Gloyale

If you are talking about the wire that is attached to the body in front of the battery....that wire should go to the engine block.....or more correctly, to the bolt that is attached to the end of the Water pump extension tube. There is a ground eyelet in the Coil wiring harness that also gets bolted to the same point. Has nothing to do with the radiator or the radiator fan....just gives ground to the body from engine.

92-94 OBD I ECU pinout is the same only engine connector changed to only 2 instead of 3.

Were are you located? Perhaps a local board member could give you a hand. Problem is most shops don't know anything about Carbs, Vacuum advance distributors, etc.... If they can't put it on an OBD II scanner they don't know where to start. In fairness though.....I often will not give any kind of quote for work on a car I've never seen or serviced before, espescially a 30+ year old one.......you just don't know what you will find so it's not fair to the owner or the mechanic to set a price down until you can inspect the car a bit to get an idea of it's condiiton. I.E. still mostly stock, or chopped and bastardized......makes a difference in what it will need. You may be better off just spending alot of time here learning and work on it yourself.

Of course you can do it. Mark holes, drill. bolt it on. How clean it comes out and if it leaks are dependand upon how well you mark, remvoe headliner or not, and what type of sealant used (the RIght Stuff) I've bolted 2003 Legacy outback rack onto 90 Legacy L.

Carbed heads have ports for Air Suction Valve tubes at the bottom on the side of the Exhaust outlet. You can drill and tap if needed or just delete the ASV system if leaving carbed.

What was the code #? ISC solenoid doesn't sound right......not sure what you mean? There are 3 solenoids on that car.... Fast Idle...(FICD in subaru manual) EGR solenoid Fuel Vent Solenoid.

no.....there is no difference in the switches or column assemblies

EA81 cars had a grounded radiator, and used a one wire thermoswitch that connected to the radiator ground when hot to activate the fan. References in haynes or chiltons manuals to a radiator ground are from the EA81 era. EA82 cars.......do not have this....the thermoswitch has 2 wires one of which is direct to ground....the other goes to the fan - so when the switch closes the fan turns on. EJ radiators have a relay that is controlled by the ECU..not a thermoswitch.

Looks like an 85-89 GL or 90-94 Loyale column. (same car....changed name in 90) The cylinder can be removed....theoretically by pushing a small pin into the hole on the bottom side........OR.........the whole assembly can be removed. The heads that look like rivets holding the ignition are actually bolts with no heads. By using a left threaded drill bit......or by cutting a slot in them with a dremel and using a flathead....then the whole piece can be removed and swapped.

I always use "the Right Stuff" from permatex. O-ring works fine as long as it's proper size........and you get the pan seated tight (no gasket) On that same topic sort of........I have also pulled pans that the tube had been pushed "down" into the pan....most likely from the pan being flipped upside down and leaned on while cleaning..........this forces the sealing lip to be further down....and not fully seal to the block....no matter what o-ring or seal you use.

Mass Airflow Sensor or related issue. Got all the intake ports connected for PCV and IAC?

I also offer this service. Private Message me on this board for a price.

Did you make sure to put a new o-ring on the vent/pcv drain back tube in the back corner of the pan?

bummer. I sold my last set of d/r gears to a board member in Alabama I believe. Someone here should have them.....or I could give you part #s to try through subaru but might not be avail. anymore.

Brakes on front may be too large to fit with 16"

NO arrows.......NO. the crank gear has a hash mark on one of the tabs on it's BACK.......it will be lined up straight upwards when the crank keyway is straight down. Then put the Cam sprockets so the hash marks are straight up. NOT ARROWs....the hash marks are on the outer edge....not the middle part of Cam sprocket.

If they reasealed the oil pan they may not have used a new O-ring at the back of the pan. That o-ring seals the "drain back" tube that is supposed to be sealed, and submerged at it's bottom in liquid oil.........when this o-ring leaks it can suck oily vapors from near the bottom of the pan. I would suggest perhaps pulling the pan and resealing it??

Any good rubber o-ring of a correct size will work. Or use a bead of "the Right Stuff" sealant.....it cures to a rubber like solid. I've used it to replace O-rings before.

Those look like a reflector halogen.........not a true HID. Which would be better actually. True HIDs use alot of power.....might strain the old 55 amp Alternator and wiring......let alone the headlight wiring. Plus they are obnoxious if you ask me. I've had good luck simply running new relay and wires to my headlights.....triggered by the original switch/wiring. New bulbs and new wires straight to lights from battery and ground to engine block gets full 14v to the bulbs then even stockers are clear and bright.

That valve is for rollover. Fuel should flow out of the largest of the 3 lines when unplugged. the smallest line is the fuel return. the vent is slightly larger, and runs up to the filler neck area.

Code 3 is a model designator. Means MPFI, turbo, Manual.........in the US it can tell us California or 49 state, manual or automatic The ECUs will flash 1-8 here, with each number being a specific identifier. Since it's flashing that at you it means there is no stored codes.

Left headlight Fuse or Relay is not working. Left is dim because it's backfeeding voltage from the right side. Also makes sense I think the left side /relay also power the Runnning light circuit. I'm guessing the relay cause it supplies both fuse 6 (lighting) and fuse 7 (LH headlights) It has a green connector up under dash group of four relays to left of steering column.

It's not a matching color thing.......the wiring on the body side won't match the colors on the disty. Do you have your 87.5 disty with it's matching connector(round)? If so you CAN swap connector with an 88 or newer disty (square) by simply matching colors on the distys.......the colors on the body harness will not match. FWIW...the wires that you need to swap pins to make 87 work with 88 or vice versa.......are the Green and the White wires AT THE DISTY side. Not sure what colors excactly on the body harness......again, changed a bit over the years.

Perhaps a TPS not adjusted correct? (throttle position sensor)

OK......I am getting the feeling you have been offended somehow........I never said I knew where your switch was hooked up.... I said FWIW.......meaning I didn't know just suggesting IF you had it hooked to interlock that would not be correct...OK? Now let me set you straight on a few things....Not because I want to have conflict or treat you like a dummy.......but to share ACCURATE information which is my only motivation for even being here. I do not care personally about you........But your Subaru and all other Subaurs I have real passion for, get it? 1) The ECU harness does NOT ground to the chassis....not to the strut tower. ALL ECU grounds and sensor grounds for the ECU go to the ENGINE INTAKE MANIFOLD. I strip harnesses to bare engine running items. I have done dozens. I have FSM's.....I read them like classic literature. 2) Also the battery grounds directly to the engine......with a smaller wire to the chassis but that one is always corroded. Do a volt drop test from the Engine block to the Chassis...you will see at least a 1/2 volt. 3) Your posts are so flippin confusing and horribly punctuated that we can't really tell what the hell codes you are experiencing and what current state you have it all wired in. If you had never mentioned the Interlock.....or called it a Nuetral SAFETY switch....I would not have mentioned anything about it......but since you did....I tried to clarify your jumbled mess into an accurate piece of information for this forum. 4) what the hell are you talking about the TCU???? all wiring to the TCU is parallel not series......you do not need to have a TCU in place to ground the ECU. So........yeah.......good luck.