Gloyale

More work yesterday........unitl I ran out of wire in the MIG......dooh!! Anyway........trimmed the rusty rotted Sunroof lip.........The velour window trim makes an excellent rubber edging to cover the cut edge. Prepped the floor for the Isuzu Trooper seat base.....Once this is installed.....an EA81 seat or trooper seat will bolt right in.......Not sure which I'll use yet. Radiator mocked up......The original seat back tabs are going to make ecxellent radiator lower supports........Also found a Battery tray.....I might use it. And more work on the rear end. Got the all but the lower left rail inplace and welded in. Reinforced the drop portion of the diff mount/slider. Trailer hitch/rear skid plate mount installed. (old class II minivan hitch). It's clear at this point I am not goin to bob the back end loke I had originally thought......I like the look of the complete car sitting up that high. If all is correct the OE bumper will bolt back on over this......or I'll make something custom resembling the OE look. This is where I ran out of wire..

Bogus... I would be happy to do a harness for you.

PM me........I'll work out a way to get you pics or scans....It's kinduv a long section.

"I will run the field/L wire to the same 12V switched power that the ecu will get power from and I will wire in a 50 ohm resistor" This should at least work......although the resitor may cook after some time....IDK. 50 ohm may be too high also.....the little tiny lightbulb is probably only light 5~10 ohms....Prolly should measure one to find out. Seriously.....though.......I have to ask...........Did you have a Tramatic Childhood Accident involving a Lite-Brite board??? I means Seriously......why so much resistance to a tiny light bulb??? (pardon the pun)

Nah.....they are all diagonal. Some got rid of hillholder.....but they are are dual diagonal here for sure up through 3rd gen I know.......I guess I can't be positive past that.

You've got your Tank Vent and Return capped don't you....... Put the you could put charcoal canister back in. That's why they had them.... Or get a vented gas cap.

It balances pressure between the 2 circuits of the braking system. Doesn't care how big/small/heavy the car is. It just keep the 2 circuits equal It could be use on any vehichle with even a remotely similar capacity system.

It's just a balancer. Could be used from anything. It's not like a variable one in the back of toyota pickups for when carrying load.(those are not diagonal systems)

More vacuum at the regulator.........Less overall vacuum in the engine with throttle open. The pump needs to put out more pressure when applying more throttle i.e......more ABOVE THROTTLE vacuum. Maximum intake vacuum is closed throttle at idle......that is when pressure at the injector is lowest.

I am not flaming you. I am trying to give you accurate information you asked for. "L" terminal is for the charge lamp.....needs switched 12v THROUGH A LOAD to excite the feild. "S" terminal gets either Battery volts......or switched 12v.....depending on what model used. Doesn't really matter....this is just reference for the Voltage Regulator Main Charge wire should go back to battery through a Fusible link or Maxi fuse I was serious I liked wheelin with you Robert. My intention is always to help. Sometimes that isn't clear.....sorry.

Pressure is raised as Vacuum is applied. At idle there is no Vac to the regulator...so pressure is at it's lowest......And free Revving in Nuetral doesn't load up the engine enough to really produce alot of above throttle vacuum when observing it. What you would want to do is Put a vac pump onto the Regulator and hit it with a few pump see if the idle goes up. MPFI setup is opposite.....since many of them are turbos....the less Vac the Higher pressure fuel.

Not really odd......If you look at were the return line goes back into the tank it's near the bottom. Every time you brake and fuel sloshes forward it was probably was siphoning some out. As stated those are the Vent and Return lines. The one that was leaking on the right in the picture is the return.....the other larger one is the vent

I can take more of them if you need. And also thought I should get the same section from the 88 manual. That way you can compare connectors/pins.

You might not get alot here....... We didn't get EJ20's here in US..... BUt if both use the same SOHC heads......I would just swap the EJ20 longblock in with the existing EJ18 intake.

Sweet! Thanks for updating...... Your ex-girlfriend isn't the only one who needs closure

well......double check all gthe intaske boot clamps, PCV hoses, Vac lines for anything out else out of place. If it ran fine before and all you did was belts it's the belts or else something is not hooked back up right.

Carb needs the emulsions tubes cleaned, the venturi o-rings changed.......and the choke set..... PM me if you really want me to come look at it........ Otherwise....I can help somewhat via this forum...... I would suggest buying a carb kit.....and pulling the top off the carb.....blow out the jets and emulsion tubes..... Hitachi's are a pretty simple carb.

Nope......green 87 and after....87 first year of fulltime...

You should be able to buy a generic Japanese replacement handle at Autozone or any store with a "Help" section. If not wreckers you can look for toyota/nissan/80's/90's hondas.......for the same type of handles. Or...if you get all the parts.....and the PW harness (which is seperate and easy to get) and install them in the doors all the connectors are there in the body harness. I put power windows in 3 of my 4 doors......I retained the drivers door as manual since I can reach it.

Duh......That's what I said here..... Perhaps you didn't understand that. I was not saying any studs had to be removed for that part. Not really....that's why I went on to say this. indicating the troubles associated......and why it's a PITA unless you are removing the exhaust for other reasons.

Just to clarify......the picture posted shows the belt position in with the crank at TDC on compression #1. They should be rotated (90 at the crank=45 of the Cam) to observe and set the Cam timing w/3 hash marks. Also.....what you are calling Right and left are confusing......Are you speaking looking into the engine bay from the front? or of the Car?........ Generally we refer to the directions of the car.....like sitting int eh drivers seat in the USA that's the "left" side of the car even though looking from up front it's on your right. It is your left or right belt that broke? All I can say is it's very easy to be a tooth off of excactly vertical w/ the crank and 180 from eachother.

Here's what I got. They show clearly the wiring connectors specific to the Spider intake w/ all the odd ball 87 connectors.......Disty, Engine, TPS are all different connectors and pins. 87 only. From the 87 model year Manual print date Feb. 87.

Sounds like torque converter is not locking. Toghether with Flashing AT Temp light could mean bad lock up solenoid .(B?) Pulll Codes

One Eye ran Buttters that way for a while..... And I am setting this up to be N/A

I think it's 3 screws just like a DL/GL.......but on;y 2 of them will line up.