Major Lazy

So I took Caboobaroo's advice and scotchbrited the cylinder walls. I scrubbed it pretty good and there is still big time pitting. sigh live and learn. so I searched the forums and in another totally unrelated post Gloyale said basically at this point I would need to split the case to hone the cylinders, and if its that far may as well do the mains and at that point may as well call CCR and order a motor. While I would love to I just cant lay that kinda green down. So I have one more question: is splitting the case and honing the cylinders a home garage job or is there somewhere that would do this work? look for LSD and silver enkies in the for sale section if not

Well I am a little wary of using scotchbrite, I have heard it will damage bearings. In this case it's OK because it should not get into the oil? I am looking for some advice, here is the story. In Sept. last year the head gasket went. The car sat until early Dec when I started the car and drove it into the garage (Mistake?). Then it sat from Dec until mid Jan when I pulled the head and saw the rust (pics here): http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2012143010101042395UWzkye http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2148649460101042395JreJlG I have not tried to clean the cylinder walls because I fear making things worse. I think splitting the case is beyond my skill level. I am considering a JDM engine I can have delivered for $700. Any other options? I dont want to spend the time/money to put it back together just to have a smoking wreck. Thx.

quote is from the for sale section post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94591 How long does this take and how can you tell if the cylinder walls are no good (I assume thats what would go bad)? I just took the heads off my Rx, it had sat for about 3 mos with a LOT of water in #3 (hydrolocked till i took out the plug). Both the #3 and #1 had water in them and look like crap, with rusty junk on the cylinder walls that mostly wiped off but not totally. #2 and #4 walls looked great. The head gasket sure looked crappy like a piece of toilet paper near those cylinders, it has probably been leaking a while. originally posted in the wrong section.

well I never took the up pipe off but the turbo came off. I cant figure out why the up pipe would have to come off, what am i missing here? The only trouble I foresee is getting it back together, specifically that dang oil line. How does the oil line disconnect from the turbo, it has an odd shallow nut that I cant get a good grip on and am afraid of stripping. What is the little screw w/ an adjustment that the line goes to? On another note the cylinder with the leak (#3) had water in it and looks corroded, the one next to it (#1) looks perfect and shiny, you can see the hone marks still. Do I just wipe #3 off with a rag and call it good or is there something more I should do? Again, thx a million, without everyones help I would be spending like $700 for a JDM motor.

Thanks for all the help. Well, living up to my name I have just gotten back out to the car (spent the holidays drunk and the next few weeks recovering) and got the head off. The biggest pain was the little metal pipe that goes from back of the head to he top of the turbo, is that what the u-pipe is? I actually took the turbo and head off with that connected .. it flexed enough to get the turbo up and off then the turbo and head came off together. Getting it back on may be a different story so if that IS the u- pipe then I suppose I will need to jack the motor up as recommended. So second question is .. should I go ahead and do the drivers side head gasket since I am most of the way there? or just let it be? Thx again, I am way over my skill level here but its fun

Ill sell mine for $499 then. any takers?

I am confused by that somehow, can someone explain? rear disc but drum hand? I had the same thing happen on my impreza a week or so ago, in cold (~15 F) temps the brake light was on. I never use the ebrake so that was not in the equation. I thought it was simply cold & therefore contracted brake fluid that was causing it. I used to have a ford crown vic that the brake light came on in the cold and went away once it warmed up. In that car i added fluid and the light never came on again. I have not checked the impreza yet, too lazy.

How does one remove the passenger side head off a EA82T car .. More specifically how do you remove the bracket that is sandwiched between the turbo and the exhaust pipe that is bolted to the head? There is not enough room to get the bolts out of the head because one of them is actually below the turbo and would push up on it if removed, and they look near impossible to get out otherwise. Do I have to actually remove the turbo? The engine is in the car and I just unbolted the exhaust and left it in place, assuming the head will lift up and out. Thanks, ML

Quick question... Are EA82 and EA82T timing belts and seals the same? need to figure this out before i send Tidd1340 my money.

