Gloyale

The thing with 6 wires is the Fuel Pump control relay. The other 4 are Blower, Defrost, and Left and Right headlights. The flasher unit should be ontop of the steering column IIRC? Round and I think only 2 wire. 2 spades right angle to eachother.

First Gen Legacy rear axles use an inner DOJ with a deeper cup...about 10~12mm longer...... You can swap those cups onto the axles with the CV at the outer to make a it a bit more "stretchy". But whatever you do make sure you have your Up and Down travel under control. Uptravel is generally not an issue with EA82 since the coilover effectively limits uptravel even after a lift. (ea81s will stuff all the way up with lift hyperextend under compression. Gotta add bumpstomps) With the deeper cups, I would check that the shaft doesn't hit the lip of the cup at full drop.

There is both An electric kickdown solenoid. Hydraulic solenoid, not vacuum. Operates when gas pedal is depressed all the way. Also, there is a vacuum control diaphragm, or "modulator" it would be called on old american 3spds.........It should hold the shift point higher as intake vacuum goes down (Full open throttle) I would guess your problem sounds more like the vacuum "modulator". Check the vac line to it and check that it holds vac when applied with a pump.

Yeah.....but who the hell wants to drive their lifted subaru around on little tiny 13's?......talk about tipsy. And who wants to swap 4 wheels everytime to hit a little trail? I pull an axle for my welded diff and that's already annoying after it's all covered in mud getting ready to go home. There's no way in hell I would want to cram 4 big muddy ATV tires in the back of my wagon at the end of the day to drive home. Yeah...let's load 500Lbs of muddy tires into the trunk then cruise around with a 6" lift and practically donut spares on the road. Bighorns every time.........I'll follow you anywhere you want to go in the mud. Then I'll leave and drive home on em'

I feel like this should go without saying. I am glad you did say it though so it's clear. You could claim copyright.....and public display without permission, even not for profit would be a violation. And for sure YouTube is for profit.....not nessecarily for the uploader....but for YouTube corp.

Hold the clutch in while bleeding the Rear right, and Front left.

One is the Vac supply from the engine.......the other is vac "output" to the diaphragm mounted at the gas pedal. There should also be a large round black plastic canister/resevior "T"d into the supply line.....I don't see it mounted there?

Don't blue devil it....especially not a second time........heater core and radiator can become clogged from those products. Do you know what brand of headgasket was used? And do you know for sure that the machine work was done? By a good shop? IDK, I would say redo the headgaskets with genuine subaru HGs. Replace all coolant hoses and clamps and do your timing belt and water pump too since it's out. Might want a new radiator too. I know the salted roads out there eat cars up. Or you could gamble on a used engine.....It's possible that would be cheaper, and the one you have may be trashed from overheating....hard to say why it would fail after on;y 3 years again......other than cheap gasket/poor quality work.

That's a kinduv general thought on headgaskets that applies to most old Iron engines....but not so much to subarus. On a Subaru....low compression on one bank of cylinders is ussually always a timing issue.....valves open wrong time= weak/no compression. It on;y makes sense....since you see the one thing that pairs a set of cylinders on a side is the CAM.

I never really saw a need for that since the flat fits under the hood anyhow? I guess a 185/75/13 with an older Carbed aircleaner setup is tricky to fit in there......but they do fit......espescially flat.

i think he needs to be able to drive on the road.

We could put VERY tall snorkels on our rigs and drive over eh?

All it requires from the engine is Throttle Position Signal. But they are hard to find......heavy.......mostly worn out at this point. finding an EA belled old one from a MPFI car......that's a hard find and they are all 3.7 sucky ratio espescially behind an NA EA82. Maybe a Full EJ22 swap with a EJ4eat..........that'd be cool....... But really...... unless you REALLY need an automatic.......like your limited mobility or missing limbs or something.....I would keep the 5spd.

