Gloyale

So....You got the box open and the synchro is shot??? if all you did was disassemble it.....you should be able to reassemble the D/R shift collar and synchro. I can probably post a schematic of the input shaft if you need a visual reference to reassemble. Got any pictures???

Classic VC binding. Sometimes it actually the spider gears locking against the carrier.....not the VC itself. But eitehr way just swap another center diff in. It's real easy jsut remove the sifter U-joint, and the rear most cover on the trans and pull it out.

I offered the information as a "For What It's Worth" I did not know how you had it wired up...... However........You somewhat imply that it's locked with the starter when you refer to it as a "nuetral SAFETY switch"........as though it somehow kept you from doing something that is "unsafe".....like starting the car in gear........some vehichles DO have this type of interlock....but I can't think of one. So you see it should be at very least just the "ns".......not "nss".........It is simply a Nuetral switch.......to inform the ECU.........nothing "Safety" about it. Anyhow.....I would say that the NS should be grounding to the engine grounding....not the chassis. The factory setup it joins the main ground lines for the ECU....which all tie to a bolt on the intake manifold. Grounding to the body may be causing a volt drop that the ECU doesn't like or recognize. Difference in voltage will cause pin 82 to not drop to zero.

???? either car in good condition is capable of nearly the same mileage.......in fact.....the best mileage subaru wagon I ever had was an 86 carbed. Loyales don't have a D/R.....which is his whole point. I do agree though that it might be better to buy a wagon in the PNW........less chance of rust.....but then again they are getting hard to find for that cheap anymore.

That is a one wire Knock sensor used for later, optical pickup, ECU controlled MPFI. You need a 2 wire one.

Okay.....we need to get this straight. The optical disty....4 wire......no "pickup coil" or wires visible under cap.......can only be used with the 4 plug ECU.....Okay? Now.....with the 3 plug ECU.......the ignition doesn't even run through the ECU at all. The Ignition timing is controlled by the Knock Computer....seperate unit entirely. This is correct......You could run a 2 wire carbed disty with the 3 Plug ECU. Or you could run Knock control on a Carbed engine using 4 wire magnetic pickup disty (early MPFI w/vac advance) So....you need to see if the car has a Knock Computer and it's wiring......it comes from a seperate loom though the Right side of the car (passenger in U.S.)

Sounds like you got either an 87 disty or an 87 ECU 87 is the on;y year where the pins in the ECU for Ref. volts and Signal volts. are reversed compared to all later FI ECU's Swapping the white and green wires at the disty is the simple way to correct the problem.

no does not have the ability to directly fire the coil.....even if it could there would be no advance. you are confused as to how the optical disties work.....there is no "coil trigger wires" the wires are as follows. Power supply ground reference volts pulse volts. the ECU interprets these signals and then fires the coil accordingly. you need a disty with an actual pickup coil inside.........and a vacuum advance.

this 86 will be carbed....no neutral switch just the 4wd and reverse switches to wire up. reverse wires are green and green/white can't remember 4wd wires but will be different than the 3at wiring but just really one pin of the AT shifter wires needs connected to 4wd switch grounds light in dash when in 4wd. 83 2wd to 4wd is a harder swap. must change gas tank, rear suspension subframe, trailing arms, shocks, and add mustache bar mounts. if using 5spd must make carrier bearing mount. as mentioned need 4wd radius rod plates.....or modify the 2wd ones to take an EA82 5spd crossmember, since that will need modified anyhow to use the 5spd.

this is for EA81 cars. we are talkin EA82 in this thread.

86 4wd will be carbed. If it's a California car it will be an ECU controlled, feedback carb....which you don't want. also much wiring and connectors changed between 86 and 88. What I would do is get the 86 cheap, and strip it for parts..... easier to put a D/R and all the lights and goodies into the DL (the quad beam is superior lighting and easily replacement bulbs!) than to put the SPFI On the carbed car. I would not even consider towing one subaru behind another over those mountains......not worth the risk at all. Strip one car.....scrap the body for cash and get a small utility trailer if you need to haul parts. 2000lbs is MAX you should try to pull over the rockies and cascades. and that will be a challenge.

You;ve got an optical disty there. It's for use with late EA82 turbo, or SPFI like we got in the states. That disty will not work without a 4 plug MPFI ECU and harness. FWIW, the wires are red= power supply black = shield white = reference voltage Green = pulse voltage

They will work fine. lugnuts align the wheel. IF there was force being transfered to the hub centre ......it would mean your lugnuts are not tight enough.

It is okay to ground one side of the neutral switch. It's just the one pin at the ECU that either sees ground or not to know when car is in gear. FWIW, the neutral switch is not connected to the starter interlock.....or it should not be anyhow......neutral switch is just for ECU to know if car is in gear.....not a starter lockout. Must put the automatic speed sensor in the MT trans. Fairtax may be correct that you will need to put the EGR manifold back on to get rid of that code.

Redo the belt using the hash marks on the pulleys......not the arrow (arrows are for valve adjusting) TDC will be with the crank pulley key straight down at 6 o'clock......install the belt with the crank pulley like that and the notches on the Cams up.

there is a cover plate on teh top of the tailsection. 4 bolts remove it to examine the 4wd shift collar/fork. there are 2 shafts that get interlocked by a set of spring and "pill" shaped pins. If the D/R select rod gets twisted while pulling it can cause the fork to blow out....basically breaking...so the interlock pin will not let the shaft grab the 4wd fork. gotta just inspect and see.....all the pieces can be replaced with the trans toghether....in or out of the car.

Last I saw him he was in driving an 06 Siverado HD 2500 Duramax. Pretty big jump up from sub-$1000 subarus. He's takin care of his family just fine it seems. He left an unfinished pile o' crap in somebodies backyard IN THE SAME TOWN HE LIVES IN!!! Distance, time......doesn't matter........Never trust anyone who calls himself any kind of "Rat".

If it's a wagon there is no "inside release". if it's a sedan....it will be there next to the gas release. The plastic may have broken, so all you will see is a small metal bar that had the plastic tab on it.

Fuel cut because speedometer sensor is not working. replace the speedo sensor on the side of the transmission

This works but you'll find that the passenger side mount is under strain.....twisted.

Does the Loyale have A/C? or did it have it any parts left? Biggest obstacle is the high pressure side line. You must have a custom line made at an A/C shop. Use the Compressor end that matches the EJ compressor, and the body side that matches the Loyale body. Everything else is pretty much hook it up and charge it. The "pulse amplifier" will need to be replaced with a standard relay.

I do know there are 2 different sizes of hole in the bellhousings. Starters have a cast ring that seats into the hole, some are small and some are larger.........can't really say which is which but there are basically 2 types of subaru starters.

Too bad......There were no XTs there. You'd have won first place! Keep working on it.

8062 25100 is the original '85 parts catalog #.........may have superceded to a new number. It's the same bearing used all the way up through mid-2000s in the AWD 5spds.