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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. That looks correct. The marks in the plastic can be decieving.....disrtorted from heat/time..........Dead nuts straight up 12 o'clock is correct. I would suspect a vac line???
  2. It is possible......many have done it........cut the splined portion off the top.......with enough shaft below it to sleeve into your extension tube.....Bolt the pieces in.....measure the sleeve.....insert sleeve.........double check all bolted in....then tack weld, remove, final weld...........done.
  3. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Alright....... Had to go to the PnP today to get a new steering rack. The one on my DD is puking it's guts out at an alarming, and smoky rate. As it seeps directly onto the exhaust. Found an Excellent condition low miles rack from a 93 2wd Loyale sedan........Just what I was hoping to find......the 2wds don't get beat to piss the same way usually. So while I was there i looked over in both the Isuzu and Nissan truck areas......Found some scores for sure. 2, 86 Trooper calipers, a direct bolt up for Cleo (as this prokect has become known) 1 Nissan early Pathfinder front driveline......An almost perfect flange mount for newer subaru "large" r160 diff flange And a whole 96ish Isuzu Amigo front right Knuckle, Rotor, Caliper, and CV axle......<<<<For future mock up of larger front axles/knuckle/brake Best part of all is that this junkyard is in the next town over, closer to were the "Moutain Top Mud Jam" happens.....And there was a flyer on the counter that said it's MUDDER FORKING HAPPENING!!!!!! MAY 3-4 in Scio, OR......2 weeks to get ready........CRAP!!!! And then after all that I got home to find my Tierods and Balljoints have arrived!!! FREEKIN AWESOME!!!
  4. Carb and manifold toghether will bolt on to your car. Nah.....sorry.......85 is a 3rd gen.......EA82 engine with 2 timing belts. 1-1/16" As in 17/16ths........just a hair over 1 inch... Bolt the inner rail to the seat... use 2 strips of flat metal with holes 1-1/16th apart to mount the outer rail closer in towards the middle of the seat........the rails should land right on the OE holes this way.
  5. Why not whole new cylinder? They are so cheap. My FSM's only list 11/16 for 2wd sedans and 3/4 for 4wd. All of them So from the 85 FSM your 4wd wagon should be 3/4......this is all new to me.....I always though they were all the same for a given brake type.....which I guess they are....2wds are manual adjust........4wds are self adjust........ 5/8ths though??? Someone put EA81 2wds on there???
  6. Is the seal of the intake boot to the turbo good? You could have an air leak before the turbo.....builds pressure....but pulling in the air from the leak rather than through the MAF......throws off the readings.......ECU doesn't deliver enough fuel for the given RPM/boost/load.
  7. 6207-RS-C3 is pretty ideal.... But really any 6207 bearing will work.
  8. Cut it in the middle of the rod, find pipe that fits snug over. Bolt in both ends with the pipe sleeved over the middle........Tack weld to set the length........then pull it back out and weld it up solid. It's good to have some water or at least a compressed air blowtip to cool the area near the joint after welding........so the heat doesn't burn out the grease and seals. Shifter I extended with a curved piece from a swaybar.........curve kinda "notches" around the rear of the shifter opening.
  9. 2wd rear brake shoes and cylinders, backing plate.....will be the same. Not much else. Carb can bolt on but will be different.....need whole intake manifold to do it. Seats are 1-1/16" inch wider between the rails.......a few pieces of steel with hole can adapt that. not much else really. Fuel pump will work.....Alt....I don't think so......too small but not sure.
