GoldDiggerRoo

I've had several cars that have had this issue, Subaru's and other, since it seems to come and go rarely, I never felt like putting much time/money into replacing parts. So, I'll tell you how to fix it for less than $5. Take two wires, run one to the bolt on (hot) wire on the starter, the other into the black plug that goes onto the starter (you could tie it in some other way I guess). Hook them both up to a momentary toggle switch from Radio Shack and next time you have the problem, hit the momentay and it'll turn right on over. On most older american cars the same can be acheived by hooking the wires to the starter relay.

I finally found my haynes manual, which describes the testing proceedure, but I'm still rather unsure as how to work this multimeter. Oh yeah, I do have an ultrasonic. What I meant to say in my previous post is that removing the plug wire for 3 made no difference at all. I got a chance to put the noid light on it too, injectors are firing fine, all of them... so I'm still guessing I have a bad injector. Also, I am not getting any bubling coolant overflow, I'll try an find my compression tester in the next few days though and do a check anyhow. I have no exhaust leak before the turbo either, I do however have some big cracks in the intake hose going from the maf to the turbo. I did try to pull the injector today, but I couldn't free the fuel rail from the hoses after I unbolted it from the head/intake, besides the clamps it does just slide on, right?

Ok, so I picked up a multi-meter and noid light set today, for $14..... much better than the $40 they would've cost at the parts store. Haven't had a chance to use them yet, but the car is running better today.... still has the miss, but considerably better.... for now.

I've always used 1/2 to inch thick boards, like for decks and things to jack from. To lay down on, I actually have a sheet of wet suit material, it works wonders, takes all the sharp points of gravel away.

Could be worth a shot, I'm openn to any ideas right now..... that's why I really want to check the TPS, being that the surge happens near WOT. No, don't have a multi meter yet, I'll pick one up tomorrow, need some c clamps anyhow. I would need some advice on how to use/read the multi meter though. Haven't done the fuel filter yet, will do soon (maybe tomorrow) I have run some FI cleaner thru it, doesn't seem to help.

I suppose it could still be bad, but it currently exhibits none of the the typical issues related to the coolant temp sensor being out, I had all of them before when I had the CEL and since cleaning up the connector I have had none of the hard starting issues associated with a bad CTS. If the injector doesn't return a positive result I'm going to replace that and the o2 sensor I guess. I still don't have any of the proceedures on how to check the proper operation of the TPS and such, anyone have some scans or PDF of it for me? I'm looking to rule anything and everything out as the cause of this problem.

This what my car has, on every hose. This:(the offender) or this:

The disty cap and rotor are good, and being that the issue went away for a while, I really don't think it's going to be a timing issue or anything related to spark, I'm getting great spark, both at the cap and at the plugs, the inital miss seems to be an injector issue, I could be wrong, but that's what I'm gonna try first. I'm really concerned with the WOT one the most right now.

It will be neither on this thing, it's the factory style that uses a regular philips headed type screw, both at the firewall are pointed down, gonna break out the stubby on them tomorrow, or the rotozip...either way. I guess they put these things on before the trans went in, the only way I see it could've be done. Got my hose tonight and about 6 hose clamps, factory be damned!

Yeah, I lothe the EA82, but I really want this car to work, it's a great platform for what I want to do and I love the features it has, the miss is just a setback, or atleast I keep telling myself that...... I didn't pull off the injector wire itself, I pulled off the sparkplug wire going to that cyl. (that's what Frank recomended), made a huge difference on every one except that one, didn't change a thing with it off. I'll try and pull the injector and clean it tomorrow, I'm also going to call a friend to see if he has a Noid light I can use for a few minutes. As for junkyard injectors, I know that turbo Z injectors are upgrades, I have an '83 N/A 280zx sitting around..... could I maybe swap in one or four from that if the cleaning doesn't work? This is my first fuelie subaru (not counting my RS) and one of the few MPFI cars I've owned, none of which I've done fuel system work on.... I'm slightly lost with this stuff. I can afford the $20 for a noid light, but I'd rather not buy one to use rarely if I can borrow it, this is not my first old car.......just my one of the few new old cars I've had, I'd be doing much better with a carb.

I kinda expected that, had heater hose issues earlier.

I'd love to but at this point I don't have a choice, I have to make it work..... I'm currently kinda unemployed and have sunken most of my money into this thing so I don't have to walk to and fro

I so need to foward this to another board member, who's given up on his turbo sube in favor for a Turbo Eclipse.

