Gloyale

EA82 Turbo heads crack in a particular way........worse than the regular "Between the Valves" BTV cracks. The turbo heads crack in the exhaust ports.....right above the outlet port on the bottom of the head. Finding an uncracked head is very hard.....getting harder.....e.pxensive.....and eventually that head will crack. Only really worth it for an EJ swap........the MPFI cars are good canditates for EJ swap since they already have the high pressure fuel pump, and an easy spot to hook up VSS, TACH, Nuetral sw., CEL, etc.....Plus disk brakes in the rear.

They bolt on but the depth of the splined section is wrong. EA82 hubs will bolt onto EA81 knuckles........ but the cotter pin is in the wrong spot, too far up the shaft so won't really lock the castle.....not without an extra washer. and your brake rotors ride too close to one side of the cage......will start rubbing when the brakes get half worn.....(unless you fully swap the whole EA82 knuckle and brake calipers) EA81 hubs will bolt to an EA82 but the castle nut will not go on far enough to reach cotter pin hole Snatched, I ve got some hubs too if you need them.

Yes can be done easy but won't hold up too well to 2.5 power for the long haul. but if you want to do it require adapter plate, modified crossmember, redrilled flywheel, and custom length driveline and shifter....not too hard really.

leaving Corvallis now. See ya'll at the Show!!!

Adam N.D.J. >> My group will be leaving the Corvallis area at 7:45 am.....Just me and a buddy......Each in 6" lifted EA81 cars. If things work out we could meet at the interstate exit 228 for Corvallis (HW 34) around 8? I will be on CB channel 27 or 31...whichever is more clear and open. My cell phone is 541-207-6544.....call to arrange if you are close to the area at that time.......otherwise we'll see you in Portland, or at the show. Anyone else from south of Corvallis/Albany also welcome to call me/caravan with.

Yeah......My lifted EA81 is actually one of his past abortions........ I purchased it from a guy who Mudrat was supposed to be lifting it for him.........I guess he forgot to finish it......left it in shambles in the guys back yard in Eugene. I bought it for $300 with a the motor and tranny ripped out......the front suspension hacked and chopped crossmember had BullSheet engine mounts welded to it.....IDK iguess he was gonna t-case it??? Anyhow......The last piece of his old lift blocks in the rear broke recently so I finally have De-mudratted it. It's now a Fully "HighGuys" lifted rig. Gotta respect he loves Subarus.....but that's about all the respect he gets from me. He does still live in Eugene and I have seen him a few times in the last year. Randomly.

IIRC there is supposed to be a steel ring pressed on there. I will look today at my shop.......EA81 or EA82? assuming 4wd???

Cooper There has got to be a local cooper tire dealer near you....and they are the best value for a good balance of wear, and handling, and traction.

All the cylinders have cracks between the valves......it's an EA82 Headgasket should be changed......that is what is leaking not the BTV cracks. SHort bolts in short holes, long ones in deep ones........pretty self explainitary Bolts and washers should be cleaned before reinstall..........but NEED TO BE OILED with clean oil before installation..On the threads, and on the washer surface..........this is per the subaru FSM and is a standard practice.......if you don't oil them you risk friction replaceing torque and giving you a false "click" on the torque wrench before the head is fully clamped tight.

Okay.....>We need to determine if this car is Carbed or SPFI....... Being an 87 it could be either.........2wds and 4wd CALI spec cars will be SPFI, 49 state 4wds will be Carbed. First thing to ckeck with either is the throttle cable....is it too tight??? If not....then again Carb vs. SPFI could be different things. Carbed: IF it's not the linkage.....it's likely a vac leak......or an air bleed leak(slight difference) the air bleeds are the slightly larger tubes that come from the top of the carb to the valve on the pass side of the intake........This valve is supposed to at idle nearly close the main secondary air bleeds, and to open the Primary Slow air bleed (these are the ports that meter enrichment)........If those hoses, or the vavle are missing......or if the small "orifice" pellets have been taken out of the tubes......the car will pull too much air through the bleed.......causing a high, but lean idle. SPFI: IAC hose loose, weak, crakced, or the IAC stuck open.......check by pinching the IAC tube closed and if the idle drops that's the problem. Idle can be adjusted using screw behind IAC passenger side of the TB

Technically you are supposed to swap the plug into the other connector shown.....in this case the other green. you flip flop that connector every 60k miles........oh yeah and you are supposed to clean the EGR valve at that time too......that's kinda the whole point....... Leaving it disconnected is fine too.....I think like that it won't ever turn on again Awesome Music..........Heart O' Glass..........was a nice treat with my mornin JOe!

