Steve W.

You may be rite Ivan, but not there yet.

Hi Josh, thanks. This page surely shows it similar to what I'm readin', tho both my multi meters show reverse polarity if I use the TPS grnd. This is also backwards from both Haynes and Chilton manuals. I'm goin' out now to trace continuity from TPS to eng. loom connectors, and from there to ECU. I show good continuity from TPS to ECU, but wonder if something strange could be goin on in between. Grasping at straws again.. Appreciate your heppin. S.

Hi. Yall. I'm back. Been workin on other projects, and thot some time away from this thing mite clear my mind. I got another throt. switch from the local JY, it had been throwin' that code. In the process of replacing and testing it, I found that in back probing the connector to chassis grnd. things appeared to be ok, but to the TPS grnd. polarity reversed. So, 5V reference voltage, but signal power shows 4.7V throt. closed and .5V wide open, all with reversed polarity. That would account for rich at low rpms and lean under load. Now to figure out why. I checked all my grounds and power sources again and find no problems there. All the other sensors have correct polarity. Another stumper. Ideas? Thanks, Steve.

Thanks Josh, you've all been a great help. I'll get back on it eventually, just totally burned out now. Thanks ya'll again, so much. Steve.

Well, still no gain. I've got another throt. switch, I'll try that next but am loosing faith. At this point it's just sitting in my shop in the way, running out of time and energy. S.

Sorry, how do I move it? Thanks S.

Hi. Folks. Say I have a really clean Spider manifold for sale. Complete w/ all wiring, Injs. sensors, plumbing etc. I cleaned it up real nicely a year ago, to run on my 88 GL 10 T, but now I've done an EJ 22T conversion and it's surplus. I gave $125.00 for it, and would like to get that, plus shipping costs. Reply or PM me, Thanks Steve.

Hey Doug, haven't been by the thread in a while, it's lookin' great. Keep up the good work.. Steve.

Thanks Boys. I've tried a few more things, I replaced the resister I had on the waste gate control circuit with the actual control solenoid, now it throws a waste gate code. Can't win for loosin'. I'll take your advise as gospel Josh, on the stand alone issue, I don't need more power at all, no're more headaches. I'll try the boost control deal Ivan, not a thing to lose. I did find that I've got a loose connection someplace, if I move the ecu. and wiring bundle around while it's idling, it starts runnin' rough and dies. It's throwing a throt. sw. code again and idle sw., if I connect the idle sw. wires (still showing 10v +) while idling it sputters and dies. I'm goin' into the wiring now to see what I can find. I aint' givin' up yet. S.

OK, I'm back out checkin' my wiring again, and probably grasping at straws (what ever that means). My Chilton diagram shows F/P relay, coil, ignitor, and B12, all yellow, powered and fused independantly, hot in run and start. I have those powered from the main relay, with the YRs, hot in run and start. I don't see how that should affect anything, but thot I'd ask. I'm gonna go look some more. S.

Hi. Ivan. Well, lack of boost isn't a problem, I can dial up the controller and make over 20lbs. no effort. Not sure what bypassing the controller would show, but I'm sure willing to try it. Headin' now to see if I can find anything on the electrical side of it. Thanks, S.

Hi. Rob, Thanks. Most of my ducting is a mismatch of Volvo and Saab turbo plumbing. They've had a huge selection over the years. Anytime I pull a turbo at our local J/Y I gather up all the intake, oil and exh. parts I can carry off, keep a big bag of the stuff for projects like this. The two on the cold side are both Ovlov, not sure what year, mid 90s is my guess. The one at the maf. had much larger ribs, ground them down for appearance sake. The other is a 90deg. boot that works really well in these tite spots. I appreciate you ol' timers helpin' me out here. S.

Hi Josh. Your rite, and from threads over at Leg.Cent. I'd determined it's not a good idea. It's on my list of things to change, and not being a tunner kid, I hate the sound of the thing farting all the time. Any thots on where to look for my wiring probs? Guess I'll start running continuity checks again to see if there's something I missed. What kind of stand alone did you switch to? I'm tryin' to sell some parts to raise some cash to upgrade. Thanks, S.

My 88 GL 10 T doesn't make heat for nothin'. It blows and flows clear as can be thru the core, but still doesn't make much heat. I'm thinkin' my problem is air flow thru the core, but still quite a chore to get it out to clear it. I ran across a thread some years ago, where the guy cut the side of the htr. box out with a dremmel to avoid dismanteling the dash. Any thots? S.

Sorry, I just found Presslabs thread. That pretty well covers it.

