Gloyale

Excactly. One reason I can see is that subaru Imported ALL of their cars in 85,86 as "L" models specifically "DL" or "GL" or "GL-10" models...........All of them........XT's, Brats, hatches......and EA82 wagons, coupes and sedans.......all technically are "DL" or "GL" or "GL-10" primarily........then submodeled as XT, or Brat, or wagon.....whatever. And to top it off both of the engines types that SHOULD be able to be used to identify each platform.......are 1.8 with the same bore/stroke so there is very little distinction in the catalogs.......sometimes they will ask OHV or OHC?.......which is like asking EA81 or EA82? In 87 the XT became it's own model..so parts get SLIGHTLY easier to find for them..but that's about it. So that leaves 85,86 as the WORST possible years to look up parts for.........so many variations........2 completley different 1.8 engines........4 different fueling variations..........I don't know what I would do without my factory 85 parts catalog

Welcome to the board. Subarus are awesome for the north woods winters! I used to drive from Kenosha to visit a friend in Wassua just for fun.....I would wait for the blizzard and head out in the A.M. before the plows!

Yes......but with a brighton cluster you will lose the one working thing you have......the tach. Brightons don't have them.

Ughh... Timken Sucks. Americans trying to do metric.........and crappy seals too......the Febest kit would be better. Koyo FTW......can't beat the OE product.

This is incorrect. None of the 4spds ever had a 1" (24 spline) input. the 83+ Ea81 4wds all us the 225mm(8 7/8ths) with the 21 spline(7/8ths) input shaft. EA82's started in the US in 85.......that's why the listings get screwy in the overlapping years from 85-87 (89 for hatches).

Should have researched before pulling things apart. You cannot replace the Input seal on a Dual Range, or any 5spd subaru trans.....without spliting the case. Now, you've seperated the Dual range gear synchro/collar set. You will have to open the case to reset the Dual range pieces of the input shaft. A quick search of the subject will bring you to my writeup on front seal replacement. It's for a Single range AWD, but the basics are the same. Notably, you will need to loosen the reverse lockout cylinder to get access to the lockbolt for the shift selector. Other than that the "splitting" process is the same. Oh yeah....you will also need to remove the rod along the side of the case for the D/R, and pop the pin out of the lever above the front diff so the case half can slide over the hi/lo selector.

Well.....the XT is an EA82 platform car. And often parts for them get grouped in as they were technically part of the DL/GL series. The XT radiator is very close. could be made to fit pretty easily but not ideal. I do not have a good part # for the dual core radiator. From the searching I've done, the aftermarket has superseded to a 1 row, aluminum radiator......that supposedly has more cooling capacity than the OE 2 row, brass radiator.

Just split the trans case and put 23 spline stubs in there. Done. Spliting the box is easy. See my writeup on "easy front seal replacement. If all you do is swap stubs....there will not really be any need to measure shims/clearances etc.....just open it.......swap stubs....and seal it back up. Teh transfer gears do not need to be messed with.....the whole tailsection comes off as a unit just have to remove lock screw from shift selector shaft and rotate it out of the shift rods. Do that job once.......then you will be able to run any EA81 axle you can get anywhere.

This isn't accurate. I have a Manual trans, non-turbo XT with the original radiator and it's a 2 core. The water pump lengths haven nothing to do with radiator thickness.........either length pump ends up with the pulley and fan at the same distance from the motor.....it's just the mounting style of the clutch fan the varies so length of pump is changed to accomodate but either length pump with the CORRECT matching pulley will end up the same distance from radiator.

Our 5spds here all used 25 spline in the diff, and step down to 23 spline output for the axle stub. If you split your 5spd case.....you could use a set of the stubs we got here in ours then use stock brat/brumby/ea81 axles. I have a set of stubs I could ship you if you would like to go that route. I have done the reverse swap to use a standard L series Dual range in a newer Legacy(liberty) car with standard legacy axles.

Fronts you can use "outback" parts from 96-2004......and possibly the 05+ stuff but the front strut mount to knickle may be different. Rear shocks/coilovers from the 05 outback XT will work on your 04......but anything 99 or earlier will be WAAAAY different in the rear.

Jerry's kits are amazing.......and you can't go wrong with them. The hard part for me is making the money to cover the check.

