Gloyale

Rear springs espescially can break from rust......Your in Vermont soooo.....

Registered. Awesome

Dimmer switch getting a bad spot.

Not really.....He's askin about a Loyale (old gen EA82) But in response to his question yes everything can be swapped pretty easily. Except if the Auto car is a 2wd........it will not have the cptive nuts in the body threaded for rear driveline, and mustache bar.

I do not think the TC bolts can be accessed from below.....cover or not......it's too close to the crossmember.

2006+ engines also have the weird triangular basin oil pan...... Wonder if the shape of the pan could make a steady rate of oil loss appear to accelerate as the level drops. At the top of the pan.....a loss of say half a quart, would be only a slight drop.....but as the level drops more......the pan is smaller towards the bottom.......so that same 1/2 quart loss, shows as a bigger "drop" on the stick. Just a guess.... I'm thinkin you might want to have the screens behind those solenoids cleaned/replaced.....

I'm gonna agree that the connection between the EGR and the PCV is likely the issue...... But there is one other thing.......Did you reseal the oil pan???? And if so did you install a new o-ring at the back of the pan were the seprator drain tube is?? If you didn't replace that o-ring....you definately could be sucking up oily vapor and splash from the bottom of the pan. you likely would be seeing oily residue out the exhaust though.

If you used the Ebay plunger you may find that's the issue... The ones I recieved the rod was too short......relied entirely on the sping to kick the gear out......the rod should be almost the full length of the spring. Ended up it would engage the motor, but just spins....not engaged to the flywheel. Also.....1-3-2-4.........Sorry if I came off harsh.........I have good days and bad ones. Trying to help......gets me frustrated sometimes.

Sounds like a 90-91 harness......and yes.....wire color for the 2 TPS wires from pins 1 and 2 flip flops at the engine connector.....not sure why.......black becomes white, white becomes black......normal. I'd put it back how it was when you found it......Probably correct unless something was shorted or obviously hacked/spiced. TPS idle switch should read voltage when throttle open.......should drop low (grounded) when switch closes at idle. Since you've got constant voltage I would say the Idle switch isn't closing.

These rims have the best offset for subaru's in terms of NOT sticking out of the fenders. toyota15" mid 90's 4 runner and pickup. These ones, from an early Isuzu Trooper......stick out a little further but are still reasonable......some like the slightly more "stanced" look. In general, I think the rims from midsized Japanese rigs workout better for us. Some are available in 14", 15" and 16" and even 17" rims. Nissan, Mazda(older), Mitsubishi, Isuzu, and of course...Toyota.......(just picked up some FJ Cruiser 17") The Chevy rims tend to be WAAAAY stickout....and pretty wide (8" or more) since they are for Full size trucks.

Install the blocks so they push the strut tops inward....not outward.

A/C relay and Temp switch both supply ground to the fan....not power.......12v+ goes directly to fan from fusebox.

I doubt the codes are related to your oil changes. Check engine light does not monitor oil level.

Or just jumper the fan switch connector (paperclip across terminals) that should runt he fan if the circuit works.

Mr-Loyale beat me to the comment......but yeah......I thought last night about this thread and realized he may have the override activated...... Some models it very obscured by the panels.....you really gotta look for the little lever.

I highly doubt the dealer sells the "whole thing with a key" for 30 bucks........Last one I purchased (for a 2003) was $278.... ...and Yeah, ever tried to install the whole lock cylinder? you have to remove the column, drill out the safety bolts, and then install the new one. More likely for $30 you will get an Ebay china switch that hte dealer will order for you.......not a Genuine subaru part......and it will be just the switch......which is better anyhow, you don't need a new key.....just the electrical part of it which comes right off the back of the lockcylinder with a couple screws. It's only ugly if you do a sloppy job.....mounted correctly there is nothing "unsighlty" about. I have installed many for customers.....because short of a spendy new switch.....it's the most reliable option. Push to start is the new rage in all newer cars......audio places are retrofitting now......What the heck is wrong with a button???? Your right. It's more important to have it "look good" in your 20 year old high mileage car than to actually start the car.....everytime, and drive it. Best advice has been given in this thread. Do what you like.

You did something wrong. Miss one of the rings on that Tripod? Should....Get rid of the stupid aftermarket crap tripod axle anyhow. Do it right with a good axle and it should not break.

86 carbed car Has no "diagnostic scan" capability.....never did.......Carbed with no ECU..... This is a simple alternator issue. All warning lights come on with the "charge" light (just like Key on/Eng off) Check your Alternator belt hasn't come off.....If you don't have Power steering you wouldn't notice otherwise without looking. If the belt is there....then the ALT is going out or maybe just became unplugged?

Uhhh.......4 spds are just 3.9.........There never were any 3.999 Heard claims of a 3.8999......But never seen any supporting facts for that claim. All D/Rs in the U.S. are 3.9 (RX 3.7)

Yeah think of the shifting as 3 tracks, 1-2, 3-4, and 5-R each with a gear at each end, and N in the middle You can only move between "tracks" side to side when the shifter is in N....once you pick a track by moving into a gear.....you must come back to N before you can skip tracks again. This is partly just the design......and partly intentional that on;y one gear can be selected at a time....(if 2 gears try to engage things start binding/breaking)

My guess is someone has jumpered a wire to the Choke.....look at the engine wiring see if anything has been chopped/spliced/added.

Those 4 relays are From left to right Defrost Blower motor (heater) Headlamp R Headlamp L None of them should be messed with for EJ swap. Second pic.....Fuel pump control relay..... Attach your EJ tach wire to the Yellow wire at that connector Attach your IG. Switch power "on" the EJ harness to the Black/white wire at that connector. Attach your EJ fuel pump power out (from EJ Harness) to Blue/red wire at that connector.

There are also S/R 5spds from Non-turbo XTs that have 23 spline, but 3.7 ratio. So the stubs don't concretely tell.....but in most cases yes. This trans from an RX should be 25 spline and 3.7

Your kidding right? If that's too much.......you really aren't gonna want to do the real fix.....which is a new Ig. switch. $$$ Don't buy an Ebay one they are crap don't even fit or work at all. I bought a "lot" of 6 and they are all junk.

Black/white wire should get power from fuse 11 (Ig. on and start) Blue/Black gets 12v+ from fuse 14 (Acc. on and Ig. on.......not in start) Blue/Red supplies 12v+ to fuel pump Blue supplies 12v+ to Choke, Vent solenoid, and Cutoff (anti-diesel) solenoid Black is Ground Yellow is tach pulse. I'd start by checking fuse 11 for power with key in Ig. on