themoneypit

Nope, thats not it. It looked identical to the one I took off (t stat on the bottom not the front) only an extra nipple pointing towards the front of the car. that shows both nipples coming out the side.

i dunno... i ordered a gates timing belt component kit w/water pump from rock auto. it listed 2, one for automatic, one for standard trans. mines automatic, and thats the one i ordered, and it had an extra bypass nipple?? it came straight out towards the front of the car. mine has only the one that comes out towards the drivers side above the lower hose. i got the right pump, and its all back together now and good to go.

it was lined up using the dashes, not the arrows. like i said, ive done these before, i just never had them jump on me like this one did. thanks thou

PHEW!! thanks, thats good to hear. yes i lined everything up before i started the removal. so i will just line the cams up again and get it back together. i got the wrong waterpump too, my car is automatic, i ordered the kit for automatic, but theres 2 bypass hose nipples, and my car only has one. so im stuck till friday when i can get the right pump and get it back together. guess ill just eat lots of turkey tomorrow and worry about it on friday morning thanks again!

first off, HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!! so, i started to do the timing belt on my 02 impreza outback today. 2.5 sohc. i aligned all the timing marks as per the manual. i removed the 1st idler pulley as the manual stated. removed the second pulley per the manual, and both cam sprockets flung out of time WTF. so, the manual says nothing about how to re-align everything if this happens. i dont know how far they went, which way, etc. i wasnt expecting that to happen. ive done several in the past and the cams never sprung off like that on me before. HELP PLEASE!!

i did the opposite, swapped out my 00 2.5 for a 00 2.2 and had to swap out the intake, left cam sprocket, crank sprocket, and front y-pipe. so for you to put a phase II 2.5 into the impreza it would be the same thing (using the above listed parts from your 2.2 on a 2.5). i had no problem finding the 2.2 thou. first yard i called had one. maybe i got lucky? either way my outback runs perfect now and was a simple straight forward swap. motor cost me 850 with 115k on it, and 50 for the y-pipe.

i have an 89 rx that im prob gonna be parting out. ill take a look and see if it has factory or dealer installed a/c. if you need any parts, let me know.

ok awesome, ill check that out tomorrow! also, there is a pretty good exhaust leak in the front pipe, ill have to look into that as well and see if it can be welded. thanks!

got alot done today. changed 3 rotted brake lines, a couple leaky fuel lines, and took it for a ride. i dont think the turbo is spooling up. the light doesnt come on on the dash, and no boost when in the throttle, so is there any way to test a turbo? can it be seized up from sitting? a spare came with it, i dont know what condition that one is in either.

yeah im pretty excited about it. i hope to get going on the brake lines soon. im also hoping i can weld up the leaky front pipe to quiet it down some. theres a new t-stat and gasket (oem) that came with it, so i will get that done with all the hoses and flush as well. ive got a busy weekend coming up, so not sure how much ill get done, but im not in a huge rush since winter is still a few months away. just knowing it runs makes me happy (i am dying to road test it though).

heres a few pics. its got the turbine wheels (5 of them) with center caps, so thats a score!! plus came with 2 other sets (one of them snows on rims)

well it runs!! i turned the motor over by hand, and all was free. so i put a fresh battery in it, turned the key on, and listened for the fuel pump to prime. instead, it was squirting gas out onto the trailer LOL. i know thats common for them to rot out when sitting, so i pulled one from the shelf for my xt6, swapped it into it, and tried again. this time it primed without leaking, so i cranked it over, and it fired right up. WOOHOO exhaust front pipe has a leak, no big deal, and it actually ran pretty good considering its got 3 year old (atleast) gas in it. i stepped on the brake, and sure enough its got a few lines that are rotted, so i cant attempt to drive it just yet. lines are cheap enough, so if i can get the brakes to work, and take it for a spin, ill decide what im going to do from there. i did bleed the cooling system while it was running, and at idle it didnt show any signs of getting hot. someone removed the a/c (parts are in the trunk), including the secondary fan, so ill get that fan back on and probably wire it to a toggle switch. its got some rust, but still somewhat solid. would def make for an awesome winter crasher, even thou i dont need ANOTHER one LOL (ive got my 05 baja turbo and 00 outback sedan for winter). but it wouldnt cost me much to put plates on it and run it, so who knows... next step will be to get the brakes working, and wire up that secondary fan, and take it for a spin. ill know better then what im going to do with it.

ok will do. any chance you have the part numbers for the bypass hoses and stuff? isnt there one under the turbo that is a MF to do? if they are the same hoses that an xt-turbo would use, then i have a parts manual for that and can look them up myself. or if someone has a parts manual for an rx, or a link to one, that would work to.