What other car/engine could you any more easily change motor mounts???? Subaru engines are some of the lightest in the automotive world......and the mounts can be removed easily from underneath with a single 14mm socket and wrench. They could have made it alot harder......believe me.........Ever try to change a motor mount on a Volvo or Mercedes???? Or even a Nissan or Honda.......all of those engines mounting are a BEAOOCH to change. To me that seems simple as can be.......FWIW, you do not need to remove radiator or fans.....just be sure lifting up engine that you don't over stretch the radiator hoses.

Tranny is likely fine. Flat towing is ok......on a dolly with 2 wheels up is not. Get a new engine. If it's been driven hot to the point of quiting, the block is toasted......so are the heads for sure. Get a 95 2.2 litre from an automatic car..........Drop in plug n' play.........no other modification needed. other 2.2s will work but require little things changed like intake wiring or EGR or exhaust header......but a 95, 2.2 from an automatic transmission legacy will DIRECTLY bolt in.

yup that's got all of it. as long as it truely is 4wd/AWD

Grind EA82 flywheel step to .815 to increase clamp force. This is the spec for the XT6 flywheel should already be at.....so using the xt6 clutch with it should be fine. (most companies only make one clutch set for EA82 4wd/XT6 anyhow) I've taken an EA82 flywheel to .810 step for my lifted, EJ22 rig. and it works great still.

If he purchased pre-made parts that fit the car I can almost see the prices..........about 30% too high but that's his markup I guess. He could have bent and welded tubing for less money......but then the labor would be higher. $135 is low for that labor......not even 2 hours when it probaly took 3 to do the job, and would have been 4 or 5 to bend parts from blank tube. Customers often complain more about high labor charges, than high parts cost.......so he's just adjusting the "look" of the bill still making hte same money. New England is the worst for rust.........so I would probably charge 30% more too.

Same work as a EJ swap for less power EJ22 FTW

This means the disty is likely good. No. Just remove the dropping resitor (if there is one) Give the coil 12v.....and hook the 2 electronic disty wire to the coil....Black to + Yellow to -......done. No need to swap anything else......there is no ECU, no seperate ignition module...I've swapped Points and electornic distributors around lots. Easy.

This is BS. Starting in late 83 the brat got the larger 225mm clutch disc. Still with 21 splines (7/8ths") The bellhousings are all the same.....the 2 types can be swapped back and forth........just must use the matching size flywheel and PP and disc. TimberTiger...that PP is wrong, shouldn't have those ears.

Get an impreza and put a turbo motor in that. The old EA turbo motors are weak, finicky, hard to find, harder to get parts for......Obsolete.....collectors items......make less horses than a stock 2.2 And any of the EJ turbos won't fit without chopping(except EJ22t....hard to find, expensive when you do unless your lucky) and all of them you'd have to chop the crossmember. You'd need a new trans too.....the 3at won't hold EJ turbo power Not to mention that at this point it's a waste of a Brat.......which left alone or lightly modified will on;y get more valvuebale........ Hack it up trying to stuff some turbo EJ in there will decrease it's value....... The suspension and brakes are not adequate for the performance of an EJ turbo motor. If you really want to swap it and still be able to drive it nad actually be able to finish the project without running out of money or hacking the crap out of your brat put a Non-turbo 2.2 or maybe SOHC 2.5 but don't bother with turbo unless you have big $$$ and lot's of time, and you don't care about ruining the collector value of the car.

An EA82 5spd crossmember can be modified to fit were the 4spd one would bolt up. Basically you have to cut the ends off....narrowing it by about 4" Then weld on plates with 2 holes each side to mount to the 4spd crossmembers location........done. I ussually make and mount the 2 plates to the body.......then jack the cut crossmember up against them where it needs to sit and then tack weld......remove and final weld, reinstall..... In my opinion easier than modifying the 4spd crossmember and mounts.

He's full o' crap. Grab ANY EA81 distributor and put it in. The Electronic pickup is all contained in the disty....just hook the Yellow wire to - and the black/white wire to + on coil...............Give the coil 12v and your good. Let me ask though......is the Tachometer jumping even slightly when you crank over the engine???........if it is then the disty is good and the problem is something else.......probably fuel...... Sounds to me like your hitachi just needs a clean out and reseal.......they only are "shot" when the throttle shaft bushing get REALLLLLY bad.........90% of them are still fine once cleaned/resealed......

Clogged emulsion tubes Take off top of carb, remove tubes and blow them out. Remove plugs from bottom of bowl and blow out jets reseal air horns with new o-rings, and new accelarator pump.

Use locktite on the bolts for the ring gear......and get them TIGHT..... Make sure after reassembly that there is not excessive backlash or no backlash......you want it to be just a red hair's width of backlash.