix for that other than to disassemble the trans, replace the spider gears and the stubs. I doubt that slop is your issue. I would suggest tierods, balljoints, Struts, and A-arm and Radius Bushings.

Which rig? My XT did require custom axles. Isuzu trooper outer joint mated to EA81 axle and inner cup.

You can coat the threads with "the Right Stuff" rtv. it won't leak after that unless you remove or adjust it again.

No they did not. Entirely unibody. That frame is from something else.

You're not gonna come CLOSE to competing with that thing with leafs. But if you look at that thing, it has a truck frame under it. I used the front half of an Isuzu trooper and custom built the back part of the frame for my T-cased XT. on 33's. still all independant. Build threadhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142045-trooparu/?hl=trooparu

It actually stands for Engine Control System.........Not Emissions. If it doesn't light up when you turn the key to "ON" before starting.....then you likely have a non-feeback, carbuerated model with no computerized Engine Control System........so it's unused and you can ignore it. If that is the case, you WILL have an EGR warning light that will come on every 60k miles to remind you to clean out the EGR valve. Different light than ECS.

85 GL is carbuerated, so will not have a CEL or ECS light...(unless it's from CA..then will have "feedback" carb) Proper ignition timing (including advance....can't have sticking weights), proper mixture, and a good catalytic converter will be the most important things to passing Emmisions. I can tell you get the enginge (and CAT) very good and warmed up before testing...the hotter the cat....the better it works....(to a point..then it melts...but that won't happen if your engine is OK)

Kidding? I hope. Really this just sounds like a linkage issue to me. I would have the shift linkage inspected......If it still goes into reverse the trans is fine....just need to get whatever is jamming the shifter out.

NO! You will need to either cut a notch in the bracket to slip the line out (and cut new strut bracket to reinstall line) Or you need to disconnect the brakeline from the caliper.