Gloyale

Not sure in Aus but here in the US there were major ECU and head changes from 05 to 06 The biggest one being the Active Vaviable Valve Lift on the 06....and also I believe that was the swap to the Deadhead Fuel rail rather than looped/return. And IIRC the first "Drive by wire" throttle body. Pretty big differences.........you could swap heads and pistons to make the shortblock work.....(can't use the AVVL pistons with non AVVL heads......Piston is domed and AVVL head is domed to match)

If the trans is a manual it's fine to tow 4 wheels on the ground. Even an auto, if they didn't go fast would be fine.......maybe some wear on the transfer clutch but should be ok.........flat towing is better than 2 wheels on a dolly......that is the worst for subaru. I owned a Legacy automatic that had been flat towed behind a motor home most of it's life, for almost 200k miles. It ran great up to about 300k when the trans went out..... And really, You Can't really blame them (the borrower) for the initial loss of coolant...........Why did it lose coolant? Who worked on it last? Sounds like that's on you. Honestly I'd be WAAAAY more worried about an engine run without coolant til it wouldn't go than that trans. The engine is the bigger worry......it's likely toast if it was run til it stopped with no water.

I would plug it. Those things fail and leak and are vulnerable to rocks offroad. If you don't need it.......Get rid of it so it doens't break off and strand you or leak all you're oil out slowly either way a plug will be better, less risk.

The cylinder liner does not reacht the top of the block......it's cast into place not pressed. There is a "cap" of aluminium over the top of the iron sleeve about 1/8" thick..... One of the reasons you can't deck them far......that cap gets thinner and becomes a little ribbon of aluminium that soaks with heat and can melt or deform at that point.

.016 is the Factory spec on the limit to how much can be taken from the surface. .060 is way too much. Get a different block....they are easy to find. Sorry Subruise if you are trying to sell that it's toast.......parts block or experiment

Sorry......Somehow the wrong video got uploaded. I am workin on the good one. Shoot....I might just refilm the whole dang thing.....I look like hell in that one. Farkin Photobucket

Grab another diff and throw that Beaaach in!!! takes all of farkin 20 mins...........c'mon man..........diff up.

Does your car have an oil pressure gauge??? If not.....your oil pump has been swapped........they didn't bother taking out the oild sender and finding a plug......... they just installed the Oil switch for the light and left the sender sittin there with the remnants of it's wiring from whatever it came from hangin out. There is nothing wrong......remove that thing and plug the hole with a 5/8ths plug.

You gotta be kidding me......How did I miss this build? It's so much like mine in so many ways.........XT engines, NIssan/Subaru/Isuzu and other mashed toghether bastard half frame.......I like yours better....haha....J/K....but almost.......... Here's Cleo in the latest phase.... and my build thread...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142045-trooparu/ We've got to get these 2 rigs toghetehr att some point once they both run......

I am assuming his car has a Oil Light, not gauge..........Either a Loyale, or DL model.......And it's had an oil pump or whole engine swap at some point from a GL or Loyale w/gauge. You can see up in the left corner is the Oil Light Switch..........It threads into a different port that the variable sender for the Gauge....which is the open hole below it.

Things you would need to change other than just removing spacers. Front A-arm pivots.....need ones from Leg/Imp Rear trans crossmember. Front driveline section w/carrier. Remove spacers for exhaust heatsheild in center tunnel. Steering link Dogbone mount. Rear trailing arm brackets...need one from Leg/Imp. Possibly shifter modification if yours is manual.

No, I believe they are refering to Wheel spacers.....and rubbing on the spring perch....not the fenders. Forrester wheels are 5mm deeper offset.

