Gloyale

No they aren't. the paint sticks them toghether. they wack off with a hammer. You don't need the LCA's with EA lift. that's if lifting form Leg/Imp to FOR/OBK stuff.

You just need an Intake, Harness and ECU wired properly for a swap. Does the engine have an intake? and do you know PRECISELY what year model it came from? If it has the intake you just need a matching Impreza 2.2 intake and harness... If it doesn't have an intake....you can use any OBD I or OBD II 2.2 intake and ECU up to MY 98.

3.0 H6 is a great engine. Serpentine belt pulleys/tensioner is the one known issue......and it's a simple and inexpensive fix when it happens. Ours has 235k with virtually nothing but oil changes on the original engine.

Best to use a Cam holder tool to hold the pulley while crackin the nut. Relying on the belt to hold it can be iffy......espescially for the reassmebly torque down. "the Right Stuff" sealant is far superior to ultra grey.

EA axles are not like EJ axles. EJ axles slide right in.......engaging a splined hub. EA axles are SUPPOSED to be a "press fit" or Zero Clearance........ Subaru makes a special tool for a slide hammer to pull them through. If you can just slip an EA axle right in then it or the wheel bearing or both are JUNK. Best way is to remove the Caliper/rotor/hub AND the outer seal. insert axle so the threads poke through, thread the nut on, and use 2 prybars or the claws of 2 hammers to pry the axle through. You will have to stack up the washers, and eventually it will be far enough through to get the hub back on then use the nut to pull it the rest of the way through. Don't forget to put the seal back in.

M14 Stick a sparkplug in it lol

Well.....that's not the best way to install the seal.....it probably isn't seated all the way but htat won't cause a clunk. I am guessing that you've got a balljoint, tierod, or swaybar bushing knocking over bumps.

Not worth it. EJ22 would be better and easier. Either will require frame rail notching.

Better cooling capacity, Non-interference (pre-97) Also simpler head design.....smaller, lighter, fits in an EA81 engine bay. You could easily use the Harness and ECU from the 97 DOHC to run a 95/96 EJ22 just need the EJ22 w/intake.

This. Wire colors change through the connector. Try swapping the Green and White.

85,86,87,87A, and 30 are standard terminal designation for bosch style 4 or 5 pin relays. 85 and 86 are the low amp "trigger" terminals.....basically a + and - to activate the relay. In this case would ground 85 and run the original starter wire to 86. 30 is the "in" for the High amp side......so in this case the battery power. And finally 87 is the "out to load" of the high amp side. So in this case output to starter. 87A would be the "normally closed" position....not used in this case...

Yeah...now you just deal with road noise, dust, and water/mud comin up through the hole in the floor. Canister and cables work just fine and are pretty damn simple..... I guess some people just fix everything with a big stick.

The "hub" is the part that hte wheel bolts to with the 5 studs. It cannot be removed without a press or slidehammer. The backing plate will not come off over the hub. So basically one could use an ABS knuckle/hub assembly on a Non ABS car..........but not the other way round......to keep ABS.....you need ABS parts. The only way to do it would be to swap the hub and backing plate.....which requires basically a wheel bearing job.....so why not just put new bearing into the existing ABS knuckle?

Should be from teh one on the passenger side of the intake runner. Full intake Vacuum. Shifting from 1st to 3rd immediately suggests that the governor second stage may be stuck open

EJ swap.

93 is definately NON-interference. check belt.

Sounds like an unmetered air leak. Check all the PCV and IAC hoses.....vacuum hoses. May be something that is leaking after the hoses warm up.

What we REALLY need is the plastic "nuts" that fit into the square holes and then accept the screws. Anybody got a 3d printer?

If the timing belt covers are off you can determine TDC #1 compression by looking at the marking dots on each Cam pulley. When you are at TDC compression the dots will be at 45 degrees out and away form eachother............ If you are 180 out.(TDC #1 end of exhaust stroke) the dots will be again at 45 degrees....but pointed in towards the center of motor and eachother.

Sounds like you need to take the top off the carb......remvoe the emulsion tubes and clean them out. Reseal kit for the carb is ~25 bucks........ A properly cleaned and resealed Hitachi will make plenty of power.........all the reports of "more power" from a weber are really just New carb vs. Old clogged one....I personally LOVE the hitachi DCP/DCZ carbs.......they are great used on many Japanese rigs for years..

Nah......It will know when the O2 sensor doesn't see a change in fuel mixture like it should. I Have tried simply connecting the solenoid, and it doesn't work.....code comes after about 15 mins of driving One needs to use a EGR equipped manifold.......and like mentioned run the EGR tube over to the intake boot so it can pass "flow" over to the valve when it opens........altering the mix enough to fool ECU.

This is accurate for EA82 wagon/sedan/coupe w/ power steering. Manual steering is differenent. Also XT's are different. both need longer couplers. We are talking about cutting the STEERING COUPLER.........and extending it........... NOthing about cutting axle in half.

Have you tried to bolt one on yet? I am sure they fit........seen lots of members using those rims.

Input shaft Large bearing is going out. Open the trans case and replace the bearings on the upper shaft, and the front seal while your at it. Search for my "easy front seal replacement" write up.

Here is the scan from the 90 FSM.......>And a good chance to explain a typo I found only recently.. So, As you can see.......Coming out of the ECU(pins 1-2) and through the SMJ (B27/F45 connector..pins N6 and M6) the 2 wires in question are White, and Black respectively. IGNORE the markings at connector F26/E2 (engine connector) pins 7 and 5.........they are not LightGreen/Red and Black/Blue as indicated at that connector......this is a typo......again the Harness side of the connector.....pins 7 and 5 are White and Black respectively.......... BUt on the enigne side of the connector........the wires swap colors.....shown in diagrahm........and actually correct not typo.