  10. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    I think it's just a mock up. Looks somewhat feasable..... Although I don't know how that the "hat" of the disc will fit over the subaru Disc hub......and it woudl act as a wheel spacer if it did. and then there is the issue of the backing plate......It would need to put the capliper much further outward horizonatally (closer to wheel) and radially (for bigger rotor) Looks totally doable......I like the rear cable e-brake......just......not sure it's needed for this one...especially since I done have a set of disc hubs laying round. Now my EA82 wagon w/ 4.11 AWD has got discs.......and dual E-brakes already on the front................hmmm...........If I converted to cable pull E-brake rears, and added 2 more handles somewhere...............I could have my own Fully Manual/Bio-Analog X-mode!!! THAT....would be useful. Tangent complete
  11. 15 is about right But you have to be prepared to check and fill often. Sand works in under the bead and begins to let the air seep out slowly. Check every hour or 2.
  12. You are correct.....it's the AntiAfterburn valve.......I mispoke. ASV are the reed valve boxes coming off the exhaust..... But my point was that the correct EGR would have a large port on it for that to hook up.
  13. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    I have looked into that some.... But i figure for a wheeler buggy the rear drums will be fine....for now.... I may end up with the Isusu rear discs........but they will be on a Dana 44 from a Rodeo......haha.
  14. the third line goes under the intake....across to the passenger side, and into the charcoal canister.....it connects the canister to the vent line on the tank.
  15. No bed or rear quarters??? You may have a structure issue if you don't add some kind of tube bed......and seal the exposed unibody cavities...... But it will be a bad mother wheeler fo sure.
  16. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    2003 rodeos use a 290mm rotor, and 2004 Es300 caliper will bolt to trooper hub made to use with 294mm rotors.........even better
  17. It doesn't even "need" to be there.....it just gives Coolant to the carb base. But it doesn't flow.....it's just a dead end passage from what I recall. so you could just cap the tube. Or just use generic hose and bend it around....it'll be fine.
  18. I don't think there is any knd of o-ring in there.....just the metal gasket. Correct for that car would have a large tube coming off the side running over toward passenger side of engine bay to "Air Suction Valve". If you don'd have the air suction valve it's been removed.....and probably the EGR you have on there the tube is capped, or it's been replaced with one like that listing.......used on the SPFI and MPFI models.
  19. You need to pull the oil pump and tighten the screws on the back side of the rotor housing......they are loose....and this is why you are seeing an oil light come on. You also need to wait at least 15 mins before checking oil level.......the Subaru flat engine takes a while to drain back.....there are baffles in the pan.....and it has to flow nearly flat.........and if the car is at a slight angle one side will not even fully drain back at all until the car moves again....holding up to a quart or more inside one of the valve covers... I think you are getting confused by these 2 things.
  20. Why are you replaceing it??? If your EGR light is on, you just need to reset it by swapping the blue/green connectors under the drivers side of the dash. EGR light comes on every 60k miles as a reminder to clean crud out of the valve. If you do need an EGR....that isn't the correct OE one for carbed....which I assume you have....
  21. Uhh.....64/100ths is ...............over 5/8th an inch........I don't think it's moving that much.....lol Wheel bearings......plain and simple...... If the cone washer and nut are tight....and the axle wiggles in the hub it's wheel bearings.....every time. Hammering axles in and out will often wear them out.....as it stresses the inner race in a lateral direction. best to install new bearings with a new axle......they are so cheap.....
  22. I don't think there is any difference in the brake cylinders......you don't really want bigger......you'll have to push the pedal further to apply pressure.
  23. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Went to the wreckers today to try to find brakes.......No luck.......at least not for 86 trooper.....I checked some 88's but the knuckle and mountings changed in 87..... I got an idea though....... I found later troopers/rodeos/etc......use a larger 280mm rotor.....that bolts into the OE hub..... 2000ish Toyota Camry uses a Front caliper that shares mounting bolt spacing with the 86 trooper.......and is made to work with 275mm rotors......a difference of only 2.5mm at the edge of the rotor vs. 90's Isuzu............gonna try that..... Mmmmmwwaaaahahahahaha........the maddness gets madder!!!
  24. Pry open the casting slightly and drop the balljoint out. no need to remove the knuckle. PB and a wedge in the gap and it should come right out. I can't see the problem here.
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