Gloyale

You won't get any lift at all from 03 forester struts. In fact you'll lose some tire clearance as the spring perch of the rears are lower on Forester struts. Forester tophats are taller, that's where the taller stance comes from and it's on the 04+ not 03.

Just an update. checked back in with the owners of the car. It's still running like a top. There is a little "slip" in the trans between the 1-2 shift sometimes still. unrelated to the turbo i'm sure. Ammco told her it needs a full trans rebuild for $2700!!! One tiny bit of slip in the 1-2 shift......probably a seal at one of the solenoids. I told her to run it and if it gets worse I can service it or replace with a good used. Turbo shop returned our money, BUT NOT OUR CORE.........pissed about that. they say we'll get it 'soon" Anyhow, just an update to let all know that if yer "brand new" from somewhere trubo losses it's nut.....it's not always oil supply fault, sometimes it's rump roast hat service.

They would work OK on a low car already like an Impreza or a Standard Outback. It's only 40mm which is like 1-1/2 inch. Camber wouldn't be an issue. But it's nearly as easy to swap to longer Outback or Forrester struts for the same effect with added travel. Putting these on top of a strut lift would be iffy.........camber could be an issue. Putting these on a stock outback or forrester, well......it might be ok but might be an issue with camber in the rear, might need camber bolts. I used so home made HDPE, 1-1/2" spacers on my wifes 2003 Outback LL. Bean, it worked fine. Had to remove rear swaybar (could have lowered it but decided to just remove)

no gasket. Just a good air filter should work.

nah, not in a 95

If you pull the lower dash panel below the column, you can access the 2 wire, black "T" shaped connector that is for the "key in" switch. Disconnect that connector, and you will never get any chimes again. Doesn't affect anything else.

Seatbelt or door open with key in. Subies don't have headlight chime. They go off with the Ig.

99 legacy (with 2.2, not outback) has the weird double air box setup. I will bet that the second air box (long one) is probably not sealed tightly. It's often difficult to get the bottom tabs fully engaged and the whole unit tightly sealed. Take the box off and get it completely sealed, then install back onto the engine. $20 bucks say's that's yer problem.

You could use that converter box, but you will need to repin it. NOPE. Turn and Stop are separate bulbs in most japanese cars. Amber turn, Red brakes. You MUST use a converter box (basically just a few diodes) in order to use a 4-flat trailer setup on a Subaru.

Fix the fans. It will overheat without it. Hissing is likely a vacuum leak. track it down. Smoke, meh......might go away with a good drive and fresh gas. Might not.....old car could be worn rings.

Ya'll are crazy. Gonna go cutting and grinding up a mostly obsolete HVAC unit rather than undo some bolts and harness connectors? Then also cut the NEW core and tubing through firewall? God that would likely end up so screwed up and mangled, leaking cold air when it's running....gah the list of potentially messed up and NOT REPAIRABLE issues involved in approaching this way are mind boggling. Espescially in a nice clean SoCal Brat. You really think sawzalling plastic and brass while on yer back upside down, trying not to hit wires, cables, etc...., is gonna be easier than removing a few bolts? Just pull the dang dash. It comes out as a whole unit, no need to mess with the brittle plastic bezel or cluster. That's how they are made to be changed. I've literally done dozens this way and the core can be done in less than 2 hours nothing broken or cut. There are NO subarus that I am aware of (EA81,EA82, EJ cars) that can have the heater core removed without removing the dash.

LA-LAAAAAAA------ LA-LA-la-LAla-laa--The Magical Misfire Tour !!! The MAGICAL MISFIRE TOUR< IS COMING TO TAKE YOU AWAY< TAKE YOU AWAY !!! Seriously.....do a compression test. probably a valve

sounds like a bad PP

I experienced a similar situation to this recently with a clutch from the local Napa. ended up being a bad pressure plate out of the box. Hopefully it's something easy like you forgot the throwout bearing. lol But just know that it is possible to have a bad clutch set.

Crank rotates twice for every once the cams do. So there is a #TDC for compression and exhaust strokes. Well, you may have just needed to rotate another full crank turn and then it would have been correct. Sounds like you swapped it TO 180 out. You can check wether you're on compression stroke by pulling the outer timing belt covers. Line up the crank to 0 tdc, then look at the cam dots. Are they diagonal outward? or in towards engine? If there IN, then rotate one full crank rotation. Now the dots should be "out" diagonally. This is the #1 compression stroke. NOW check the disty rotor and set it accordingly to point at #1.