Stupid Waste of $200 dollars. If it makes any slight amount more power, it will be at the expense of proper filtration.....the air it sucks will be warmer.......and dirtier. Stupid

You do not need to lower the trans to the ground.......Simply slide it back few inches.........leave the crossmember there so it can rest on it and support the front diff portion with a floorjack. And it's not probably...it's COMPLETELY true you do not need to undo the LCA.....that would be more work.....how is that easier??? Bottom line if you want to undo the fewest bolts, and not worry about losing Coolant or disconnecting fuel lines, power steering pump, Alternator wiring, etc...... You pull the trans.......back......not all the way out.

So......only like a 1200% markup over the first estimate.......lol

Yeah they suck too. Although with them SOMETIMES......you get an NOK seal in the TImken box........but ussually it's a National or a No Name. I am a stickler for Japanese parts. I order through World Pac though so I'm spoiled.

You do not need to remove the control arm to drop the trans out the bottom. Just pop the roll pins.......and while you are sliding the trans back after about 2" the axles have enough room to pop off. The way I do a clutch in these is to seperate the trans mounts......so the tranny can slide back leaving the crossmember in place.......I slide the tranny back about 6" total and that is enough room to get in to the clutch PP bolts. 2 hours tops........no need for tranny jack or special tools other than clutch pilot.

That trans can be repaired......I've done 2 in the last 6 months. about $550 is what I charge including the parts. The bearing itself is only about $120 from subaru, or can be scavenged from any good 5spd.

You can install a 3 wire and hack it. I did this on my wheeler for an idle up switch for winch/jumpstarting..... So this is how. 1. run 12v+ Ig. switched to the center pin of 3 wire IAC 2. Connect the center pin of a SP-DT Switch to ground. 3. Connect the other 2 pins to the IAC pins 1 and 3. Now this is for the basic idle/up idle down.....When the switch is flipped one way.....the "OPEN" side(pin 1of IAC) is connected to ground so the gate swings open increasing idle. Flip the switch the other way, and the "closed" side is grounded (pin 3 of IAC). Now this is the weird part.......The ECU will not like having no idle control...and will throw a code.......here's the hack for that MT: Connect a small incadesant bulb...(turn signal or marker) between the Original 2 wires from the ECU to the IAC........this will keep the ECU happy mostly that it sees a load it thinks is the IAC vavle. AT: Connect 2 small bulbs, (or a Dual filament bulb) Each bulb (or filament) shall be connected to a power source on one side.....and 1 each grounded by the 2 original IAC wires that come from pins 1 + 2 of the ECU....so the ECU sees 2 coil circuits it thinks are the IAC. *NOte* When using the idle up function.......after a certain amount of time.....or whenever fully warm already......the ECU will CUT FUEL to the #1 cylinder at idle.......since it senses the idle RPMS are higher than it should be....but can't control it (it'll try....fun to watch bulb light and dim) So this will result in a slight "loping" or "miss" with the throttle closed at idle.....but the switch flipped to "open" for idle up.......Will throw CEL during this time too but goes out after driving with switch "closed" for normal, warmed up, low idle. Oh yeah and also you could just block off the ports for IAC and spend 30-secs with your foot on the gas till it warms up to idle and forget about it.

Felpro is a wholesaler they buy bulk, and repackage individually for retail resale...........In this case the seal is made by National........and they aren't the greatsest seals for Subaru engines. NOK or THO are both good, Japanese seals......NOK is the maker of the OE subaru ones.

Lucky bastard!

Ground fired sequentially. Spark however is gang fired 1+2, 3+4

Yeah...well you guys got dual range and real 4wd in the newer cars.....we didn't

Tehy did. 85/86 RXs had a Dual range, Part time box with 3.7 final...shorter gears, and 25 spline stubs and 1.16 lo range 87 RX's got the "fulltime 4wd, with lockable center diff.....still dual range, 1.16 lo, short gears and 3.7 final.

12lbs is getting up there for boost. stock they make less than 10

STP is what I always run. 2827??? don't quote me on that......I know the EJs run the 2869. I always get the "oil change kit" for around $22 bucks from autozone.....with a 5quart jug of whatever good brand conventional 10-30 or 10-40 they have included that month. Buy five and the 6th is free (practically) with the Autozone reward card. ScoobieDoobie, I would inspect your motor mounts, your radiator mounts......and the condition of the lower radiator support.....you bent something or it's moving TOO much if the filter is hitting the fan.