Gloyale

actually its under the tray in front of the handle mounting.

Just because you haven't noticed an issue doesn't mean that the wiring is properly sheileded. You can use garden hose for gas line and NOT NOTICE A PROBLEM..............until it's a problem. I digress. As for neutral switch....If you're ECU is from an Auto car the Nuetral switch doesn't have as drastic of an effect......since automatics stop "in gear" all the time so the ECU trys to keep the idle up. With a Manual ECU...the ECU will cut all fuel when it sees "in gear", throttle at zero, and rolling 1+ mph......If you slip it in neutral without it knowing....it will cut all fuel and you get stalling......It's been experienced by many here......search.

You'll be lucky to find 2 of the 3

I Think you mean transfer gear.....not the ring gear in the front diff correct??? I welded my transfer gear collar rigth to the gear to keep maximum engagement on the teeth in my T-cased rig.......no need to use the FWD option. But that is T-cased not really relavent here.

You need to actually connect the sheilding toghether in order for it to have effect. At the far end the sheilding itself is grounded......without that.....you are just wrapping it in foil to no actual effect.

it will die at stops if you don't have a neutral switch hooked up. Should be grounded in Neutral....open at all other positions. Fat Blue/red is the starter signal wire....this should be hooked to the starter signal so it gets power with key in start. You should not need to add any grounds except for the Ig. relay. All the other grounds happen at the intake manifolld through harness.

This. Get better tires......they are the single biggest factor in safety other than perhaps brakes........but sh#t tires will yeild braking ineffective so yeah......get better tires.

Just call me if you got a problem. I'll check it out.

That would be better than the 3at. 5 spd S/R in a brat would do just fine to go RWD Like I said.....the 3at won't do RWD for any time at all.......I mean really AT ALL. I barely limped home a few miles...and it didn't like it one bit. The clutchs will slip and smoke the first time you try to burnout....especially with a welded rear diff.

Timing marks used not arrows? When you resealed engine.....Did you have heads off? the rockers off? any chance you've got a tight valve? Just seems like something in the engine to me. I will send another harness if you need it just be nice to check everything else first.

Wring in a thinnned harness all those 12v wires from the IG relay stay intact........except one that goes to the ALT that ussually gets cut and has to be reconnected. All yellow wires direct from IG switch and yellow/red wires out of relay to harness IIRC.

Well.....it certainly could be made to work. And yes you can just run wires to the circuits that need 12v. But there are several, so you'll need to make a split to each item. Do you have the Ignitor? MAF connector? And Oxygen sensor connector....Those 3 are the only ones that do not go through the main 3 engine connectors. I will try to scan the wiring diagrahm and pinout chart from the FSM.

Punctuation??? Pics of the bent lift?

Not a diff. Also not a direct gear coupling either. It's a Multiplate Hydraulic clutch......just like the 4EAT......except it's either got no pressure (2wd) or full pressure (4wd).........A propely working rear output on a 3AT will deliver "locked" 4wd......although most have a bit of wear at this point. I have the 3AT 4wd trans in my 84 GL.......When I broke a front axle, 4wd did get me home using RWD.....but I could tell the Multiplate clutch was slipping some......driving like that all the time would wear it out. *****notes about 3at******* 84 and earlier 3ats use a slight reduction at the transfer gears for the front and output relative to the rear .(981).......so the Front diff is 3.54, and the rear diff is 3.7.......yeilding actually slight overdrive to the rear diff once the math is all done. 85 and after they went to a 1:1 coupling.....so front and rear diffs are the same ratio.......and they also went to 3.9 ratio in ~86?

The point isnide the bucket on this engine is not nearly so long. For Subies it's just barely a nub on the inside of the bucket. Gary, you need to determine if they are even truely shims on bucket........or various thickness of the Buckets themselves (like newer WRX). Shims are Cheap($3) Buckets are more expensive ($20) You could try what Zombieforce suggests......if you've got a valve with alot of clearance, swap the shim (or whole bucket) with the tight one and recheck clearance. No garauntee.......but you might get into spec this waay. I know when I do a whole 16v regrind on a head.....I ussually only need to buy a new shims because you can swap around alot to reuse ones you already have.

Roof Rack rails made from crosscountry skis.

Why would you have no reverse???

+1

Start over with an unhacked harness. It is SOOO much easier to strip out excess than it is to put the whole harness back toghether. Unless you have a BUNCH of extra wiring you will end up with off colors changing end to end at each splice. Seriously......go to the pick N' pull and start over. If you want to get rid of the SMJ, do it after striping down everything else and then cut and solder each of the 10 or so wires that are needed and connect them one at a time to eliminate the SMJ. You've got a nightmare ahead right now. You also will be losing the sheilded wiring for TPS. You will also have B#$(% of a time getting 12v from the IG relay to all the various items under hood.....since those don't come from the ECU....they come from the Ig. switched power........yellow wires. One tip...the small connector is not all grounds. You can make the EJ ECU control the EA FP wiring in some applications. Not in Carbed cars.....and not in MPFI cars unless you ALSO provide new 12v to the EA relay........it's easier to leave the EJ harnesss with the Ig. relay and FP relays wired as they are and just splice the one 12v output to pump.

WAAAY up in the upper left hand corner of the dash is the Main relay (brown 6 wires) and the Fuel relay(green connector 4 wire) possible that the problem is there. Either stuck relay or crimped ground. My guess is a pinched ground keeping relay closed and pegging instruments.

Inner seal can go in anytime. In this case you will need to put it on before pulling the stub through. Outer seal should sit flush. As for pulling axle stub through.....that would ussually be done with the axle removed from the stub.......hmmm.........maybe an axle nut with a hook for a slide hammer?

What are you talking about. Manual trans in 4wd with zero or just one front axles.............you get ALL the power to the rear. Gotta have the outer end going through the hub to keep the wheel on. Can't "just pull them" you need to replace them with stubs.

Your being cautious, and that's good....but driving in RWD is fine. I towed 1000 lb trailer from eastern Montana to Oregon when my front axle broke on a road trip. I would not just cut the shaft out.......just leave it in and leave the car in 4wd. Or take just the outer joint end from another axle and shove it through the hub, bolt it in. You just don't want a cut axle shaft whipping around as the tires rotate.

Let it idle for 30 secs to 1 min. before shut off to cool the turbo. Otherwise you'll cook the oil that stops in the turbo.......then upon next startup that crusty burned up oil chunks flush into oil pan. eventually clogging the pickup and restricting oil flow. standard advice for any turbo....espescially gasser turbos.

3 options 1) Loosen cam caps slightly , slip a "J" shaped tool with an edge on it under the cam against the edge of the bucket.(Snap-on, Mac, Cornwell all sell this tool for shim replacement) to force the edge of the bucket down on the vavle......this will allow the shim to slip out. Measure it and buy a thinner shim.I think they are sold in .02mm increments....0.02~.04mm 2) remove cam entirely, remove bucket, grind tip of valve that protrudes above spring just a bit.....can't take too much or the stem tip will be below the spring retainer.....but you might get .005"(in) which should be enough to get in spec. this option really is best when the heads are off and the valve can be removed and ground...rather than on the engine. 3) leave it.......if you can get even any feeler in at all there is some space