Did you hook that lead up to the Positive side? For sure? I mean, if it worked before you replaced cables, and now doesn't........then that means you missed something. Positive cable from battery to starter post? Small positive lead from battery to fuse box? Negative cable from battery to bolt at back of engine? Simple test....using multimeter or test light. Put + probe on the + battery post, and then put the -(neg) probe to anywhere on the metal of the engine block. If you don't get a 12v reading.......then the ground cable is not hooked up correctly.

This probably won't be a popular opinion, but here it is from a shop owners perspective....... Broken stuff happens. Especially in the northeast. That's not the shops fault. I would not have put the car back together with just one bolt. I would have made you leave the car. I would have sourced the correct parts, finished the job, and billed you accordingly. If I touch it with a wrench, you owe me money. And the car doesn't leave my shop until the job is done fully and I receive payment. You don't pay, I put a lien on your car. That's why everyone signs a service agreement. If you had left and caused an accident with you're broken brakes, the mechanic would be liable. He's foolish for letting you take the car like that. You are foolish for driving it like that. You should have let the shop finish the job. As it is, sounds like you're car made a pain in their as for several hours and then didn't give them any money for there work or let them finish the job.

I wouldn't try to drive with the shaft dropped. But you could likely do it if you had too. Make sure to put the FWD fuse in to prevent the rear shaft from getting power and potentially flopping around. I would bungee it to keep it from rubbing the spinning diff flange. But it can't slide out as the carrier bearing holds the front section into the trans.

I will say that on subes in particular, i encounter many previously over tightened bolts. Usually it's the Timing belt covers, or water pump bolts. Those little M6 going into aluminum or captive plastic get blown out by even a 1/4" drive air or electric ratchets. Those little M6 bolts don't ever need ore than about 7 ft/lbs tops. No fun. got to helicoil to fix the stripped threads. But I've seen a few where the "ear" of the block that the timing covers bolt too snapped off. also seen timing belt tensioner bolts, and idler bolts too tight to the point of stripping. Power steering pump bracket bolts too. Many folks are not used to working with small fasteners going into aluminium.

you must remove dash. It's not that hard. Drop the 2 bolts that hold the column. Pull the speedo cable out of the back of the dash. Disconnect the blend door cable, and the sets of large harness connectors at each end. Leave the gauge cluster in the dash. Remove the radio by removing the center console/ash tray assembly. Worst part is the 3 bolts at the top of the dash. Don't whack yer windshield with the wrench. (way easier during a windsheild replacement) Then the 2 bolts in the center under radio console and 2 at the outer lower corners. It's really not terrible. And you don't need to remove the cluster from the larger dash assembly at all. get a friend to help. EA82 core won't fit directly. But the EA81 unit is all brass possible to fix?

https://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-G55726-select-Subaru-models/dp/B000E8X4V0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522353414&sr=8-1&keywords=subaru+brat+strut I'm running a new set of these on the my Wheeler Hurry, 1 left.

Bad syncrho's keep you from getting into (or out of) gear Poping out of gear in subies is ussually the upper shaft, rear bearing. This is because the ONLY thing that holds the upper shaft from sliding fore/aft in the case is it's rear bearing, and relies on it's outer race being held firm in the case, and a circlip and plate that help hold it's position. When this bearing wears out, and gets slop in it, the shaft is allowed to walk forward and back as you go on/off throttle changes. The gearset moves in the fork. The problem isn't the shift fork detents. In contrary, the better the detent holds, the more likely it will pop out of gear. Ussually it's starts in 5th, since 5/R fork is the one immediately behind this bearing, But the 3/4 shift fork is on the upper shaft too. maybe the 5th detent is worn enough to allow the fork to move with the gearset when it walks around? 1/2 fork is on the lower. So, if it starts popping out of first or second you've got bigger problems. that would mean the large, rear pinion shaft bearing was shot and you're Ring+ Pinion in the front diff is toasted. ****NOTE ***** Damage to the upper shaft, rear bearing can result from improper clutch installation......i.e. forcing the issue when installing clutch while not aligned properly.

m8x1.25 bolts 17-20 ft/lbs or 204-240 in/lbs

So, when you replaced the battery cables, did you make sure to connect the smaller lead on the positive side that goes to the underhood fuse box?

you mean EA82 cars? or 3rd gen legacies? either way it's a yes. same part even.