Gloyale

I know a guy in Astoria and he and his doctor buddy did it (Baja) in a 98 outback with a moderately beefed up suspension...mostly stock just 1" spacer and good nitrogen charged coilovers......not really "racing" so much as "also running" so that maybe why you didn't hear of it.

Somebody tightened the diff retainer cups down in an attempt to get rid of axle/stub/spine wiggle........heard alot of confusion and storys of people adjusting that to try to solve. Or unknowing mechanic messing with retainer to try to change out axle....seen that too.

Yes it does go all the way to the stops........but on;y because I extended the stops 6". This is something I think alot of people don't do on EA81 lifts and it leads to your question #2......breaking CVs. The above car I have only broken CVs in extreme abuse situations where the CVs themselves get hit by rocks and such.....Otherwise no.....My suspension has been limited in the uptravel as to not overextend the CVs Upward....which is the direction they usually are when loaded up and taking a lot of force.......the drooping axle ssually has alot less weight and traction to it. With EA81 suspension you need to limit "stuffage" and "sideslip" those are the 2 big factors to repeated axle breakage.......that and welded driving on the road......but that's another story. I don't know how my car is when it dose.........I have never put LSD in the gas tank.

Well....VSS ..you'd get a Speed signal if it's in the right spot.....so I'm thinkin you don't. You may have hooked it to the Nuetral switch wire at the ECU.....they are both YG at the ECU connector. Nuetral = pin 14 Vss= pin 22 Neutral on the EJ harness One is the switch wire(Lg/B) other is ground(B/R).....if you looped them you grounded it telling ECU it's in Nuetral.

Hardest part is the full engine wiring harness stripdown. Maybe it's allready been done to put the turbo in the DL??? It's just as much work as an EJ swap. I personally would not do this swap. Your taking the most finicky problem riddled engine subaru has ever made and crammin it into an engine bay were it's even harder to work on.....and your doing a ton of wiring and harness work and CUTTING UP A BRAT CROSSMEMBER to accomplish it. Get a 90-94 legacy for a donor car and use it's Engine/ECU........more power......more available parts......WAAAAY more reliable and it'll fit better in the engine bay. All you need is an Adapter. You do not want an EA82T in your brat. I mean, it would be kinda cool running good but first time there is an issue you are boned......hard to get right parts.....not many heads left.....most of them crack and leak water into the exhaust then overheat....... A/C stuff won't bolt in either almost nothing is a direct swap.

Yellow Green at pin 14 = Nuetral Yellow green at Pin 22 = VSS Nuetral not being hooked up can cause stalling.

You can verify the Flywheel position is correct by comparing the Keyway on the crank to the hashmarks. Keyway straight down = Flywheel on the 3 hash marks I can't imagine getting a flywheel on wrong...but just to verify.

Should be the same as the Windsheild. If it's a hard adhesive....it may have been replaced at some point and they used a urethane glue.........even tho Subaru never did.

VSS....It should be a Yellow/red wire in the optional connector.......It is indeed Yellow/green at the ECU pin 22......but if you are tapping it at the Optional cruise connector its Yellow/red.....in a white 2 pole connector. You should be able to drive it keeping the revs under 4k. I've done it when my VSS went out in the Outback. Nuetral switch......your loyale has one. Hook up the wire from EJ pin 82 (L.Green/Black) to the the Yellow/Green wire either out at the trans connector,....or at the EA ECU connector pin 14 right in the middle/bottom row of the medium sized plug.

How do you mean hooked to itself???? It's on;y one wire from teh ECU.....get's grounded when in gear........open when in nuetral. SO you should run it to ground if anything.....make it think it's in gear might think it's in nuetral all the time if you have it wired wrong.

Neutral switch has nothing to do with safety lockout of starter.....that is a clutch switch. Neutral switch can cause idle and stalling issues but not rev out. That has to be the VSS or perhaps an Air intake leak, MAF issue....something else. O2 sensors would help alot...but still probbably not the issue......

You cannot run a 5spd in 2wd. Mechanical diff.....no electronics. The auto has a FWD mode.......but it controls clutch packs.......there is no center differential in the autos..........Front is full powered always, ......hydraulic clutch locks to engage back but not a differential. cannot send all power to rear.

Yeah....uh.....Nebraska is pretty flat and low elevation. Try driving I-5, I-90/4, or I-80 in mountainous areas....Your EA82 won't do 90.

Stone HG sets FTW

You just need to route the "on" iwre for the AC stystem to the A/C wire of the ECU. There is also an AC cut wire that ussually controls the gorund side of the A/C relay.....so when you stomp the gas.....the ECU can cut the A/C momentarily to allow full engine power.

Have the professional rebuild it. If it costs $1700....it's worth it.....probably be less. Or get a junkyard tranny. Either way works. You area overthinking it. Just fix your car.......You like it......Fix it.......getting anything else would cost more and youd have no idea when that would break.

NZ then??? I thought those Kiwis talked about carbed EJ18s. Like I said.....we replaced the old EA 1.8 with an EJ 1.8 in my girlfriends car, and in my wheeler..... Even with the same displacement, you get better, more reliable power for marginally more weight. And you can still get good parts anywhere for the EJ not true for the EA anymore.

It's this......Mystery R11 connector.......to "center wiring harness".........think it's not connected to anything for your application

IT is NOT for the pushbutton. The pushbutton switch is 3 pins and DOES NOT HAVE A BLACK WIRE IN IT.

You need to ask the SMOG people. May not need the EGR My 88 FSM lists the California spec. MPFI turbo cars as NOT having EGR....nor the solenoid or temps sensor for it. Those are for SPFI only. Specifically EGR is listed for that year charts, but those items all have asterisks*****......and when you look at the notes it says " *except California " meaning in cali no EGR.

You can swap the guts between single range cases EJ vs. EA......but you cannot swap transfer type........EA stays P/T and EJ stays AWD.... Additionally to use the EJ trans you'd need a shorter driveline, and a modified crossmember and shifter. Pushbutton 4wd trans should not be hard to find.....almost all loyales came with them and you are on the west coast.

First off, you do not need to modify framerails of EA81 body cars to fit a SOHC EJ18, EJ20, or EJ22.......or a 2.5 block with those SOHC heads. The weight difference is less than 100lbs........Stock suspension can handle that fine.....if you like.....get some slightly stiffer springs A 130 hp EJ22 is not going to rip frames in half either. EJ257 STI......yes...that will.....but it will blow up the trans first so transfering that much force isn't an issue. My GFs car has an EJ18. Slightly wider 14" rims. Otherwise completely stock suspension and brakes.....and it is a well mannered and totaly safe vehichle on the road......with more HP, better reliability, and easier/cheaper maintanence than the EA82 that was in it. So.....If we are talking regular DD engines and types of cars.....the EJ18, EJ20, EJ22 engines are awesome........you guys can even get carbed manifolds for them way easier than us. Adapter plate, Flywheel, harness......Even if you pay for them not make/strip yourself......still less than $600.....don't know why just the adapter would be $600 in AUS? I do understand the inspection issue is tough for you guys........but the status of an EJ as an "upgrade" is undeniable.

There is a confusing setup for these. Check out this thread I made for the USRM Short story is that if you don't have A/C installed.....you don't have a relay....it's powered directly through the jumper I show in the threadhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140176-ea81-blower-circuit-jumperrelay-connection/?do=findComment&comment=1179606

My info shows the fan control wires at a different connector. I show B134, pins 13 and 14 as the fan wires......14 is main, 13 is sub. That is from a 2003 Legacy FSM so might not be correct for you but it's for a 2.5 of that gen.