Mykeys Toy

Just wondering if anyone knows if it goes directly to the battery or does it go to the fusable link box first?

Beautiful Brat!

Re-check your wiring to the hella's. Your ground is on the wrong pin if it is an H4 conversion. If not make sure it is a 4656 bulb and not one of the many other versions that fit the 4x6 buckets. I think the is a diagram on the danielstern website.

OK so I finally crawled around to look for adjustment on the 2wd rear.. NONE. NADA, Zilch. The only way you are going to adjust the rear is by a reclock of the torsion bars.

How did you do the four lug conversion? And the rear should be a torsion bar and may have an adjustment bolt accessable under the rear seat. I am not sure I will take a look and get back to you.. Might be a day or so.

I didn't know that was you! Might have to stop n say hi if I see you. Good luck and will keep you in mind if I do find something. Sorry I did drool a little on your brat.

some on here have cut a coil or two out of the springs. I have contacted Eibach and they can make custom springs for around $300 stiffer and lower if you want. I didn't ask if I could get them progressive rate though which would be nice if just cruising and stiffen when trying to be aggressive.

There is a guy on South Hill/ Canyon area that has an xt that I can see hanging out in his back yard that might take some convincing to get rid of it..Has been there for almost a year if you want to try that.

Any progress?

CL hasn't had much in the way of cheap.. The least expensive I saw yesterday was1k for something that needed a some exterior stuff but clean otherwise.. The wagon in Enumclaw will be for sale for ever since the inside is trashed.

If it is bone dry. Start tracing the line for that part of the car..right front and left rear are ( for lack of better terminology ) on the same circuit. Look for pin holes and check all connections to make sure they are tight..Double check the soft lines..It may still be the master or could be an issue with HH if so equipped. I do not think so though. year and type of car may get you a better response from others that know more. Mike

It is more work but with a newer deck ( non-common ground) run fresh 14AWG wire to each speaker. and replace your speakers. It is much easier to do in a gen3 than my gen2. Or use what you have till you can afford better speakers.

oil leaks are common. Usually they are small leaks from valve covers,oil pump or clogged emissions crud. A weber is a viable option for the carb as tuneability is better mileage is about the same and is cheaper than a reman. I would check compression though just to rule out carb issues with needing that much throttle to floor it to get it moving. IMO

PM sent.

Going back on topic for a thought. I really dislike my barb being louder than my exhaust so... how difficult would it be to make a bolt on remote air cleaner for a weber that will clear an unlifted car. Idasho has a point in his build thread about not liking the gurgling of the weber and without a lift going his route is not viable. The thought was basically modify the top and bottom plate that the weber air filter sits in to make it a two piece bolt together set up and 2.5" tube/ port on the passenger side maybe two smaller tubes into a collector?..It would need to be roughly that size to use off the shelf cold air intake parts. The air box or whatever I can work out. doesn't have to be fancy just workable. Mike

Whoops posted to that thread.. That looks pretty darn nice! Mike

Looks very sharp.. I dig it! Mike

Sure now you say something about this!.. I may have checked that out too while I was down yesterday. Just messing with ya. Mike

Carfreak85 has.. I think I am on his ignore list so can't ask directly.. looking to do something similar in a few months.

Looks like it was a blast! can't wait to get back to my project car instead of the rest of them.

Looking good.. THough I haven't watch any of the vids yet..there are a lot and I dont check out all the build threads.

That is pretty bad@$$. Too bad about the redrill issues though the wheels really set it off.

I need not give my opinion you fellas are clearly beyond me.. I love the idea. Keeping it under $100 would be cool but If you can make it do half of what you want and more later I would pay twice that without a qualm. Subaru especially older ones are so left out it isn't funny there is support fro darn near everything else why not us.. It has to start somewhere. Mike

I wish I could help.. I am a barely functioning back yard mech. I do feel your pain. There are only a handful of people on here that have done anything with the trannies.. GD if he is still on.. I haven't seen him in a while and Idasho I am sure there are more, these are the only two that come to mind now.. Wallaby is right these questions would be more readily answered in the old gen forum. Not everyone checks the build threads.. I do but I like like some of the creative ways you builders get stuff done. Mike

Not for that small of an amp.. Honestly for a 200 watt RMS amp I would be surprised if it drew more than 30 amps at full throttle using 10 awg. If you are going to run more or bigger amps in the future I suggest using a 4 awg amp kit.. Bigger wire = less amp draw on the electrical system. Something else you might consider is the " big 3 " wiring upgrade it will help minimize your light dimming which would be almost non existent with your amp anyway. I have done all this in my brat pushing somewhere around 600 watts continuous at one point and never had dimming issues. Anyway back on topic I do try to use the bigger is better method with car stereo wiring.. Not overkill by any means so maybe 8 awg would work if you are not going to upgrade later. As for speaker wire I never use less than 12 AWG but beware the 12 gauge stuff at many stores is more like 14 .. Shop around a bit amazon, partsexpress or a car audio shop local to you. Running your power wires I run them down the same side as the battery under the carpet and down the trim. RCAs and speaker wire down the opposite side. The important thing for humm or alt whine is to make sure your grounds are good.. From the deck and also with the amp.. That is where 75% of noise is introduced. Fusing your amp as long as your using appropriate power wire 200 watts divided by 13 volts ( car running) = 15.4 amps if my equation is right so you should be able to run a 25 amp fuse. For more info try this http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1