Rather than have a million posts for each problem I'm having with the wagon I figured I'd just start one, include all the info about what is going on with it and let you guys be the judge and hopefully I'll get this thing straigtened out before the engine goes kablooey. The car: 1987 GL10 Turbo Wagon, 3spd Auto, push button 4WD, no rear cat. Ok, when I first bought the car it had a slight miss to it; ran as well as an N/A car when the turbo spooled( still missed though), but pretty crappy otherwise. I figured fouled plugs.. ya know, tune up should take care of it, after all the guy selling it said the issue had developed after sitting for a few months while he was trying to sell it. So after replacing the water pump it needed I decided to do some routine tune-up things and take car of that darn miss. So I did plugs, wires, cleaned the MAF (hot wire type) but this did not alleviate the problem. A few days later the car started throwing a CEL light at me, and the first night it happened the car suddenly started to fun great, like it should... even though it had the CEL. The proper running lasted for roughly a day and a half until I was on my way to work, car started running bad again (same miss) and the CEL went out. Later in the same day the CEL returned, but alas the car never went back to running ok, just the same consistant miss that causes me to limp up hills @ 15MPH. After replacing all of the smaller dia. vaccum lines on the engine and the broken purge control solenoid with no improvement. The car also began suddenly and for no reason pouring black smoke from the exaust, dying and not wanting to start after, most times it didn't get this bad and I would just have to floor it to start the car when it was warm. I checked the ECU for codes and got a code 21, coolant temp sensor or circut. I pulled the connector for the coolant temp sensor, cleaned off the corosion on the plug, soldered the wire back on my aux. air valve and reset the ECU, no CEL this time. The car idled better (but lower 750?rpm in park, 500? in gear) and didn't need to be floored to start anymore, but yet I still had the same nerve grinding miss. On the advice of FrankB, whose thought was injectors, I pulled the plug wires off one at a time to see if if that would make a difference..... it did, on the passenger side rear cylinder (#3?). So I'm leaning to the miss being a bad injector, or a non firing one.... I haven't been able to check it with a noid light yet, because I do not own one and don't want to pay $20+ for a set for a bunch of others I don't need. Tonight, on top of the cars normal missing it developed another issue, the car runs the same as it always has until you reach around 3/4 to WOT, around there the car starts to stumble and surge, kinda like it's being flooded or maybe starved for fuel (not sure which), if you hold it there the car will slow down to a crawl. The turbo still seems to spool fine, and was really the only thing keeping me able to drive the car, but now since I can't go much past half throttle without the car surging...... it's a bad scene altogether.... this is currently my only drivable car.... so as bad as it's running, I've got to try and drive it, I'm seriously afraid of hurting the engine though. I'm also noticing a lot of gurgling swishing sounds coming from the thermostat/upper rad. hose/rad area after I cut the car off too.... not sure if this is normal with the EA82 or not. Thanks in advance for any help provided, I really need this car to work, as it's my only option at this point.

Wow, didn't know you could get the red stuff anymore, I've always run into it on my 60's hot rods, it seems to go more stiff and brittle (like a garden hose) than the black hoses that get all swolen and mushy. What's going to be a PITA is the clamp @ the firewall, the screw is pointing straight down at the trans.

Exactly. I was a big V8 hotrod cat when I got my first EA81, a that car initally belonged to my mom, it made me a believer in Subaru and more so in the EA81; I drove that car for 3 long years and a hard 50k+ miles with only one oil change. I went thru 4 axels and two clutches (centers broke out of them) in that time span. The car never smoked or burnt oil, I would still have it today if it hadn't suffered electrical failure, but I guess that's what sitting in the snow with no hood will do (not my fault). I ragged that car hard, since then I've had lots more EA81s and have rarely had a problem (I do treat them a little better now), I've also had 2 EA82 cars, first one broke within 3 days of buying it and my current wagon has had a myriad of problems. I would own another, but I will never buy another EA82. For reliability and ease of working on, the EA81 is hard to beat and the EA71 is even better. Go for it!

Thanks, yeah I'll do the bypass........ it's been a long time since I've used that fix, but it works as well now as it did then. Guess these genuine 1987 Fuji hoses finally hit their expiration date, I hate to think which one pops next, my money is on those vintage red ones , don't think they've made those for a while.

no this isn't for an Ea83 car, that would be a typo..... EA82

Well my wagon has been playing weakest link ever since I replaced the water pump, it had new rad hoses but has been popping others since. Tonight it decided to pop the right heater hose and shoot a nice little stream at the disty, since this is my only ride at the moment I was wondering if someone could tell me the size of these heater hoses so I know before I limp my fountain down to the parts store. Thanks!

I think they were hitting the Egg Nog a little hard... ho ho ho.

I'll likely do that eventually, gonna try to rule out the injector first; being that the miss went away for a while I don't think it's a timing or internal issue.

Haha..... "or a 1974 Subaru" That's halarious. Was that their only used car or a leftover.... I wonder... I don't that anyone could write a commercial funnier than that one. That was one sweet sube though, wonder where that one wound up... Bryan, you seem to be killing as much time as I on Youtube lately, it's addictive isn't it?

Well, had to start driving the car today, it does actually run a little better since the coolant temp sensor fix, I also had a chance to pull the plug wires off one at a time, it didn't seem to make a difference when I pulled the #1 plug wire, so I'm going to assume that's where my miss is. So how do I check the injector? I've also seen people talking about using turbo Z injectiors as an upgrade, I have an '83 N/A Z sitting around, could I swap in one from it to check? Sorry for all the basic questions guys, this is my first FI Subaru....I've done a lot of searching the boards and reading but haven't had much luck with finding info to do checks. If you could send me that FSM daeron that would be awesome. Thanks in advance

Yeah that would be great if you'ld send that to me @ dodge440coronut@yahoo.com Well, I soldered the AAV back together, but the top won't stay on, not sure if that makes a difference. I also cleaned the plug for the CTS and after a reset no CEL. The car still runs like poo, maybe even worse than before... will barely move when the turbo isn't spooled, is maybe as quick as an N/A EA82 when it does, but still has the miss. While I had it apart I noticed that the plastic tube going from the turbo to the MAF is cracked in several places at the bottom where it goes onto the turbo, would this be a possible cause for the miss? I've really got to get this thing figured out fast, as I have to start driving this thing everyday starting tomorrow, can't use moms any longer. I'd hate to hurt it worse by driving it, but I don't have any other choice now.

Dave, your wagon is awesome, it's pretty much the only thing keeping me from giving up on mine right now. Looking good, hopefully I can get mine somewhere close in the next decade!