Gloyale

Buckets mixed up for vavles? that would make some valves tight and others loose.......either way not good for milegage. Also.....Different people drive different.....and people's perception of the mileage they are getting is often not the actual "by the numbers" mileage figure. I'd check compression, and run Lucas Fuel injector treatment.....that will help some....but honestly I think the EPA only rated that car at 18 city and 24 hwy (avg. 20) NEW.

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If the Ig. switch wasn't giving power thorugh it wouldn't click the relay.......power for the realy coil also comes from start signal, grounds through pedal. If the switch failed the coil would not see + so wouldn't click. this would be simple to solve with a testlight....or just like I said jumper Blue/red to the Red/yellow and turn the key......if it still doesn't work the relay isn't the issue.

Scott here's how the 3 plug EJ alt should be in the EA car. White wire = tied to the main charge wire (good idea to make new charge wire back to battery through fusible link) Black/white= "charge" Lamp (L) goes to EA white/red wire....looks like you;ve got that right Yellow= Switched power.....and this will be were the regulator sees reference voltage......Can go to EA Black/white (Ig. +) or to the Yellow wire of EJ harness like it was in the Legacy........It just needs switched power.

hmm......possible the starter solenoid is dying......although you should be hearing it click at least if the interlock and key are working.

It's a big brownish/yellow relay with a blue plug. Remove the 2 screws that hold the under column panel, then remove that........it's right behind that on the left of the column.

It really doesn't matter which joint type......they speced the smaller 82AC joint on 4wds I guess figuring in rough conditions people will use 4wd so all axles spread load. FWDs got he 87ac since front axles do all the work....all the time.....weird huh? You could even run Turbo 3at axles which use the 92ac joint but still have 23spline stubs........basically as long as it's an EA82, 23spline axle it will work fine.

Is the GL-10 a turbo? And is it manual or automatic? Whichever one has the nicest body keep and part out the other.... Look ove the GL-10 and take any goodies........LSD rear? Disc brakes? plush seats and doorcards?

Do you know that the actual 4 small brass tubes were actually removed and blown out........not just soaked? Not trying to harp on this but unless they were cleared positively....they are suspect....... If nothing else pull the bowl drain plugs and see if the bowl is actually full of fuel......Perhaps the float is stuck closed?

You say "had the carb rebuilt".......By who? and did they ACTUALLY remove the emulsion tubes and clear them? Too often "rebuilding" the carb is simply considered takin it apart, and reinstalling new seals........ Somethin isn't right if it's not getting fueled.

Doubtful. low pressure pump if it's workin at all it's fine. I am goin bet you got a clogged up carb. Pull the top of carb (can do on motor) and unscrew the 4 brass emulsion tubes visible after removing top and blow them out. Rebuild kit is cheap so you can reseal for resassembly.

Newer subarus it is easiest to mark and removed the 2 bolts that hold the knuckle to strut. I digress On EA's the BJ is often very hard to get propely back into the hole in the knuckle once the axle is back in. They can get cocked and stuck going back in.....epsecially in "over stock" lifted rigs, or in rusty areas........worse if both.... And plus for me it's just the cast knuckle issue. Cast knuckle should be spread/clamped as few times as possible. That is why I do them the way I do now. Seen 2 broken ones from repeated prying/clamping. 2 radius rod bolts can be easily zipped off with a 17mm socket on an impact or wratchet, and a 19mm wrench.......takes less than a minute.......You don't need to remove the bolts either.....just need to take the nuts off and drop the arm down. How can that be harder than the pinch bolt fight? Hammering in a screwdriver to wedge it open, bangin, spraying PB blaster, banging again to fight the arm out the bottom (which it doesn't want to do without removing swaybar links and radius rods anyhow) No thanks. But to each there own method to skin this cat.

Just jumper the Red/Yellow and Blue/red wires at the interlock relay to bypass.

Those are often stubborn in rustbelt areas......and the balljoint can be damaged. And after TOO many prys and pinches, the casting can crack......ask me how I know

Items in red are not included in that kit.........and some are not even applicable to that engine....(sparkplug tube gaskets, air pump gasket, choke tube gasket, etc....)

1 and 2. Requireing, two, 14mm and 12mm wrenches respectively. also helps to remove the 2 radius rod bolts to let the arm drop down and ease reinstall. 17mm nuts, 19mm heads.

Either clutching wrong or the Flywheel is incorrectly stepped. Have it refaced, to a 0.815" step.

For 4wds Early EA81 cluch = 200mm 7/8ths inch shaft (21 spline) Late EA81 clutch (83+) = 225 mm 7/8ths inch (21 spline) All EA82 4wd = 225 mm 1"inch shaft (24 spline) ***Note*** FWD, non-turbo EA82 clutch is same as Late type EA81.

Correct ECU doesn't see anything from clutch switch on EJ's

Clutch switches....... one for Starter lockout... one for Cruise cancel... ECU doesn't care doesn't see clutch switch.......does see "nuetral" switch though.

If the car has keyless entry/alarm.........you may need to depress the reset button while turning key to "ON" button is ussually mounted very hidden almost behind the and above the hood latch pull....mounted to the dash sheetmetal at it's lowest edge against the kickpanel.

RS is a rare model.........and then it isn't.........Nothin that didn't come on thousands of other cars......kinda like a "DL" model of the RX. And it's not a submodel type that is particularly interesting or representing 80's weirdness as a collectible like a Brat or XT...... I'd say do what you want with it.......it would be a cool rump roast wheeler........or just a daily driver with a EJ22 and small lift. You're not "ruining" anything that's really collectible. Even though many more were made.....the RX seems like a better candidate for "collectible" since the Turbo heritage kinda began there and has been the basis of Subaru's rally success. It's the perfect car for someone that really wants to ENJOY driving a classic subaru......but one that's a bit different than the basic wagons everyones got.

Best thing is to steal a clutch mounted switch from a GL or Legacy with Cruise control, and wire that to go to ground when the clutch is depressed. NOTE* the "Nuetral" signal wire to the ECU is not the same as the "safety lockout" circuit that is also built into the shifter. So the 2 big wires at the shifter, you can loop them toghether to complete the start circuit.... The Nuetral wire you will want to loop through a clutch switch to ground........ You can wire in a lo range light.....there is a mount for a microswitch on the D/R shifter.......And your cluster will have a spot for lo range light, although...it may be just a blank color....not saying LO but the spot is there in the dash.......while you've got it pulled you can pull the bulb for the "N" light....or it will come on everytime you clutch!

The 3 bolt holes are an even triangle.....looks like you;ve got them slightly off.

Camshaft is the link between 1-3 cylinders.