Mykeys Toy

I totally forgot about push buttons being only single range. I will now go back to my corner and be a spectator. And maybe munch on some humble pie.

There are both kinds. The preferred tranny is manual/mechanical. But there is also a push button which I think is electric and would need the solenoids and such.( I honestly cannot say beyond that as I do not have either kind ) As far as bolting up both will without any problems. Mike

Hey! I resemble that remark:grin:. It isn't for a lack of trying just not enough experience/understanding. Being able to read a schematic would be hugely beneficial

That was a good read and has got my interest.. But I am not so inclined to go into all the mechanics of it.. Love the idea but if I tried the car would neve move again. Soooo I will just have to watch n see how this turns out. Mike

So long as there is a build thread and lots of pics I will be happy either way:grin:

if you divide the difference by 2 should be about .62" closer to the fenders.

165 65 13 is 21.4" OD on tirerack but its a bridgstone. 175 70 13 is between 22.5- 22.7 same source different tires so a minimum of 1.25" difference. Mike

We will forgive you this year. But next year take the appropriate time off and drive your sube It woulda been cheaper anyway. Mike

Local shop or http://www.thepartsbin.com/ http://www.rockauto.com/ Mike

True but I think with may not fit in a gen 3 without mods using 2.5 heads.

it could be simply worn struts or the springs are shot.. Check the tires on the 90 RS and see how they have they have worn. The engine should technically be the same only the tranny should really change with a 4wd swap and possibly the gas tank and brakes. If that is the case then you could do the 4x swap first then find the applicable parts for EFI later intake n wiring etc. I am planning to do something similar with my 83 GL and as far as the front goes it is basically the same as 4wd just different struts and spring rate. Already swapped the spring and improved driveability dramatically. Mike

Only for the camping portion.. Most of the registration is about your sube and the goody bag you get. everything else is optional or has been in the past. Mike

Very nice explanation GD! There is another option in using the GM alt.. It is rediculously easy and probably less time consuming than the Nissan but if Rick is doing them spend the money and get it done. BTW the GM alt really needs a different pully on it. At an idle everything dims even without the stereo on. @ cruise It never had power problems and was running close to 1500 watts of stereo constantly.. OK not really but I have been known to crank it for somewhat extended periods.. With that much power the extra 10 amps helps a lot. I have both and like each for what they are. For a daily without too many goodies I would go Nissan for major power suckers I would use the GM. Mike

Maybe this is useless to most of you but I thought it was handy so here ya go. http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/SubaruPaintCodes

Chances are If the hub part with splines does not look the same it will not fit. Local yard will have them pretty inexpensive.

Wow a little harsh for something that a puppy pad would have taken care of For the movie I would say the Breakfast Club Mike

Chux the thing is to look into "mech-less" some are not as shallow as the Dual however if you can find the dims that will help. Asid from all of that there are adapters if you dont mind cutting you console. I feel that though useful they are fugly. I see them frequently on Ebay and I have also done the wooden version (DIY) but that was merely functional and nothing more. Here are a few more options. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/products/74/In-Dash_Receivers/Digital_Media_Receivers_%28Mech-Less%29.aspx Mike

and thought I would share.. Maybe one of the more technical types can play with it.. maybe when I have enough parts laying around a spring rate calculator will be handy. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pstech9.htm

It did, just not very far!

darn.. We just had to skip that yard on the way back home.

Easy fix but could ruin your budget a bit if you count the ones that arent loud enough also.. watch for the sensitivity I would say anything over 92 db should be plenty unless I simply do not understand how noisy your hatch really is.

Just outta curiosity have you got it all together yet GD?

I could live with that. I expect that in order to be lower you'd have to go larger exhaust.

Um yeah. the motor is stock but nothing else is who are you kidding.

maybe so, but if you are going to put that much time and effort into the suspension and probably a fair bit of money also. I should think you would spring for some ole custom pug wheels that you can put decent rubber on. Sorry I just had my ornery moment for the week. Mike