Gloyale

According to my EA FSMs....... 10w-30, or 10w-40 are speced for temps from 0 F to 95 F (says both......doesn't give a distinct temp where to switch) 5w-30 is listed for temps BELOW 0 F which is -18 C........Well below freezing..... I personally use 10w40 for everything except the coldest time of year.......then I might run 10w-30 if we are having a cold snap. Unless you are well below zero ALL winter......I would not use 5w-30. It also says if used in desert areas or heavy duty application, the following can be used.....30, 40, 10w-50, 20w-40, 20w-50

It will only tilt side to side when it's in "neutral" so you need to push/pull until you feel it stop in the middle click. then it should pivot. It won't feel like much only about 30 degrees of swing. I did a writeup on front seal replacement in an EJ AWD trans. the D/R is almost identical......the one difference is you will need to unbolt the reverse lockout (2, 10mm bolts, and 1, 14mm bolt with spring and ball under it) to access the shiftrod lock bolt in the rear section.......After that the entire rear section will slide right off (after remove the rear case bolts too)

I would buy a new one......JY switch is a crapshoot. they aren't very expensive.

Does your vanagon have a VSS hooked up? I know many vanagon owners do not use a speed sensor with the EJ swap. That is the one signal that is shared by Cruise and Engine computers so you will need it. The other wire you need from the ECU is Tach signal (Black/blue wire) Everything else for the Cruise computer is seperate You need: VSS signal Tach signal Brake light signal 2nd brake switch (normally closed......opens when you hit brakes.....loops through clutch or "N" switch) Clutch switch (loops with brake circuit) Main "on" switch "set" and "resume" switches. 12v+ Ground

I would suggest adding a pushbutton for the Start circuit.

No it's 12V all the time....... And it should not GET power from the Fuel pump unit........The fuel pump unit is provided power by the coil wire circuit. Should be 12v+ on the Black/White wire to both the Fuel pump control and to the coil + side. The Fuel pump control unit DOES also power the electric choke, and the cutoff solenoid, and bowl vent solenoid.......so if you didn't give those power also that can cause running issues.

I understand......But you have to set the Timing belts to a certain point FIRST.... Then with Timing belts on.....and engine at TDC #1.........THEN you align dot on Distributor gear to mark on it's body.......And then install disty like that.

Check the hose that goes between the Vac. pump and the Cable diaphragm. If it's leaking that would explain the slow loss of speed.

Align crank to TDC on Compression stroke. This will put the drivers side (left on car) cam dot 45% downward and out.....about 4:30 on the clock dial. Then align small dot on distributor drive gear with small tab on distributor shaft. Drop straight in without rotating until gear contact.....then let it rotate slightly as it fully engage. Oh yeah....Give your fuel pump a Fresh new wire for ground to body.......original grounds through small transitor in ECU and gets weak......causes low fuel pressure......weird hard starts......poor acceleration. Provide new ground (-) to pump and ECU will still control +12v through relay. Only on MPFI ea82s set up with ground through ECU....dumb.

In 20 years of Mechanic work....you are the only person who I've ever heard say to do this. Bad advice......that hole is there to allow expansion from heat in the space between the bearing and the shaft seal.

Depends on which one (color) Green is .5mm (80 amp) Red is .85mm (130 amp) Black is 1.25mm (190 amp) Blue is 2.0mm (260 amp)

+1 Not an apt analogy.......unless you are gonna to try to "resurface" your rotors with a hand file. You don't. even if you change your own brakes you gotta get new rotors or have them turned at a machine shop.......which nearly proves my point. It's not that they have some title of "professional" it's that they have the PROPER EQUIPMENT. That said i would never take a car to Midas but I always do have my rotors surfaced wet on a flywheels surfacer......even better than lathe cut which basically scratches a new finish......I digress. Really you aren't "lapping" the head.....and you are definately not "squaring" it ............you are sanding it like a woodshop project in 7th grade. And it does NOT get the warp out of the head.....if the head is warped....this ain't gonna fix it. At best this method can be very lightly used to remove traces of old gasket...... Actually trueing the head to a perfect, square to the bores, surfaced plane, can only be done with the head chocked into a surfacing machine.

