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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    Smashed glass can you tell me the wire colors in each plug....Between the Florida sun and Crappy screen resolution I am not sure what colors I'm seeing. specifically B,C, and D. If C wire color is LightGreen/red it is to supply power to the Optional Cruise main switch. If D wire colors are Lightgreen/yellow and Black (with black having continuity to ground) it is definately the clutch switch....Listed in the forward harness of all cars.....equiped w/cruise or not..... E is the stumper for me......Is there any possible chance that it's supposed to be in antoher area? I see it's wrapped somewhat seperately. Also what is the bundle underneath E that runs up toward the wheel? that looks not so factory from that angle. Trying hard to help I love these mystery plug challenges I will remember every single one some day.
  2. Gloyale
    Then the power windows were added. The car would not come factory with power windows but not power locks. Clutch switch and Neutral switch are 2 different things........not connected.......Your thoughts about carbed/FI switches is not accurate. Here is more research....my revised findings very conclusive..... A) Is for the power window relay...it should have a round relay there......Connector P14 of the FSM with all excact wire colors from 88 FSM, section 6-3 page 25 and 131 working on the rest now....will post soon.
  3. Gloyale
    A is for the power window cord......it's not already plugged in he's not got power windows.....it's an usused connector. C is definately not for A/C.....there are no random 1 wire connectors for A/C Red/Black wire in D connector is not from Ig. realy either. My info is based on descriptions adn locations from the 88 FSM........down to the colors and pin #s I am sure what I've started is accurate. I do think this car has or had Dealer install cruise at one point......which would explain B, C, and D as VSS, Power, and Clutch....
  4. Gloyale
    This isn't correct. Something is powering the pump just by the key. Check the fuel pump relay....green connector above the column.......next to the ignition relay.......it may be stuck or jumpered.
  5. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    It really is more of a found object art sculpture with an kinetic offroad theme. Everything I've needed up til very recently has be random parts lying round.........just recently started actually spending money to get the last parts. in order. Not sure I'll make the event this weekend........I hope to at least trailer her there and play.......Competition won't be possible .......I will have to run the ol' EA81 wagon AKA "t-bone" in the event....or just watch....havent' decided. But thanks for the encouragement......I definately will be bringing her up to a meet in WA this summer so hopefully the BoB will be there.
  6. Gloyale
    That's what spring compressors are for.
  7. Gloyale
    That part is the dropping resitor for the Injector power. It's not a relay so I don't know how it would be clicking?? Are you sure the Boost control solenoid isn't the one clicking???
  8. Gloyale
    A: This is were the Power window cord would hook in. B: VSS tap for optional cruise??? C: If it has 12v....Additional power source for Optional Cruise.....if you don't have cruise leave it unhooked........It might also be the EGR reset connector.... D: Clutch switch E: Not sure......wire colors remind me of blower motor...but that's in the wrong area.
  9. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    So....I pulled the Eng/Trans combo.........removed the rear output from trans..........Here's the damage.. Pretty easy fix.....I just slapped another tail piece on. I did weld up the 4wd shift collar.....and modified the selector so that only Hi/Lo can be selected....sorry no pics of that. Got it all back in the rig......Drivelines hooked up center and front......still gotta get the rear diff and driveline in and then get it RUNNING!!!...Oh...yeah...brake lines might be needed too...lol
  10. Gloyale
    You don't know what your missing......there are situations where my Dual E-brakes have saved my arse......with a welded rear....it helps that much more. You aren't gonna need to worry about stopping power....that thing will be so light weight just get rear discs....golden.
  11. Gloyale

    NWWO Run 04/26

    Gloyale replied to one eye's topic in Off Road

    Scott.......you need to 3 link that rear end.......you got a solid axle with no more articulation than a pure subaru rear end.
  12. Gloyale
    Yeah....but then you lose the ability to use the dual E-brake setup as a manual traction control for the front..... And you got Chevy parts on your subaru......Ick.
  13. Gloyale
    Quick google search comes up as an OE german manufacturer....... Not heard of them making a subaru axle though..... Sounds odd but plausible.
  14. Gloyale
    yes there are 2 lines one to each side of the diaphragm.
  15. Gloyale
    When the adjuster starts rubbing......you will hear it.......
  16. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Pulled the cover on the rear of the trans without removing it from the car.....shoved the phone down the tunnel and shot this picture first try! Unfortunately.....it's just as I thought....the landing that secures the output bearing is blown out from the crash..(see red car above)..... On the upside....I got alot else done.....Installed the new balljoints, tierods, and finished the hybrid axles w/ new grease and boots....along with installilng the calipers I got at the junkyard the other day.....just stock 86 trooper calipers to keep it simple. Got the covers back on the diffs......Tapped for 1/4" pipe fitting for vent tube..... And a pic of the T-case shifter.....cut and shut a bit shorter than it was........still got to bend it a bit...
  17. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Moar work.......but moar setbacks..... The T-case is fully "in"....but the tras needs to come back out.....at least a few inches out anyhow...... The D/R I used was in this car when it was crashed...... Yo can see how far back the force transfered..........I think when the D/R shifter was twisted and shoved violently into the back of the case........it broke the shfit collar.....IDK....I gotta go pull it and find out......all I know is I put the T-case in hooked up a driveline and shifter but can't get the rear transfer of the D/R to fully engage.....it catches and then slips makes a grumble like synchros riding but not engaging. I will post Pics of what I find tonight.
  18. Gloyale
    This is what I order excactly but I go through a wholesaler like IMC or Worldpac.........but that's my lucky rump roast........
  19. Gloyale
    How do you know???? Are you the first owner or got it from the 1st owner? I hardly ever see an EA82 that's got it's original motor. Just curious not arguing.
  20. Gloyale
    Stone brand are the OE from japanese supplier........WAAAAY better than felpros..... Stones HG sets are what I use all the time.......the come with Factory HG's.......sometimes the cam seals are not quite OE but the HGs always are.
  21. Gloyale
    It's gonna warm up quickly for sure....... The heater core is the bypass before the T-stat opens...... I would just unkink it.....should be fine....looks like a clean car.
  22. Gloyale
    The vacuum canister pulls/pushes a cable. The electronics are easy....... Why not just fix the Vac system?.......it's identical to the 4wd shifter on S/R ea82s 5spds.......So parts are easy to get. the switch is just a double throw..........Power goes in.....then out to one solenoid or the other........Which ever solenoid gets power opens to vacuum and effects the cable. If you build something custom you will have to make some kind of "detent" for it to hold it in one position or the other as this function is done by the stock systems cable.
  23. Gloyale
    One wire is 12v One wire is ground the other 2 are the signal from transistor. You can figure the ground and 12v by unpluggint the connector and probing for 12v and continuity to ground. After that......hook a test light to 12v and probe the remaining 2 wires during cranking.....you should see pulse in the light......If there is no pulse...the transistor is supect.....If the light pulses....but you don't get spark......your coil is bad. I Would disconnect and reconnect the main engine connectors to make sure you don't just have a loose connection.
  24. Gloyale
    He's got the light.....so the wire is likely already going to the switch. What does this have to do with a water pump? You mean oil pump???
  25. Gloyale
    K+N filters.....even properly oiled......will let far more and larger particles through......they are engine killers. Never run K+N air filters. They are junk.........false sense of "upgrade" is all you get from them.
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