themoneypit

where do you go for emissions?? im also from watertown ct and have brought a loyale with the check engine light on to montambalts on thomaston ave for emmissions and it passed no problem. they didnt even mention the light being on... ironically, i also did this exact same swap that your talking about. 97 OBW 2.5 w/egr and installed a 2.2 out of a 96 lego w/o egr. i brought mine thru emissions with the 2.5 with bad headgaskets and it passed. havent had to bring it thru yet with this setup. i wonder if you paid the 20 bux if they would test it even thou it wasnt due for testing yet.. just to see if it would pass??

well pick one up and put it in the glove box... im sure the used long block will end up doing it at some point too.... thats why i went the 2.2l route. i was tempted to buy a used 2.5, but figured its russian roulette.... take a few H/P loss for more reliability and im all over that like white on rice

when i did mine, i started w/eng cold. turned heat on high, ran up to temp and got all air bubbles out. installed cap, left lever open, made sure overflow tank was at proper level and worked great. i checked fluid every week and had to ad a little once in awhile. but was better than the random overheats it would do before...

on these phase I 2.5s, when the HG's go bad, and the exhaust is going into the coolant. you can buy a stant lev-r rad cap from the parts store. install it and leave the lever up. this allows the exhaust gas to burp easier into the overflow tank, but not the coolant. the car will run fine, and you wont notice any difference. i drove my 97 OBW for 4k miles this way before finding a 2.2l to swap into it. if you go this route, just make sure when you put the cap on that the lever is facing the battery when tight, or the hood will not clear the lever, and will actually close the lever. cheap and easy temporary fix if you cant afford to do the job right away, or if its your only means of transportation....

actually gary, the xt6 design is the only subaru ive ever seen with a setup like that... and it does suck. most other subies have them on the hood. actually every other subaru that i can think of, or have owned have them on the hood now that i think about it.

+1 here.. but crack all four windows an inch or so and let it run for awhile in the driveway with the heat on full blast. that should help evaporate any excessive moisture.. also, is this a wagon or sedan?? check where the spare tire is and see if its full of water/ice. you may have a leak in the back somewhere that causes water to stay in the car. had it happen on one of mine years ago... it was a leaky taillight in a sedan that caused the water to get in the rear compartments in the floor..

if it is post up the part number for the kit... mine is leaking, was thinking about buying an ebay rebuilt, but may go this route and see how hard it is to do.. im always up for a challenge

youll need a fitting thatll screw onto the top of the front struts. and a tire valve that will screw into that. basically, take the shorter front air hose off (solenoid to strut top) and bring it with you to a hardware store and ask them for help, tell them what you want to do and im sure they can figure it out. better to go to a true value or somewhere like that rather than a home cheapo, or lowes i think youll have better luck.

if you took one of the solenoids apart and it didnt move freely, then i would suggest changing out both of the fronts, and the computer from miles if its not too expensive. then take one of the o-rings to a hardware store or auto parts store and buy atleast 2 dozen of them and start replacing them at each connection, but especially the ones that currently leak. but before you go buying new parts and such, air the struts up manually with an air tank or air compressor if you have one and see if they will hold air at minimum overnight. if they dont, then its not worth fixing the system if the struts themselves are bad. to buy the couple of fittings to do this will only cost a couple dollars. my xt is parked for the winter for the most part, and it sits in the garage for months at a time and doesnt lose any air in the struts. i start it ocassionally and will run it around the block here and there, but it stays level and full of air in the interim.

too bad.... i have a brand new oem subaru tank and oem subaru sending unit for a hatchback...

didnt see that one when i searched... my kit off ebay was an exedy clutch (supposedly) and was 145 shipped.. i may just deal for now, as i really dont want to take the whole thing apart again. is it possible thou, that the people who turned the flywheel f---ed it up?? it seemed good, but you cant really tell by looking. what a PITA really. guess i shouldve known better and gotten one from somewhere local that i could have it warranteed. they all wanted 225+ for kits at local auto parts stores.

dont give up yet. i agree with gary that the ride is far superior with air ride, and when working correctly its def a cool option. my 88 has it and knock on wood it works perfectly. for the cost of a couple dozen o-rings, and a little elbow grease, its def worth trying to figure out whats up with it. worst case, if one needs to be replaced (which can cause the whole system not to air up), im sure you can find a used one either on here or subaruxt.com. new ones run around 300 or so. i know because i replaced both rears on mine, because the p/o replaced both fronts shortly before i bought it. another option you can do is to go to the local hardware store and get fittings that will screw onto the struts with tire valves and air them up manually. the fronts are easier to do than the backs, but you can atleast see if the fronts will hold air overnight, or while driving, and know if those two are good. on my last 6, an 89, the system would air up, but when driving it the right front would air up to the moon causing the left rear to not air up. in that case, i would park the car in the garage, or somewhere perfectly level, let the system air up until it was level and the system shut off (with no light blinking on the dash) then shut the car off, unplug each solenoid and unplug the relay up front. the car would hold that way for months with no problem. every 3-4 months id have to plug the relay and solenoids back in and do the same thing. still had the nice comfy air ride, but it wouldnt auto adjust obviously. the car was starting to rust, so it wasnt worth replacing the struts at 300+ a pop. however my 88 was from california, a one owner, and super clean. so i didnt mind springing for new ones for that one. keep us posted on symtoms and such that you find and hopefully we can get you up and running here with these.