Finally recieved the Nissan T-case seals from NissanPartsOnly.com.......Great resource......$15 bucks for 3 genuine seals. Good to know for all the t-case crowd. Next on to the rear driveshaft.......Now, because I needed a bit more angle to this I had to go ahead and use the Large t-case flang on the Nissan at the rear.....I ended up needing to redrill it AGAIN....so now it's got 3 patterns....o well....It worked out great because of some common dimensions shared with it's Japanese cousins. Here it is all tucked up into the chassis Isuzu Trooper Front Driveline and Nissan Pathfinder driveline. Cut and sleeved Welded.....Perfect. Large style subaru rear diff flange, notched to accept Isuzu yoke. Notice the different size to the inner centering ring.....smaller on the larger flange. The centering ring matches the isuzu.....that's why I chose this one.....the notches aren't ideal...but they will work and the centering is done by the lip. Now for the input shaft into the T-case.......I got lucky......Just so happens that this 76 Datsun 280Z driveline fit PERFECTLY.......I swear....I didn't plan this....but it happened........slides right into the subaru 5spd. and bolts to the Nissan T-case input. JOY! And a few other tidbits.... Removed the rear diff after driveline fitting. It's got the cover off and draining into this old box. Gonna weld up these for full Lincon Lockers! Front diff too hehe Had to remove the belly armour to get the front diff out....that's fine cause I gotta weld up some seems on it anyhow. And Finally the new Front suspension joints.......China.........ehh.....

Pressure sending unit for the gauge.

My Bro runs 235/75/15 Bighorns on a Legacy.......Using Forrester rims and Outback struts.....3" lift blocks barely any triming. Not sure why you guys need spacers???

No they aren't......These are the ones with different depth.....it can be done......but the cotter pin won't go in the axle nut when done. REAR hubs and drums are all the same in depth EA81 vs. EA82....that part is not an issue for rears....but ......see below. No they aren't.....Same diameter.....EA82 shoes can be used in EA81 drums but not the other way around because of ea82 self adjuster. (2wd EA82 no adjuster......exactly same as EA81) No.........The EA81 drums will interfere with the Self-adjuster on the EA82 setup.....you may not even notice at first bolt up....but after driving take it off and the adjuster will show rubbing.....it depends where the adjuster is at in it's throw at full "out" it will catch the back of the studs.... EA82 drums will work no problem on an EA81 setup.......no self adjuster on ea81 it's all manual.....can use EA82 shoes on EA81 also. Newer on Older = GOOD Older on Newer = NO GOOD

Hi all. I set up the O-scope the other day too test a optical disty before shipping it off. Thought I would make a little video to show the process. This particular disty is an 87....that was modified for EA81 use. So it looks a bit odd..... This one had the round plug.....and in 87 the pins are different position on the ECU......so using different year dists can require swapping pins on the body side connector. The wire colors on the distys themselves did not change over the years. <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid209.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb29%2FGloyale%2FIMG_1042_zps1b8d61b1.mp4&title=">

The flywheel and clutch you have are fine and will work. The step difference between EA and ER( 4cyl vs. 6cy) is on;y .015" It will still work fine with the flywheel you have. You just need to get them to line up. If needed....you can leave teh PP bolts loose......install the engine/trans....the tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole.

Guts from an EJ AWD into the XT6 trans front case halves. Bolt it up. Done.

0.815 is factory spec for ER27(XT6) 4wd 0.830 is factory spec for EA82 4wd 0.812 is what I have mine stepped to.

Do you mean drivers vs. passenger side? The position where the cams line up the Drivers side cams will be loaded.....this is normal.

" I was just talking to a guy from one of the repair shops around here and he said at 130,000 miles the job could damage my engine and he wouldnt want to be responsible for that so he wouldnt want to do the job. " That guy is full of crap.......repairing the headgasket will not damage anything else. He's afraid it will leak again...... which, if it's not done right with the correct gaskets it could.....but done right it won't.

totaled.......for all but a redneck wheeler....it's a shame too that looks like a nice car.....I am assuming the front Pug wheel was destroyed? Put your damn phone down.....consider this a warning sign from the universe before you kill someone. Glad you're ok.

That honestly sounds like a good quote for the area you are in. He's bound to struggle with rust, broken bolts...the long linkage bolt in the rear is a beeetch! You might even want to be ready to add a few $ to that bill if things are difficult.

The trans comes up and hits the body...... Even with exhaust off You shouldn't need to lift more than 1" to do headgaskets on a 2.2. in a 90 legacy. If you need more room on one side......set the jack offcenter and lift one side at a time.