Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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85 strut is not the same. you need EA81 struts
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You're rear swaybar may be limiting the downtravel (since rear is bolted to body, not subframe, so doesn't drop with the lift like front does) Like I said, if you want to keep the rear sway, get the dropped brackets from an Outback or Forester And then learn how to drive a bit different. Brake before corner, nuetral throttle on entry, punch the gas out.....this will help keep the weight shifted to the back through the corner, instead of lurching forward and lifting the back end so much. Watch these guys........now THAT's body roll. ---www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYRQzarBOzo--- Might have to copy and paste without the dashes. Can't get the forum to accept this as a link???
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2000 trans is slightly different length. Your shifter may not bolt up properly. It's only about a 3/4" difference so might be okay. You will also need to swap clutch forks, and move the pivot ball before you do (cable clutch vs. Hydro) You'll need to remove the electronic VSS and then install the speedo cable. FWIW, your trans can likely be repaired. Likely the large bearing at the rear of the input shaft is worn. <$200 in parts and doable by a competent mechanic.
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Yes diameter is different but it is the same exact profile, length, shape. Won't change how it hooks up to the links at all unless it's a model new enough to us the ball-pivot links, which I don't think 98 would be. At any rate, you don't need longer links. trying to match handling of a brand new top of the line car with your 25 year old base model may be difficult.
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Metal scraping sound near pulleys
Gloyale replied to Tony Cortado's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
DON'T put anything in the water pumps vent hole. ScoobieDoobie pulled that particular piece of advice out of his own butt, and has been spreading it around for years. It's not recommended by anyone else. If that hole needed to be sealed, it would have been sealed or not even be there. It is open as a vent for a reason, to allow grease in the bearing to expand and contract. You will make it more likely that the inner seal will blow out. If you can't get proper O-rings for the cam end covers, you can simply use a thin bead of "the Right Stuff" black RTV. Don't tighten the 2 bolts for these too much.....easy to strip. timing covers, Just don't run the bolts in too hard, and they won't get stuck in the rear covers. Don't mess with rubber washers or anything else. If you are going to reseal the oil pump, make sure you do all 3 parts, O-ring, "mickey mouse" formed gasket, and the shaft seal. Do not remove the nut holding pulley onto pump shaft while on car. You'll end up rotating the pump backwards and pulling the bypass valve ball out of it's seat. Unbolt the pump body (5, 10mm head bolts) and then use an old timing belt or other padded rubber to clamp the pump rotor into a vice, then remove the 12mm nut that holds the pulley on. -
Yeah that's gonna be exactly the same bar as the one you've got.
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chase the threads with a tap first. m6x1.0 maybe one or 2 holes are stripped? Paper gasket, no sealant. do you have a new, proper o-ring for the extension tube?
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Wife and kids yo. Gotta have room for the car seat, even in the apocalypse.
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Checked level on that long stick while engine running in Park?
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AT temp light on (not flashing) means the trans is over temp or at least the sensor thinks so. If it's doing it on startup or when you otherwise know it's not too hot, then my guess is the temp sensor failed or is shorted to ground. IIRC, it's wire is a shielded wire, so if something nicked it and the shielding is touching the inside wire, you will have this light on.
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That doesn't make sense. Let's forget about standing in front, that's the wrong way to describe sides of a car. Lets go with where things are SITTING in the car looking forward. South Africa, so I am guessing a Right hand drive car. The differential dipstick (for gear oil) is the short one, on the right side of trans (same as the steering wheel) The Automatic transmission fluid dipstick is the long one on the left side of the car. If you filled the dipstick on your drivers side (right side of car) you filled the differential, not the Automatic trans.
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Beater Challenge - And I picked a GL-10
Gloyale replied to User-Matt's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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We didn't get EA81 w/points. We had some EA71 w/ points up to 78? 79? I actually would like to have an EA81 w/ a weber and points ready to go when the Atmospheric EMP pulse hits, lol
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I did an EA81 crank seal and oil pump reseal last week. Didn't touch the radiator. Just pressed seal in by hand, no hammering. There is plenty of room to do both without removing radiator. Why drain all that coolant if you aren't otherwise opening the system? And FYI, subaru still sells an ea81 "reseal" kit with all 4 orings and the flat gasket for like $9 bucks for the kit. I ordered 4 kits to keep them on hand. Get em while you can.
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Crank the engine with the coil lead disconnected for a few seconds. Then fire it up.
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Short answer is yes. must take the driven gear off of an EA81 hitachi disty, and install it onto an EA82 hitachi disty. Must also cut off one of the 2 "ears" and slot out the bolt down hole a bit more. Doesn't work with Denso. The reason for doing this mod is to install the optical disty in the EA81 for SPFI. No reason to do this with carbed engine.
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Sure, it's not hard. But it's way easier while the engine is out.
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1980 DL 4WD Wagon front struts
Gloyale replied to Tims Toy 500's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
an 80 DL here would be an EA81 (gen 2) car (likely with an EA71 engine) but yeah gen 2 body. Brat would still be gen 1 body. I was able to buy brand new sach's strut just last year for my EA81 wagon. -
From what I can see, the impact happened above the plane of the "frame" rail box sections. Engine should be Okay from the impact. My worry would be the plastic intake manifold if it has one. The sheet metal repair should all be to non structural elements. A better look at the strut tower area would be nice to see to say for sure if it' worth the work.
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Yeah I put the 770s in the '10 Impreza. Not sure what to do with the OE spec gasket that come in the kits I order for all the other gasket and seals. And you are correct,the vast majority of 03+ head gaskets I've done have been for external oil leaks. Although there have been some internal coolant/oil mixers and pressure steamers that eventually start overheating. then it's a must change HG situation and usually been overheated a bunch by then.
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fair point. This one was leaking just oil. And just barely. Prophylactic replacement
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I meant the white, stock Brat in the second link could go for 10k or more. The black lifted one in the first link I say tops out at around 8k unless it gets engine upgrade too. And that's conditional to rust inspection on a Tennessee car.
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Nah... That thing is low miles, no rust and clean a heck. I think 10k is a totally fair price. There aren't many original, rust free, complete, low miles Brats out there. Really not many at all. The guy could ask more if you want my opinion.
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your 5 spd only has the one VSS in the cluster. Your speed o cable is broken. Fix that. The cable drives the VSS. Once you fix the cable, the VSS will work
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like $1-1.50 or so. cheap