i have an 88 xt6 (and have had several others as well) try jacking the car up in the rear as those are supposed to fill first the way the system is designed. have the compressor running and lower the jack quickly say half way and stop it again. sometimes they need a jolt like that to get them to start working again. there is a computer underneath the drivers seat that usually does not go bad especially if its rust free. seeing as you have no idea how long its been flat, try giving them a jolt. or even get the compressor running and drive it around the block and hit a few bumps. sometimes thatll get them to inflate as well. problem is, once you start having problems with the system, it almost is a guaranty that itll always give you problems. when the compressor is running, is it pumping air into the system?? it could be a leak somewhere in the system that prevents it from airing up as well. theres o-rings at each fitting that should be replaced and on the fronts where it screws into the strut theres an oring that should be seated in the top of the strut. while its running, walk around the car and see if you can hear air leaking anywhere.

will one from a hatchback work?? from an 84 gl hatch??

recently completed my 2.2l swap into my 97 OBW. it has a hydraulic clutch. i replaced clutch disk, pressure plate, release and pilot bearings. i also had the flywheel turned. after completion, i have a chatter starting off in first gear. shifts fine all other gears. kind of pissing me off and wondering why. was hoping it just needed to wear in, but after several hundred miles, still doing it. it never chattered before the replacement, but was VERY tight compared to now. its like butter now. any ideas/suggestions are appreciated. oh and BTW it was a complete clutch kit bought off ebay, supposedly an eaton brand kit.

i dont care about the CEL being on, my question was should i have omitted the evap canister?? or should my one vac. line that is on the 2.2 be hooked to the evap canister and not the solenoids on the pass. side fender??

try all the above, and dont forget to punch your buddy in the mouth for making you go thru this aggravation.... :lol: i mean come on, what kind of idiot would step on the brake while there all apart??

ok, so i completed my swap on my 97 obw 5spd manual to a 2.2 non egr motor. couple questions thou... 1st the car runs great with the 2.2, but i get the previously stated egr code, and i also get a evap canister code. once, the day after the swap, the car wouldnt start.. just cranked and cranked (after i had it running and driven it after the swap) i had just filled the gas tank, and it wouldnt start afterwards while sitting at the pump. about 10 min later, after looking around under the hood and finding nothing, it started up no problem thou. on the 2.2, there was only 1 vacuum line to hook up, on the fender well of my obw there are 2 sensors, that the 2.5 had 2 vac lines going to them. the only line on the 2.2 i hooked to that sensor, and plugged the opening on the other. as far as the evap canister is concerned, there is nothing to hook to that. unless the vac line i have on the 2.2 should go to the evap canister instead... i know gary has done this same swap, curious if he remembers?? or, does a non egr motor not use the evap canister?? just curious if anyone may know the answer here... the only reason i hooked it to that sensor is because it was the perfect length hose, and just seemed to go there.. i wish i didnt junk the donor car b4 i completed the swap, but my buddy whose garage we used didnt want the thing hanging around in the interim.

which wires on the main harness do you use to splice it in?? colors, etc... or a pic would be even better

i didnt even know there was a heater on these pumps. is it built in to the unit? if its built in, yours probably kicks in on its own when it needs it gary. ive had these apart to change brushes in them and stuff, never noticed a heater of any kind thou.... more info please

yeah i found it... under passenger side carpet.. it tried to search, but "ECU" is too short for the search requirements... like an idiot, i forgot to get the one out of the 2.2l donor car b4 i scrapped it. i went there today, they said they already crushed it and sent it out on a truck so, using the stock computer in my 97 OBW for this 2.2l w/o egr swap, can i still ground out the wire that controls the egr and avoid a CEL gary?? the OBW is a 5spd AWD car. let me know please. my buddy rushed me thru stripping it and getting rid of it since it was at his house.. i dont blame him, prob shouldnt have been pounding down beers while doing it, idve remembered then

where is it? i looked under the steering column, and didnt see it. thats where all the other subarus ive owned (except the xt's) were.. wondering where the thing is located on this car

yep, picked it up today.. looks like a much better design. $31 for the plate and 8 screws (yes 1 has loctite or something on it). now i just need my timing belt and stuff to get here so we can get this swap started.

my sister had one installed on her 5spd mazda protege. she had to sign a waiver of liabilty with the shop that installed it.. she also had to do a number of things in a sequence before shutting the car off in order to for the remote start to work the next morning. i had a friend that put one in a standard firebird on his own, his kid started playing with his keys one day, and the car started up and drove thru his garage... so i can def see the liability issues for them. damn kids lol

its carb. its the old style hatch 80-88 style. 4spd d/r 4wd.