My bighorns have 4 years on them........just getting to the end of life now.....of course I don't drive my wheeler everyday.... I have to say though.....that my experience with other models of general passenger tires makes me not want to try out the Grabbers........Generals have been some of the worst tires I 've ever driven on. I bought a set from Big-O tires in 2004 for my delivery car. Returned them under there "ride quality garaunteed" policy after 3 days.........They felt flat and wallowy even after checking the pressure several times. They didn't want to give me my money back. Said they could credit me towards a higher priced, "better" tire. I refused. They could not produce any written acount of what their "garauntee" actually entailed. They tried to make me spend more money after selling me a crappy product to begin with. I wanted to buy Cooper tires, which I found elsewhere for slightly less than I paid Big-O for the generals.....They wouldn't order me the Coopers....(seems dumb....they could of at least kept my business) Took days of showing up at door open with ads from other places and a letter to Big-O corporate and the BBB before they cut me a check. I went and bought the Coopers. I personally will not buy Generals after that experience......Big-O ruined it for them. BIGHORNS !!!

They are all M8 x 1.25 (12mm head) 3 shorties hold the pump to the bracket. 2 more slightly longer hold bracket to engine....and one more, Longest one goes on the bottom of the bracket hole closest to the crank. 2 little M6 (10mm head) for the power steering lines.

It may not be electrical......it may be something wrong mechanically putting the Intake pressure out of range of normal. I would suggest spraying starting fluid around the base of the intake to check for vac leaks at idle..... And then I would suggest verifying that the timing is dead on......your "bubbling" sound could be valve timing one or 2 teeth off......and if the T-belt lets go on that engine the valves are toast.

You'll need to get rid of the the 90s' Auto Seatbelt lap belt setup on the rails......and install the 95 buckle onto them.

I've seen a 90 Lego front clip (hood,fenders,bumper) on a 95+ body before.........Bit of a weird gab at the door edge, but otherwise it looked pretty good......I really had to double take on it. So......Yeah.....anythings possible.

You don't even need to ground it......just disconnect that wire for the Duty C........... No power to duty C = Full pressure to transfer clutches. To the OP......you can get groceries like that.....yes........But it is excessively hard on the transfer clutches.....so I would not drive if you don't have too and be gentle if you do.

Nah......He's pretty much gotta stick with stock motor. 2006 they got the AVVL (or whatever they call the active variable valve lift).......Unless he used those heads........even a Phase II 2.2 won't run right....throw codes That new of a car, I would find a low mileage replacement......easy to drop in and go and there should be lots of low mileage engines in that year range (2006~2009)

Oh yeah.....that's a knock. Rod Knock that is. I'll bet the previous owner never changed the oil.

BIGHORNS!!! You live in Wet Washington Grabbers suck in the mud. Maybe if you were in Moab.

Finished the rear shock mounts today. Finally not bouncy. And then started in on the Re-pinning of the 87 harness to match the 88+ engine loom. 1 pin stayed the same, and 6 others at least re-pinned in the same connector. The rest will have to be cut/spliced into a matching 88 connector.

Guys.......The new axle didn't break..... Just the one that broke while he was gone was not hte side he expected........ You see.....both axles were bad......One just went a few months before the other. It won't stay in park if EITHER front axle is broken.......since the open diff will spin on the broken side allowing the whole ring assembly to rotate while the Pinion is still locked.

Vent line with the T goes into the small hole on the side of intake boot. 2 lines in the last picture with the spring clamps on the end.....these go to the Turbo.....One is pressure to the Wastegate solenoid....the other is Output to the Wastgate from the solenoid. Judging by the bend...the one in your hand goes on the port on Pressure side of turbo outlet. That's the dealer installed setup. There is supposed to be a Check valve and an extra resevior to work in the turbo models......Although....the extra canister is bulky, close to the turbo.....so it get's ditched.......or like one I've owned.....it catches on fire from turbo heat. I repaced it with a Knudsens Juice glass bottle with a hose shoved through the cap. It worked fine.....although on very long stretches I would occasionally have to apply some thottle then let off to create a bit more VAC to keep the resevior "full" (or empty?) of vacuum.