Gloyale

What exccactly do you mean by "rebuilt" Did they just reseal the heads? Or was it actually rebuilt with new rings, bearings, valve guides, etc.......? And is the air intake boot COMPLETELY installed......it won't run proper without the air boot pulling through the MAF. Random black wire come from wiring near coil? if so then yes it get's grounded to the engine.

You really should learn more about carburetor theory..........willy nilly removing things from your car when you don't know what they are could have unforseen results. But with that said here is a few more tips. That is not an air supply to the cat. It mearly feeds "warmed" air from the jacket around the CAT, to the intake during warm up. You can remove it......and don't do anything to the CAT....the metal "tube" coming off the CAT is just part of it's heat sheild will not leak exhaust. For the ASV (pipes coming off heads) unscrew the tube from the ASV block.......slip a Quarter ($.25 US coin) into the hole and screw the pipe back in.....now the ASV is effectively blocked off.

Save your money and sell your current Lincoln for a better one....or Miller, Hobart.......anyhting but harbor freight. Harbor freight welder will break within a year of even moderate use........Cheap hoses will get punctured......wire feed jams....stops working.....and they are not repairable.......too much cheap china parts not interchangable with "industry standard" .......You will regret it.

Ball socket is the same, but in a different mount posiiton. You need to use the fork that matches the clutch type, and position the ballpivot on the correct spot. (cable pivot mounts further out from center)

It doesn't HAVE to be hooked up that way.....just the yellow wire at the alt needs to see Switched voltage as a "signal" reference for the regulator to monitor voltage. Attaching that to the Ig. relay circuit ensures that the alt keeps the ECU voltage steady....... But later models don't have this connection.......and in fact I've seen poorly remaned alts cause havoc to the ECU because of this connection.. You could simply give that yellow wire at the Alt switched voltage from anywhere and it should be fine. And the Yellow wire at the diode that supplies the Ig. relay and ECU, it should be switched or your ECU and Ig relay are always on. Fat white wires can be tied to the EA charge wire (fat white) but it's better actually to run them all the way back to just before the fusible link box before splice...................or even better still all the way to the battery through a 3 inch long section of 12 gauge fusible link wire. The original EA wire is old, and was made to take 55 amps.....not the 70+ the EJ alt can produce.

No click? Ignition switch failing. Install a pushbutton.....or at least keep a length of wire that you can jump from starter solenoid terminal (small spade) to the battery to kick the starter.

Passenger side is bank 1 (the side with #1 cylinder....furthest forward on the crank)

A Kei sized car with a bower in the MIDDLE???? where the hell would a driver sit?

Use a dial caliper and measure the rod journal. If you can't use a dial caliper you shouldn't be dealing with engine internals.

83+ has the 225mm flwheel and disc. FWIW, an EA82 2wd 5spd kit will also fit the late EA81 setups. This is incorrect.....EA81 engine cars even w/ dual range 4spds up to 82 have the smaller flywheel and disc still. the change happened in 83.

Choke should just be a 12v heater cicuit. Comes from the FPCU (fuel relay) whenever Tach signal is present....just like fuel pump... Not managed by ECU at all. Only thing the ECU controlled is Air bleeds to vary the mixture. Rip it out and throw it away at this point.

If you cut a hole in the crossmember it can be bolted in and works.......but it's too wide. Set the alignment with the wheels straight but then when you turn the wheels toe out from eachother at lock. Steering rack end to end needs to be the same distance as between A-arm pivots (+ horizontal distance from balljoint to tierod) to keep everything making paralellograms

You should not need to add EGR to make the car pass. To do so you'd need the whole intake manifold, and the drivers side head...........Or you would need to drill and tap your head, and the intake manifold (maybe....don't know if the passages are actually there or just "blank") EGR is for controlling NOx anyhow.......CO I would change plugs, run a few tanks of premium, change fuel and air filter, and an oil change. Unless they say you MUST install an EGR....I would focus on other areas of making the car run right.

Does your swap have the Start Signal wire hooked to the starter circuit? That would be the first thing I would suspect. Also...test the fuel pressure...make sure it's not too high. Also...The pump should not run continuosly with the key on......should on;y run for a few seconds to prime....and then not again until the ECU sees a signal from the Crank&Cam sensors (engine turning/running) How is your Fuel pump relay wired???

Idle control solenoid make sure the Yellow/red wire at the center pin of IAC has 12v from Ignition relay Knock sensor probably just a bad Knock sensor if the wire is intact end to end.

There is no "ground" at the ALT. there is 12v to battery....Big white wire, 12v from Ig. switch (BW on EA, Y on EJ) and "charge Lamp" wire (WR on EA, BW on EJ) Ig relay should be the ONLY ground you need to deal with.....all others ground through the harness at the intake.....if you connected all wires back toghether properly, you should not need to add any other grounds. The "thin yellow" wires are the IG switch ciruit......so you haven't bypassed the ECU, just allowed it and the IG relay and FP relay to get power....that sounds correct. You may need to make sure that the IG switched power is getting to the Ignitor, the IAC, and the coil.....those IIRC are also on the same cirucit. Do you have the intake boot and the MAF hooked up??? they need to be for the engine to run for more than a moment. keep forgetting to bring the legacy FSM home for scans.....I really will try today.

That look overextended to me. Aftermarket tripod joint for sure....but I don't see anything "broken" Does that car have an "over stock" lift??

NSX with a Boxer............perfection

Is the start signal wire hooked up? Ecu will on;y power the fuel pump if it sees proper voltage to that and CAM/Crank sensor signals.

+1 No need for any tabs on adapter plate. EJ bracket bolts to EA 5spd. I suppose with a 4spd maybe woudl be needed.

Your ECU is just doing a good job of compensating and keeping the engines running.....some ECUs have a harder time than others. But there is a Nuetral switch in the system, and it has an effect on the Closed loop operation. Your ECU just basically is seeing you're engine as in gear all the time. Your particular driving style could be preventing symtoms......But those who put the clutch in around turns and coast in nuetral to a stop HAVE reported problems with stalling and/ random high idles.. The VSS is how the ECU knows the car is moveing. Duh.. I have done 9 swaps in person and stripped wiring for dozens more board members....OBD I, OBDII, EJ22, EJ18, EJ257 and EJ20G........and a few SPFI to EA81 swaps. I am trying hard to give helpful, accurate, thorough information. Do you have your CEL hooked up.?.....If not how do you know if it's not causeing a CEL and an Open loop condition? (loss of mileage and possibly power) Anyhow.....Ystirday......nuetral switch is in the transmission of FI cars.......if you don't have one on your trans a common "hack" is to wire it through a Clutch switch that is ussually used for Cruise.....can be scavanged from any MT legacyor other w/ cruise. Mounts to clutch pedal bracket Wire so clutch "in" is like "neutral" Green/White is OIL light wire (not fuel, Scooner) and the White/Green is temp....as mentioned.

Glad that worked for you. Madness to me. my .02

Put it in Reverse will help access it. Then use a long punch. It's actually 2 pins.....drive out the small one first, then the big one so 2 punches

The "Manu" button lights up yellow. "power" light is green.......Are you seeing the power light on while driving??? Kinda sounds like your in "power" mode which is activated by a fast stabbing of the gas. Does your speedometer work?

Pull trans. Remove torque converter install new o-ring on turbine shaft reinstall TC and install in car. Man, oh man, I wish I could bill 15 hours for that. more like 3 or 4. And the O-ring is only $3.