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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    A brat with little or no rust and has only 89k is worth WAAAY more than "a ffew hundred bucks"(which means $200 or $300)......without an engine. That's practically scrap price. You gotta realize that the value of these old things as daily trnasportation any more is zilch, nada, nothing.....they are old.....slow...tired and don't even get great gas mileage.......you can't really compare them to "regular" cars. They are now in the realm of collectible......and they are one of the MOST unusual and collectable vehichles of their time. That's like saying......"I wouldn't pay more than a couple hundred for that Model T" Obviously one with a great running engine is worth somewhat more than one that doesn't run (89k miles....probably something very simple.....and thats crazy low miles) But just not being able to start it doesn't make it complete junk. Far and away most of the value of these vehicles is in what they ARE.....not how they run. Their value is only increasing at this point really.
  2. Gloyale
    Hate to bum you out......but I think you will not be able to keep the D/R. The gearset from the EA lower shaft will not fit on the EJ lower shaft. And using mixing hte EA and EJ gearsets won't work .2nd-5th are different ratios. And there is actually a change in the cut of the teeth too. I built almost the excact trans you are describing.......it grumbled but worked.....for about 1000 miles.....then 2nd gear ate itself. If you foudn a way around that issue..........fitting the 4.11 with D/R would still require shaving the corner of the ring gear (3.9 rings come like that, 4.11's not) and shaving of the D/R Shift collar itself about .100" sorry......In theory you could do this build if you could find an RX box to use the upper gearshaft from...as this trans has matching 2nd-5th ratios w/EJ. You can easily swap the entire EJ gearset and AWD into a S/R (pushbutton) EA trans case......but nt sure why you'd want to?? Maybe 4.11 AWD behind an EA81???? Or you can put EA S/R guts either P/T or FT4wd w/difflock into EJ case for no adapter EJ swap.
  3. Gloyale
    I think you will find the just throwing a slave on, and using the Cable fork will require too long a throw....over extending the slave. You can use a hydro clutch in that trans though..........just get a hydro fork, and move the ball pivot to the further out hole in the bell. If you get a Hill holder cable bracket from an earlier legacy, you can even keep the hillholder.....(the older ones use the top case trans case half bolt rther than the slave mounting)
  4. Gloyale
    Let's clarify.........first off......It's the OUTPUT stub.....not the input. And removing the seal and driving a new one is NOT POSSIBLE without removing the retainer cup on 4wd and AWD 5spds, or on 4EATs, they are driven in from the insid eof the cup. You myst remove the cup. Mark location adn count revolutions as you remove....make sure to get a new O-ring for around the retainer as well as a new seal.
  5. Gloyale
    Sounds like the flywheel face was surfaced without re-stepping the mounting edge. Pull flywheel and re-cut the step to stock .830" or.......cut it to XT6 specs for a bit more clamp.....815" If the step is outside of those #s that's the issue. Oh yeah also could be bending/cracking clutch fork happens sometimes. Pull the boot around the fork and look down inside.
  6. Gloyale
    The spring should not move on the perches at all. the rotation should happen at the bearing in the strut top.
  7. Gloyale
    332050 and 051
  8. Gloyale
    You contradict yourself. If you have not made, and used BOTH types you have no comparison. Geometry is the reason.....any car riding at near full extension will have compromised handling.....period. I use 17 degrees because it is the actual angle of the strut maount face relative to horiontal. You can cut them steeper..but you are pulling the tops in.....altering the mounting plane and letting the rubber take up the differnence. Using 19 degrees is also not feasible if lifting more tan 4".Not without serious bashing or cutting of the strut tower. But whatever........do what you want and give what advise you want......but you really don't have any "facts" at all.
  9. Gloyale
    Pull the oil pan. Ive been burned too man times. I won't buy an engine from a private party unless they let me pull the oil pan to inspect the rods and look for crap in the pan.
  10. Gloyale
    I just press the cups out....the force of the press blows out most of the "stakes".......then I use a Brake hone and/file to remove the rest once the cups are out. Autozone carries a replacement oint that then fits into the yoke and clips inside..DL4130? Easier than it seems at first.
  11. Gloyale
    If this is the Front Wheel drive tranny it will be the shift rod pin. the hole wallers out. fix by threading for oversize bolt per GD's write-up
  12. Gloyale
    +1 If you were in Oregon I would say bring it by. It really has just been screwed in the engine bay....and a bit in the interior....I'll bet it could be sorte pretty easy but gotta be by an expert....that's been chopped up too much propbably just to use an external regulator....Looks worse than it is.. BW wire at the coil will be hot and yellow is Tach.....theres; a start.
