Mykeys Toy

Well I will start with Saturday which was to replace Rad and get my fan working off new switch instead of always on.. Yesterday started replacing Exhaust gasket and made a serious mess of things.. Stripped threads.. Today I have at least a temporary fix on the exhaust time will tell.. Thanx Turbone for your Subi Jedi powers.

did you get air in the master cylinder? could e a pin hole in one of the soft lines. I have a similar problem with my sedan and did have to replace my master so I probably do still have air in the system I just can't find it.

steel vs aluminum and lock tabs..thanks now to find time.

Go back to June or something in the for sale thread I believe there is a pic from crawlerdan selling his Allied wheels. They are well built and heavy duty. They were made for offroad vehicles.

This should be in one of the tech. forums and a mod will probably move it for you. What year and model do you have? It's important for anyone to be able to help you out. My first thought is that your tranny is just bound up but that would thought only works for a full time 4wd. for a part time tranny I haven't a clue sorry.

no. you need the outter part of the axle to hold everyting on the front together. If you do that then yes you can run in 4wd to get where ever. I know a few people that have done it for years because its fun. ( Psycho ).

Title says it all how do you tell if there are no stickers on the valve covers for whatever reason? what would I be looking for with the covers off that would indicate such. Revision My 82/83 sedan is the noisiest engine in a sube I have ever had. I thought to adjust the valves but you don't adjust Hyd lifter motors and there are no stickers on the valve covers. I just dont want to screw it up by adjusting something not meant to be adjusted.

I agree however there are a few places around here that carry a lot of stuff for 4 wheelers that tend to carry assorted studs and any type of nut that you could want to go with them. Its just an idea so If you can get one out you might try that if there is one semi local.

If you dont mind ruining some cheap extension there is a dimple on the end of the axle on the wheel side. BFH the extension into the dimple should not take much but sometimes... The wheel should then pull off unbolt the caliper and tie it off so it is not dangling by the line. This is usually where you would need to remove the strut and probably the ball joint and possible the outter tie rod end so the knuckle can pull off the axle completely. it is not ideal i know but I have had some seriously tight fitting axles a time or two and was forced to go this route. I know this is not where your problem is but If nothing else is working and you dont want to disassemble the DOJ that"s the best I can come up with. Mike

rally tires would work also but snows are cheaper.. beware though snow tires also have very soft sidewalls and may be prone to cuts and puncture

The o2 could do it but more than likely it is maf related.

If it doesn't have trans cooler lines then yea it is probably stock or was picked up from a junk yard. I am right there with you on the new one. My hatch has less than 1000 miles on new HGs and warms up a little too much on the highway and gets hot on any hills and mine aren't even close to Whitebird. Once that is done I finally get to move on to the other car whoo hoo. Mike

Have a shop flow test the Rad. Or maybe look into something like a three core. I have been on whitebird and you are right, it is no joke. The only other things I can think of is maybe your HGs aren't up to par and maybe leaking or maybe its just too much for the poor motor.

could it be a sticky choke or maybe choke not staying closed like it should?

This all sounds horribly familiar. I had been fighting this for a week or two when we finally decided to pop the valve covers ff and check. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124901 Hope that solves it for you.

1983 gl sedan 1bbl carb. Won't start when its cold outside. Like anything under 65, but has no problems when I get home from work and has warmed up. I can get it to run but will only stay running 1 time and that is for 2 minutes or less. Then I will be lucky if It does anything.

Finally got to compression test yesterday. cyl 1 and 3 were right where they should at a lil over 125#. 2 and 4 had 30 and 65ish #. Turned out to be the freakin valve lash. That neither of us checked after getting the heads back from the shop. So after all that and a little bit of weber retuning runs like a top and is nice n quiet. The only thing anyone could hear when I ran it around the block was the weber sucking air as I mashed the pedal. SO all is good now just need to clean up a few connections and get her tabbed. Ed and GD Thanks for the help and tips as well as some ideas on where to start looking to make things right or better.

There have been a few though most were 3/4 inch and some 2/3 but not in a long while and that was for the leveled out ride. You will have to talk to Scott or Bill or one of the other lift MFGs to see what they can do or what they think. Personally for my purposes I like the barely lifted mostly because I am not a serious offroader. I just want a capable camping rig that I can go play in the mud with also. So if you do find pics post em.

OK a few more things down. tried everything in my power to see if I could make it run right. cap,rotor, coil,plugs and wires. Nothing. The old plugs were carbon fouled (too much Gas) So after a few hours of confusion I called a friend down. He was darn near as confused as me. So today after work will do compression test first just to rule that out then check valve lash. beyond that I am out of ideas.

Started messing around with it after work and tried to get an arc around the plug side of the wire and has plenty of juice. tried swapping for some older wires and still nothing.. I will see about some new plugs tomorrow and try again.

We have a winner! not one but at least two and both on the same side. Its a miracle the darn thing ran at all.

The best way to know for sure is to look at the rear diff of the donor car, it will have a tag with gear ratio 3.7, 3.9.

sure there is.. All mine look just like this except for the one with a bad oes sender. This is taken from under the bumper looking up.

you will need to remove the old sender and use that location. If you have an idiot light in that spot I think there is something else you must do also but for the life of me I cannot remember what it was if there was anyway.

There is a post from OneEye in the offroad section about the tube extensions to extend the strut from the top. It looks fairly easy and thats what he wheels with so strength isn't an issue.