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Mykeys Toy

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Everything posted by Mykeys Toy

  1. Not for that small of an amp.. Honestly for a 200 watt RMS amp I would be surprised if it drew more than 30 amps at full throttle using 10 awg. If you are going to run more or bigger amps in the future I suggest using a 4 awg amp kit.. Bigger wire = less amp draw on the electrical system. Something else you might consider is the " big 3 " wiring upgrade it will help minimize your light dimming which would be almost non existent with your amp anyway. I have done all this in my brat pushing somewhere around 600 watts continuous at one point and never had dimming issues. Anyway back on topic I do try to use the bigger is better method with car stereo wiring.. Not overkill by any means so maybe 8 awg would work if you are not going to upgrade later. As for speaker wire I never use less than 12 AWG but beware the 12 gauge stuff at many stores is more like 14 .. Shop around a bit amazon, partsexpress or a car audio shop local to you. Running your power wires I run them down the same side as the battery under the carpet and down the trim. RCAs and speaker wire down the opposite side. The important thing for humm or alt whine is to make sure your grounds are good.. From the deck and also with the amp.. That is where 75% of noise is introduced. Fusing your amp as long as your using appropriate power wire 200 watts divided by 13 volts ( car running) = 15.4 amps if my equation is right so you should be able to run a 25 amp fuse. For more info try this http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
  2. That really sucks! I hope it was fun right up to that point or did it really take two years to get a tranny in there?
  3. Whoo Hoo! My Boss called and needs me to come back so I just gave up my second week of vacation for Sept 6 and 10 off..4 day weekend here I come!
  4. This sounds a lot like my sedan. It took me a long while to get everything buttoned up. I still want to remove some crap and the car gives me the ECS light a lot just because I didnt unplug the box...didn't know I could.
  5. Axle nut will be 36mm.. I will edit this If I can remember where the pdf link to HTKYSE manual.. It is the gospel for old Subies. Ok so This isn't how I got my digital copy but It should work for you anyway.. I am pretty sure he still has it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137678-how-to-keep-your-subaru-alive-1975-1988-pdf/?hl=%2Bkeep+%2Byour+%2Bsubaru+%2Balive Good luck Mike
  6. all but one of the small ones..you need one for the disty and the big one on the drivers side for the brake booster
  7. I always go to 180 ft lbs. I have gone higher to get the castle nut to line up with pin holes. You can almost not get it too tight.. but do not ever go too loose and beware putting the cone washer in do not put it backwards.
  8. wish I could help.. The stocker the GM and the Maxima alt are only two wire.. I am going to assume you need one of those plugs going to ground the other two are the one to splice into the stock plug.. Someone will be able to accurately answer though.
  9. Agreed.. Punch to remove it, I used a piece of 3/8 brass rod to seat them just to be sure I didn't bugger it up.. Take s a bit to fully seat but easy enough.
  10. Why do you torture me so! Looks a lot like mine without the rust on the hood front fenders and trunk lid.
  11. Don't forget the vacuum caps..other than that looks good so far
  12. If you still don't have it going tomorrow.. I will see what I can do. I am not (Good with webers) but I did do my own and it isn't really that bad.. Only a few things that stumped me and that was just me making more difficult than necessary. I do not have the linkage kit though for the throttle. I think yours mounts to the weber filter plate bolts. Mine was a modified factory bracket that I straightened and moved over a little.
  13. ( hopefully Ill find a better job in a few months that will allow me to keep Ned ) Good luck with the job hunt.. I love that car.. It must be a sedan thing for me. keep up the good work. have you figured out where he is leaking from or is he burning oil?
  14. Thats what I have. Had to mod the tubing for the larger diameter muffler though.. I can't hear it over the weber.. I might like it better if I could silence the carb.
  15. Holy smoke batman. Haven't seen you on here in a while.. I think you were putting the PRS speakers in your car. Already cleaned the contacts with help from Turbone while trying to figure it out last summer.
  16. Voltage and fuel level. on a late 82 early 83 sedan. Funny how both of them are on the left and both work when they want to, which is seldom. Is there a seperate ground for these two? or should I be looking for a broken contact on the circuit board? I will take any ideas thrown out and work them till I have a fully functional dash... It has become so irritating I am ready to pay a shop to make it happen...just not yet.
  17. I found something to simplify headlight circuit after doing the other stuff linky below http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-4-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUG-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-4x6-/370645421425?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1983%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.8L&hash=item564c304d71&vxp=mtr
  18. What he said^^^ Then start looking at your soft lines at the calipers make sure there isn't a pin hole somewhere. It could still be the master.. Could also be a dying HH if so equipped. There are a few things in various shop manuals Chitons/Haynes that may help you diagnose you problem or eliminate specific parts.. More info may help such as year and model of your car.
  19. Try all of the above first starting with the easy and cheap. The Big3 helps a bit with a stock alt (I am not running stock).. The headlight circuit really is pretty easy just time consuming and very worth it..I was with stock alt getting barely 12 volts with the car running.
  20. It cant be! If Bumblebeast were beating up Hondas for the springs then it would be a decepticon! I cannot believe Jeszek would have one of those in his driveway.
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