  13. Gloyale
    I didn't get it either until I tried to put a Subaru rack into my Trooperu project.........first attmepts yeilded terrible alignment....had to find it out.
  14. Gloyale
    4 or 5 threads in steel is plenty.... in aluminium it's not enough. That's why the factory threads in the EJ block are nearly an inch deep. you don't want just a couple threads of aluminum holding your engine and trans toghether. If I were to run an aluminuim plate, it would be with siamesed bolts.....you're on the right track Uberoo. I would not trust on;y 1/2" of M8 threads.
  15. Gloyale
    96 intake willbe EGR, but the 92 heads will not have the port tapped for egr. and 92 heads may npot be able to be tapped fir the egr best to get whole engine and intake from 95 automatic. that is the magic drop in engine.
  16. Gloyale
    I said "triangulation" earlier....but let me be more accurate....it's actually about keeping parallelograms. You want the tierod link and the control arm to maintain a perfect parallelogram. Both in the horizontal and vertical planes......No matter how you turn or how the suspension travels. A parallelogram with sides of a given length can have any range of angles between 1 and 179. But this parallelogram must have 2 sets of EQUAL sides or else it's not a parralellogram. this means some distances must be equal. rack end to end = A-arm pivot width. Rack postion above a-arm pivot = height from lower balljoint to outer tierod end@knuckle Rack position forward of the axle centerline = horizontal distance axle centerline to outer tierod@knuckle Any of these being off will make trapezoids rather than paralellograms as things move. The angles of a trapezoid cannot be changed without affecting the length (distance) of the sides. This is why the toe of the wheels relative to each other will change when you use a rack wider than the pivots.
  17. Gloyale
    OIl Light and CEL will be on any time that the key is on, and the engine is not running. They do this every time before you start the car.....or any time you stall it......or when a T-belt breaks
  18. Gloyale
    His CEL on;y came on because the engine died from the timing belt. Unless the CEL was on while the engine was running there is not a point in checking codes.
  19. Gloyale
    You need a rack that is the same width from inner tierod to tierod as the A-arm pivot to pivot width. If that is correct......all parts of the suspension stay triangulated the same as the suspension travels, and the wheels are turned....... If thoses widths are different......the triangulation changes as you turn the wheel off center. I used a legacy rack in an EA82.....and it worked well....seemingly.......until we started noticing that when you turn the wheels the toe changes....and it scrubbed the tires terribly.
  20. Gloyale
    a timing light. Also you are probably adjusting the mixture screw not the idle screw. Dead center base of carb is mixture. On the side above throttle linkage is the idle speed.
  21. Gloyale
    Lower the Engine and Trans crossmember 1-1/4" with outback spacers. This will keep the engine/trans level and prevent the U-joint at the back of trans from pointing "up" which would increase it's angle. The radius plates do not need to drop....they can stay put for a 2" lift
  22. Gloyale
    I mean regular Legacy as opposed to "outback" legacy. You shold not need to adjust the shifter with just the 2" I wholeheartedly DISAGREE. You talk of "i've seen" this and that is anecdotal. Do the math and measurements........Make some lift kits and install them and see the difference between strut tops only VS. tops+drop.........and then drive both setups......and work on both types of setups brought to you by customers.........record the findings..........AND then you will see clearly that Tops+drop is WAAAY better. You will eat axles (or at least boots) and wear out your tires running tops only. Not to mention the terrible handling of a maxed out geometry.
  23. Gloyale
    That is the vent. Air comes in for A/C and Heat through the cowl...into the ducts. It goes out through those holes. Wagons they are in the tailgate. Xt's they are in the door sill. but all subarus have them. vent hole so the cabin isn't a sealed box that can't accept outside air.
  24. Gloyale
    buy spacers from a Legacy Outback 96-99..... the ones for the front crossmeber, and the ones for the trans corssmember. get the bolt(s) too. and buy a regular legacy steering coupler. install on your car. done.
  25. Gloyale
    spider rotate backwards. you need correct TPS. 1 connector is just for Idle switch....this is the one with 2 wires in it.....just make it so there is continuity to ground when idle throttle closed, but open when throttle is opend just a hair...... the other connector is the actual potentiometer that measures throttle angle....if you set the switch correct...then the potentiometer part will just do it's thing.
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