Fusible link box suppies EVERYTHING with power. (except main starter lead). Everything in the car runs first thought the Fusible link box, and then into the cabin to the low amp Fuse box.

You don't need a new box. I am not aware of anyplace to get a new one anyhow.... Just clean the connection. Same with the links.....I've never seen "new" pre-made fusible link like that. Fusible link wire can be purchased from autoparts or electrical store........crimp some new spades onto a length of appropriate gauge.....done.

Check the lead from the battery + to the Fusible link block. the main spade gets corroded....give it a clean up and a wiggle and it should work.

I know that early OBD II models will never be ready. there was a known issue where the monitors would reset after every key off. I know becasue my 96 ALWAYs say not all systems ready......but still reads out codes and realtime data........just a software glich I think CA emmisions testing knows about and exempts the 96 model at least from the "readiness" factor...all other parameters must be met though.

How did you keep all the buckets in their bores? Even if the buckets stayed in......didn't some shims fall off??? You didn't send out the heads for surfacing? Valve clearance would have been easy to check while heads are out. One more thing to remember is the 2001 legacy had an updated ECU system, and a SOHC 2.5......Not the DOHC......and 2001 Legacy is much less boxy, more areodynamic than Forrester.

Yeah....the brochure is Fuji Optimism...... They don't get that kinda mileage unless you are "hyper-miling".......driving less than 65mph on freeway and accelerating very slow and steady in city......never more than %30 throttle opening. Who drives like that? Here's the EPA page http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/14773.shtml

Ultra Grey is OK. But the best sealant made by Permatex is "the Right Stuff" "The RIght Stuff" is superior.....and only slighy more expensive. I swear by it now.....never will use anything else. Cures faster....bonds tighter......stays flexible and rubbery......but cleans off easily by simply rubbing.... Amazing tensile strength.....But no resistance to lateral force(friction) so just rub off.

Okay....Update Bratman shopped me the OBD II harness. I used it to run an engine at my shop.......all worked well, until I tried using the MAF he sent back too........Engine hiccuped, popped and basically acted just like the engine in his video. Hooked up that MAF to another running harness.....and it then worked??? Well I checked the condition of the contacts at the MAF and on the Harness plug... One of the MAF pins had a thick black buildup of carbon.....and it's corresponding "female" mate in the harness was a bit loose too......Cleaned them off, pinched the connector a bit....VOILA! It's all working great...... Bratman, I'll post a video. The ones I shot yesterday will not import with sound??? WTF?? Stupid iPhone4 (that's been , run over, crushed and then sank to the bottom of a river) I'll shoot another one today with the Ipod Nano....it takes good video...

Factory cruise control is operated by a seperate computer. to transplant you would need from donor -Cruise computer and connector w/ wires -Vacuum pump from underhood...passenger side low on the framerail -Clutch switch if manual -4 pole brake switch (DPST) -"cruise" on button -Vacuum actuated throttle cable

Yeah, or like a porsche, or SuberDave's Coupe.........I get the layout.....but again...... In a Kei sized car (think smaller than a Geo Metro or Subaru Justy) there would not be room for an engine and transmission laid out in that configuration. there's barely a back seat.....let alone enoguh room for an engine and trans. It would need to be a bit larger.......like an NSX with a boxer.

It does if the Disty is installed for #1 towards the brake booster, ........and your using #1 towards the starter. So basically you'd be seeing the #3 or #4 timing rather than the #1........ I see what you are saying though if you put the light lead on #1 it will tell you where #1 is sparking......I guess I think maybe he's using the wrong lead? Also Have seen a few boogered Disty drive gears cause weird timing problems on both EA81 and EA82.......perhaps inspect the timing gear on the cam???

Just splice in a new wire of appropriate gauge.

Yeah......I should have known...... Now that you say it was the main engine connector.......I remember seeing that before. Main plug disconnected = fans run and ECU/Dash does weird things.