Mykeys Toy

You get what you pay for with sound deadening. On the other hand when you go to apply it most caraudio guy will use at least two layers. That will cost you at least $200 with Dynamat. This is what I use http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm It comes out to like 125 shipped.

The wait is over. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=191

Sorry guys I dropped the ball. I will try to get the pic up anyway for the ones that don't have a mysterious (fixed itself) noise.

Oil pressure guage?

There is a resistor nesxt to the coil that if removed or goes bad will cause that kind of interference. It has one small black wire and the screw that grounds it.

The SN on the back would be cool thought I can do without.. Now to see if I can get a day or two off for this one or I'll be at home thinking about all the fun I am missing again.

are you using the stock tire size?

With the ridge that deep I would replace both just to make sure you don't have further problems. They cost me $20 for both at a specialized sube shop might e more at a dealer though.

You are looking for an ea82 turbo or gl-10 car including XT but not the XT-6 And you need everything.. rotor calipers backing plate and (I think but am not positive) The bake line Might be one of those cut it off 6 inch away things and crimp it to keep out contaminates.

After all the advise given here for my squeak noise.. turns out it was in part the axle nut. The issue turns out that the hub where the cone washer sits was worn badly and scored. The cone washer went in too far not allowing me to seat the axle firmly enough regardless of how hard I torqued the nut.. So My poor brat lost its hub to a running car. And a new set of axles washers ( cone and tapered) got it all going. I will retorque it this weekend to make sure. I hope I don't have to deal with that again anytime soon. BTW for you online shoppers of OEM parts the washer part numbers are 623024020 I think that was the cone, and 623204080 for the other.

With only one speaker making noise It sounds to me like there is a power or ground wire running too close to the speaker or the speaker wire somewere. It is highly likely that if there is a power/ground wire that it isrunning directly from the battery and at least 10 AWG and needs to be moved closer to the center of the car. If not then I agree with the above that there is something wrong with the factory radio. Whatever happens when you put aftermarket speakers in an old sube you need to run new speaker wire because they don't work properly on common ground so you will need six that.. It is possible that that the stock speaker leads are causing this problem being common ground.

when you had the fron passenger side off did the cone washer or the hub assembly have a dark reddish residue on them? if so try replacing the cone washer and swapping out the hub with one that has less wear and good splines. Then re-torque the axle nut.

http://paeco.com/

I second the super clean though I never tried to rinse it off, usually just runs off without anything extra.. I do still have a ways to go for shiny but at leaest I can see the block now.

If it is occasionally just a click check the voltage at the battery if its good there then its the solenoid.

Ya it does vary with speed.. And had thought about the brakes but I have just did a brake job when I did the knuckle. The problematic side looks like it may be closer to the fender than the drivers side maybe by an inch. Does that help narrow down the possibilities?

Coming from passenger side front tire on 86 ea81 hatch. I have replaced the bearings in the last year and yes they were seated. I have tried lowering the suspension back down a bit ( ok as far as I can get it to go which looks to be about halfway) I have robbed the steering knuckle off off of my poor Brat whos only crime was needing a new heart.. The steering knuckle helped a lot as far as the noise went and that was 3 months ago.. Now the noise is back. It is not noticable to me while on the gas. It is noticable when letting off and very bad when turning left any amount at any speed. The only things I can think of that I havent tried swapping out are the strut assemblies with the springs and the tranny. Bring in the Sube Gurus.

Yes an EA81 will fit, but why put a motor with less power in it?

I decided to drop in on Puyallup Subaru and the parts guy told me thay can't get the switch.. He thinks they may not make them anymore. I really disliked the results of trying an aftermarket a few years ago, especially when they are $40 a shot.

OK checked the wire asap.. and it is connected. The engine doesn't seem to be making any noise like there is a lack of oil pressure, so I don't think that is the problem. I will try a different sending unit first and see where it goes.

Any one have a place to start tracking down the gremlin or is it just done? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9439&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Finally got everything in, but called it a night when I used the stock hose clamp and it didn't quite go far enough to one side for a proper seal.. got a small leak. So hopefully tonight I will get it all buttoned up.

check your spark plugs..

Thank you! At least I haven't lost all my mind.. Mick you wanna add that little exerpt into the manual for dipsticks like me that don't know there way around a subie yet?

I decided to take the rest of the night off after I couldn't get the core to line up with HCV. The core is firmly in place but I can't quite get them just so.. The ends are overlapping and am a little afraid to try to bend the fittings to get them right and i think they won't be aligned if I do. I will post a pic This afternoon while screwing with it some more.