Come on folks, I'd be interested in this topic. How about the Robtune over at Legacycentral? S.

OK folks. I got my wife to help me get my pics. from Imageshack to here, now I need to figure out how to start an album and build thread. Don't think their in any particular order here, but with some help, should be able to master this process. S. http://imageshack.com/i/0bnnurj http://imageshack.com/i/jm2rmcj http://imageshack.com/i/0lftewj http://imageshack.com/i/nmvyc5j http://imageshack.com/i/0r44roj http://imageshack.com/i/mq7ja3j http://imageshack.com/i/ghkco2j http://imageshack.com/i/mx4yu8j http://imageshack.com/i/0dqd9xj http://imageshack.com/i/nehbzrj http://imageshack.com/i/1nqkguj http://imageshack.com/i/nppm5xj http://imageshack.com/i/nm30qgj http://imageshack.com/i/3u1cabj http://imageshack.com/i/593uxjj http://imageshack.com/i/jt5q1hj http://imageshack.com/i/5npi26j http://imageshack.com/i/mxl8naj http://imageshack.com/i/g45aj2j http://imageshack.com/i/5h0h9pj

Hi. Guys. I'm back at it. Today I pulled the ecu out of my 93 Legacy, (not as hard as I thot it would be) and stuffed in one of the suspect ones. I fired it up, took it for a test drive, it ran ok, not as smooth as with it's own ecu, but enough to tell the tale. Now I'm really frustrated. I've run continuity checks from every sensor connector back to the ecu, and values of every sensor to the manual specs. It seems obvious the prob. is in my wiring someplace, but not sure what to check next. I guess I'll drive it tomorrow and give it a D check, see what codes it throws. If I wasn't such a turbo junkie, I'd wish I'd done the conversion with a NA. Onward and upward.. S.

Hi. Guys. Sorry, havin' to work for a livin. Josh,I finally got around to checking idle sw. voltage, and it shows 0 V. ign. sw. on or off. I've got to run to Colorado for the weekend, when I get back I'll try running one of these ecus. in the Legacy to see what that does. Yall have a good labor day. S.

I ran this very same set up on the EA turbo motor, and it ran cleaner than it did with the stock O2 sender. I ran the stock sender when I first got this EJ running, then put the WB in place. No change. I could try the OE again, but no easy task, it's buried under the IC and heat shields. Thinkin' of switching one of these ecus into the Legacy as Ivan had suggested, time is he issue, too much to do. Thanks guys .

Hi Josh. I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up to the narrow band output, but I'll check it again in the morn.. Your rite, B56-6, (brain fart on the C thing) but my pin out chart shows 4.8 v off, and 0 v on. Spent the whole day workin' on the 93 Leg. SS T, put a rebuild kit in the TDO 4, htr. control cable, etc. Getting ready for colder weather just around the corner, and this is my most dependable ride these days. Appreciate your brain power. S

Nope, Line direct from int. manifold. I checked the map sens. with my vacume hand pump, and it showed to be well within book specs. Still lookin' Thanks.

Hi. guys. Ivan, my O2 sens. is an Inovativemotorsports wideband, and I just today pulled it and recalibrated it. No affect. I really don't think the injectors are sticking or leaking, it runs clean under load till vacume comes up, then goes real rich. I just checked continuity from the map and pres. sol. connectors to the ecu., and ohm and voltage numbers are all within book specs. Do you think adding some sort of venturi in the hose between the maf. and the turbo would help with velocity? Pin B6 on the turbo ecu wire is brown, and for sure it's puttin' out 10V + at the ecu. no mater what, even with the three ecus. I've tried. Again, I think it's something I've done wrong that I'm not finding. I should have kept better notes on all my testing, am sure I'm doing some of this over. Thanks Yall, S.

Not sure what the dimensions are, but it's the o/d of the maf. in a pretty much constant taper to the TDO 4, @ 2" or so. It' s hard for me to see how at 7 or 8 lbs of boost and 3500 rpms or so that it's not flowing enough air for the mafs. to read rite. Still think there's a root problem that I'm not finding. It's runnin' so rich I'm not driving it unless I really have to. I hate to go back & start over. Hasta

Nope, still 23 & 42. I think I've finally got the neut. sw. hooked up. The GL air box isn't a lot different than the EJ, not much room to move the maf., maybe 10 0r 12 " to the turbo. I mite size down the runner to the turbo, run a smaller hose inside the maf. outlet, instead of outside. Don't know much that would speed up incoming air, but some I'd think. Thanks guys.