89 RX ea82t f/t4wd 5spd hi-lo range. i picked it up tonight (thanks craig), and its been sitting not started for a few years. i know these are finicky motors, with love/hate relationships, but its the first ea82t ive owned. is there anything i should do before i put a battery in it and try and start it? other than obviously checking all the fluids and putting fresh oil in it. P/O said it ran good before it was parked, and was taken off the road to do t-belts and stuff, never got around to it, and it just sat. im not looking to spend a ton of money on it, and theres a box in the trunk with some new filters and stuff. ive read about the cooling systems, so if i get it running ill spring for a new radiator and some hoses. im hoping to end up with a good winter runner, and down the road use some stuff on my xt6. thanks in advance

another option (and usually cheaper) is to do a 2.2l swap. theres tons of info o here, and those arent prone to hg failure like the 2.5l. if your car has egr, make sure the donor engine does too!! 95w/egr is a direct plug and play swap. 96-99 you would need the front y-pipe single port exhaust manifold, and otherwise is also plug and play. ive seen way to many of the 2.5s have repeat failures, thats why i always go this route... if you decide to fix it, take the advice here and have a subaru specialist do the job!! ive heard of prices from 1500-2500 for a hg job. a 2.2 should cost less than 1000 from a j/y, and a shop should be able to swap the engine in 5 hours or less. so IF labor was 100/hr, plus 1000 for an engine, you'd be on the lower end of cost for a hg job, but end up with a MUCH more reliable engine that will run 300k miles.

if its just a slight oil leak from them, dont worry about it. add the subaru coolant conditioner to the coolant, and that should keep them from starting to leak coolant. just check your oil when u fill up and keep it full. if its not overheating, then you should be fine for awhile. if/when you do them, be sure to use oem subaru gaskets, not the cheap aftermarket stuff. there is one aftermarket company that makes a comparable (maybe better) gasket, but i cant remember the name off the top of my head.

seeing as you tuned it up at the same time, thats why im saying you gotta rule out one or the other. ive put new defective parts on several times... sucks, but happens. could be something with the cap/rotor/wires, or could be an issue still with the carb. you need to rule one or the other out before you just start throwing parts at it.

hard to tell from the video, but it almost seems like its skipping... ive seen coils go bad only when the car is hot. could swap that out quick/cheap to see if that helps. ive got spares from an xt6, not sure if they are the same or not. otherwise, put an inline spark tester on one of the plugs and see if the spark is sporadic when this is happening, that would rule out the carb if spark is the issue, and vice-versa. your sure that abortion of vacuum lines are hooked up right?? ive got an inline spark tester, i can take a look at it and try and help ya out. i might have some time on monday.

is the valve at the end of the air cleaner box working? that shuts out fresh air and sucks from the exhaust when cold to help warm it up quicker. if its not working and thats staying closed, that could be your problem. just pull that air line off, look into the end of the air cleaner tube and the valve should open up. then just plug that air line and forget about it...

yup, thats the house. white xt6's were mine, white hatch used to be mine, and is actually going up for sale soon, cux my buddy with the hatch just bought my other xt6. the red hatch you saw was a parts car, my former plow car, that just went to the scrap yard last week. it went to fuscos, so if you need anything, im not sure if they crushed it yet or not. you know anyone insterested in that hatch? he is asking $1500 for it. new clutch, radiator, full tune up in the last 6 months. has ice cold a/c also. going to post it up in the for sale section as soon as he gets me a few pictures of it. OH!! BTW, i have a set of new chrome trim rings that will fit those wagon wheels if your interested. i paid $50 for the set when i bought it. heres the red hatch u saw, and an old pic of the white hatch when i owned it. it also has my first silver xt6.

ah, yeah theres not many down your way. i live in watertown, theres a couple here, and a ton in waterbury. i do have glass coverage, but ill be getting paid for the repair from the other guys insurance co. so, im pretty sure that would be ins fraud if i got paid from his, then had mine replace it... it did cross my mind thou LOL.