Wow, Thanks for all the help, I guess I just needed to be able to read It was all right there I just did not understand. Thx for the offer Cab, but I am actually doing the head gaskets so the TB was just the first stumbling block. If thats all it was I would be done by now. I may have more questions posted if any other 'hooked on phonics' issues come up. Thanks to all who answered. ML

I am doing Tbelts on a 87 RX and have a question. This is my first time so I am using a variety of resources (HTKYSA, Miles Fox's website and Haynes). It seems that all are in agreement that when the flywheel and bell housing timing marks 0 degrees line up (Most of the references say that there are 3 flywheel marks, but I have more than that from -20 to 0 to +20 degrees in 2 degree increments), the mark on the passenger cam sprocket should line up with the notch in the belt cover. My car is about 5 notches off of that. The Rotor looks very close to pointing to #1 when the flywheel is at 0 deg. Both cam sprockets appear to be about he same amount off. Of course the drivers sprocket is 180 out of the passengers. Before I take the belts off i want to make sure I know how they need to go back on so the question is: Where should the cam sprocket marks be when the engine is at 0 TDC? Are the sprockets actually 5 teeth off of TDC? The car ran fine when garaged except for the head gasket being blown as indicated by loss of coolant progressively worse until one day it suddenly had no power and the #3 cylinder was full of coolant. Thanks The board came back just in time for me!

tranny fluid was flushed about 90k, new plugs about 120k whats the wierd logic, just asking man

Greets, I searched but did not find and answer so....... Problem: Yesterday my wife calls me while driving in eastern Wa and says the car wont idle, it dies when she stops. The outside temp is over 100 and she has been driving hard with the AC cranked for 2 hrs or so. No CEL light, and when she gets home an hour or so later every thing is fine. She says the guages all looked normal. Question: Isn't there a device that kicks the idle up when the AC is on? could the heat affect that? Is there any chance this could be a Tranny issue? The car has been shifting oddly lately (hard shifts sometimes) Any other ideas? Car = 97 imp auto awd, 140k Thanks a lot. ML

I'ts scary out there, I'll just stay here.

Not to hijack but, is there a thread that details a head gasket job? I searched the engine portion of the USRM and came up short. I am about to do my rx head gaskets and need to be well prepared (only 2nd ever head gasket, 1st sub) thx in advance

My car before I owned it

I get like 19-23 so with a 5 speed, I think your mileage is OK

Les Scwhab (if you dont use them you get your $ back) pretty slow (25 or so, but keep in mind that if its deep enough to need them theres not much faster you could go anyway, just kind of a pain for that little bit till you get to the chain down lane) 10 min or so (after the first time which takes a little more)

Not sure where you plan on skiing but up here (Mt Baker, Stevens pass, Crystal, Snoqualmie pass) its a very very rare day you need more than some good regular tires. Just carry some cable chains for when it gets deep, use them to get up then down to decent wx again. The subie will probably go until your dragging the undercarriage (and a little more actually). Just remember go FAST uphill and SLOOOOW down Dude, your going skiing for goshs sake, chaining up is no big deal

LOL everclear is ethanol btw and pure ethanol is 200 proof.

going bad by causing the brake lights to be constant on. The first one was very warm when I replaced it. I got them at autozone. Unlikely anything was wired wrong since every wire was a unique color and everything works just fine except I keep having the brake light switch fail (well 2 times anyway). It cant be just a coincidence can it??

I need help! I had the exact problem described here, wires were cut at the point they enter the body from the hatch. I fixed that with splices. NOW....I keep ruining the brake light switch (the one at the brake pedal). I have double checked all my splices and they are all good and solid. Any one have any ideas why the brake switch keeps going bad?? I've been through 2 so far and Its driving me nuts. No fuses are blowing

Chris, I used a slide hammer with a 3 pronged gripper, put the castle nut on and pull it through.

none of those symptoms, and I have been looking. Weird thing is, now that I have the water pump hooked back up the water does not surge. hmmm God i love false hope

The coolant oozed out of the radiator CLEARLY in response to the throttle application. revvv....oooze, revv....oooze. And the motor was cool with no chance to warm up, i mean it ran for like 10 sec MAX in 3 separate bursts